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rock_fencer
Jan 30, 2009, 3:17 AM
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Hi all, im feeling generally lazy after not climbing for almost 5 weeks.
I am looking for moderate multipitch trad anywhere in the 5.9-5.11 range for a week split between Red Rocks and Zion.
If you have any climbs that really strike you as beautiful and arent going to be a highway i would like to hear about them. Adventure climbing is great.
Cheers
T
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Durin
Jan 30, 2009, 7:29 AM
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I'll be spending 4 days in red rocks in March, I was thinking Epinephrine and Black Orpheus:
http://mountainproject.com/v/nevada/red_rock/black_velvet_canyon/105732422
http://mountainproject.com/v/nevada/red_rock/oak_creek_canyon/105732809
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rock_fencer
Jan 31, 2009, 5:31 AM
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thanks for the reply. epinephrine isnt my cup of tee. something about chimneys that just doesnt sit well.
Anyone else have a favorite?
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scotchie
Jan 31, 2009, 6:42 AM
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I really enjoyed Triassic Sands. And just to the right of it is another fantastic climb - Wholesome Fullback.
Not that I'm really the expert on Red Rocks, but there are so many superb climbs there. You're gonna have a lot of fun.
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rock_fencer
Feb 1, 2009, 4:59 AM
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Any more favorites. i have 10 days there.
Also guideboook suggestions?
And lastly whats the weather in late march like.
Cheers T
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vegastradguy
Feb 1, 2009, 5:12 AM
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Red Rocks, A climber's guide by Handren is the best book for the area.
late march the weather will be nice, probably a bit warm for sunny routes like Levitation or Black Orpheus- likely want the east facing stuff or north facing, depending on temps.
Routes like Frigid Air Buttress, 5.9+ or La Cierta Edad, 5.10 are excellent that time of year. Icebox in general is pretty nice- the Sunnyside Crags and Necromancer area are cool too.
Community Pillar, 5.9, Birthday Party 5.10- and Black Widow Hollow are cool in Pine Creek.
Juniper has Crimson, Ginger, Nightcrawler (a must do), and Black Dagger- and if you want to play on something huge, the Original Route on the Rainbow Wall goes at .11 C0 (french free on bolts).
Black Velvet has a pile of stuff, Sour Mash and Only the Good Die Young being among my less crowded favorites. Anything on Whiskey Peak is awesome, though- Ixtlan is pretty cool at .11c.
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caliclimbergrl
Feb 1, 2009, 5:51 AM
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Frigid Air Buttress is an awesome climb. There are two chimney pitches though and I remember one being pretty tight.
I'll be in RR for the last week of March too and I'll be looking for parters. though I wouldn't consider 5.11 moderate!
What about Jubilant Song -- have you done that route? I've been wanting to do that one for a year now.
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norushnomore
Feb 1, 2009, 10:22 AM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2002
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Plenty of good suggestions, a few more:
Risky business (just a bit pg but one fine route)
Unimpeachable groping (sp?) is super with a true tower summit
Adventure punks is nice if you got the b@lls
Edge of the sun is not bad if you are ok with 9+10a runouts (don't do it on a windy day)
Cartwright corner and two other climbs sharing the ledge to the right after pitch two are never busy
and will keep adrenaling flowing.
Second nightcrawler and if you do it quickly try brand new kentucky derby (11a?) starting at the same spot
there are plenty more but this should get you started
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rock_fencer
Feb 1, 2009, 2:40 PM
Post #9 of 21
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great sounds like i have quite the stellar tick-list now.
Thanks for the help.
Caliclimbergirl - its a big group from illinois that is coming out there. We would most likely be able to work something out. I'll keep you posted with details.
Cheers and thanks for the help
T
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jaablink
Feb 1, 2009, 3:48 PM
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
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you should have no problems finding your way around Red Rocks using the guide book. But
Guide books for Zion are not the best. You can contact park services for rout-maps as many routs are not in any books. Keep in mind that Zion is an Adventure area. You can also check out supertopo.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/zion.html
I would also recommend chatting with some local climbers. I can PM you with some emails of local Zion climbers if you like.
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vegastradguy
Feb 1, 2009, 4:41 PM
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caliclimbergrl wrote: What about Jubilant Song -- have you done that route? I've been wanting to do that one for a year now.
jubilant's a great route, although if its in the 80s by the end of march, i would suspect its far too warm to do it. the route faces due south and gets full sun all day....
oh, i forgot to recommend Risky Business- AMAZING route- full value 5.10 climbing...great climb.
the Next Century and Y2K are over there too.
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rock_fencer
Feb 1, 2009, 5:07 PM
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ive never climbed in the desert being from the east coast, what is the problem with climbing in the sun all day? Just gets hot and sweaty or is there some inherant problem with the rock and approach?
I have done my fair share of hiking in deserts though and acclimate very easily to high temperatures. Just curious as to why you guys say to stay off some routes if it gets really warm.
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vegastradguy
Feb 1, 2009, 5:26 PM
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rock_fencer wrote: ive never climbed in the desert being from the east coast, what is the problem with climbing in the sun all day? Just gets hot and sweaty or is there some inherant problem with the rock and approach? I have done my fair share of hiking in deserts though and acclimate very easily to high temperatures. Just curious as to why you guys say to stay off some routes if it gets really warm.
because you bake, and the rock can get too hot to touch, depending on the color (desert varnish will burn your skin in summer temps). it mostly depends on your heat tolerance, but most folks get uncomfortable around 80-85 in full sun exposure.
its not like hiking- i can hike in the deep summer if i need to (110+ temps), but i will not climb in that same temp in the sun. the difference, i think, is your ability to get out of the heat- on the trail, you can hide in a bush or something, and you're probably not hiking in the full sun for 6-8 hours. on a climb, you're exposed for the entire length of the climb, which on a big multipitch like jubilant song, can easily be 4-6 hours or more.
personally (and i live here), i wont climb full sun exposed routes past about 80-85. i could, but there's all those shady routes that will be perfect and that i havent been able to climb all winter!
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caliclimbergrl
Feb 1, 2009, 5:58 PM
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vegastradguy wrote: caliclimbergrl wrote: What about Jubilant Song -- have you done that route? I've been wanting to do that one for a year now. jubilant's a great route, although if its in the 80s by the end of march, i would suspect its far too warm to do it. the route faces due south and gets full sun all day....
Oh bummer -- I was really hoping to do that route, but the I can't imagine it'll be too much cooler than 80 at the end of March. :(
Oh well, there's plenty of good routes.
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scotchie
Feb 1, 2009, 10:03 PM
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Registered: Jul 31, 2004
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Well I climb, bike, and hike in the heat. But there are some things you need to be mindful of....
Belays in the shade definitely help. I usually don't mind climbing in the sun, but I hate having to be tethered to it.
Plan for your hydration needs with enough liquids and salts and be sure to keep drinking them. In the desert you can be get dehydrated without getting sweaty, because the low humidity sucks the moisture away. Also, moisture-wicking clothing helps a lot.
Last but definitely not least, be attentive to the heat tolerance of your entire party. If one person gets heat exhuastion, it could slow down the whole group (not to mention being not-so-fun for that one person).
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rock_fencer
Feb 2, 2009, 5:02 AM
Post #16 of 21
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I'll keep the heat in mind.
Is there anything in zion thats not an aid line and goes at 5.10 or below? Im guessing i will probably stay at RR for the whole week but figured id try zion if possible.
T
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chrisnovak
Feb 2, 2009, 6:59 AM
Post #17 of 21
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Registered: Dec 26, 2002
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Hi - for Zion, I spent an enjoyable afternoon on some single pitch trad climbs in the 5.9-5.11 range just to the left of Touchstone Wall (Cerebrus Gendarme Area - check out http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Utah/St__George/Zion_National_Park/Cerebrus_Gendarme/).
I've never been, but the Grotto free climbs (http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Utah/St__George/Zion_National_Park/Grotto_free_climbs/) look promising.
The guidebook that I have (Desert Rock, by Bjornstad) shows some interesting long moderate routes, too: North Spur III of Lady Mountain (5.7, 11 pitches), Equinox IV in the Leaning Wall area (5.10+, 10 pitches), Moria III or Black Crack on NW face of Mt Spry (5.8, 5 pitches and 5.9, 5 pitches, respectively). Also, there seems to be a bunch of shorter multi-pitch climbs in the Tunnel Crags area (Never Again, The Headache, Boring) - but these might be closed for peregrines. Anyway, I've never been to any of these, so you'll need to check on the details - but you should be able to find something to keep you entertained.
Have fun,
Chris
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rock_fencer
Feb 10, 2009, 4:08 AM
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So Zion is out, my would be partner's sister is taking the whole week off in denver.
A side note. i heard it gets relatively windy out in RR. Was wondering on jacket suggestions? I dont want to bring anything bulky but am unsure how the thin nylon's will stand up to the climbing. Was looking at the marmot wind shirt. would a soft shell be better?
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pedroparramo
Feb 10, 2009, 4:29 AM
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Registered: May 24, 2003
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What's with all this talk about scorching temps in March? I've been in RR in March and have frozen my ASS off!
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rock_fencer
Feb 10, 2009, 4:40 AM
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well thats what people say. Averages are high 70's low 40's so its not that cold. Im used to climbing in the winter between 36-48 with 20-30 mph wind right now so everything is relative. I am trying to figure out what to bring so i can pack as light as possible
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vegastradguy
Feb 10, 2009, 4:26 PM
Post #21 of 21
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pedroparramo wrote: What's with all this talk about scorching temps in March? I've been in RR in March and have frozen my ASS off!
at the first red rock rendezvous some years back, temps were around 95 degrees and it was March 22nd. the next year, temps didnt pass 50 that month.
it varies widely. given that we're in the 60s at the moment, i suspect 70s will be the order of the day, but who knows.
as for a shell- any windproof shell is fine- i only wear my softshells when its friggin cold out (like, in the 50s or lower). the rest of the time, a standard wind shell is fine. it also depends on the route. Crimson is probably the worst of all routes for wind....just something about it catches the wind....
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