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roc-ray
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Nov 19, 2002, 5:09 AM
Post #26 of 52
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figure 8 for sure took me long enough to remember how to tie that one alone
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coldclimb
Nov 19, 2002, 5:25 AM
Post #27 of 52
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Anyone got a link to this yosemite 8? Never heard of it, but it sounds like I should have.
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duskerhu
Nov 19, 2002, 6:12 AM
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rrradam showed me and my partner (fo_d/Les) what he called "The Big Boy" knot, otherwise known as the Yosemite Finish or follow through, at the spring Minnesota gig.
At first I was skeptical and didn't use it. That was until later that morning when I was climbing a tough route that I fell on and had to hang a couple times. When I got down, I was so pumped and that regular figure 8 was so tight, I couldn't get it undone. fiend had to help me get the rope off my harness.
rrradam promptly said, "I told ya! Ya should've used the 'Big Boy' knot'..." He was right, and I've used it ever since.
I haven't once since had a problem, no matter how many times I fell, no matter how much I hung, getting that knot undone.
Live Free!
Play Hard!
Climb On!
duskerhu
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monkeyarm
Nov 19, 2002, 6:37 AM
Post #29 of 52
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rrradam or jhwnewengland do either of you have a digital camera to show me your knot, cause i wanna see if we are talking about the same thing.
I was shown how to tie it by Syl Mathis, he basically set up the Maryland Instructor certification, so i know its safe either way, i am just curious what else is out there.
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rocmonkey
Nov 19, 2002, 6:52 AM
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I've never used anything other than a figure 8 for tying in. When working a wall with a bunch of kids that want to climb I usually tie it into a lock-gate biner. This makes it easier to tie the next kid in and saves time.
After a days climbing the knot is a bugger to intie I have to admit, but a decent lock-off knot that I redo every few climbs works well.
breathe stone
R C
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ajkclay
Nov 19, 2002, 12:02 PM
Post #31 of 52
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8 with Yosemite follow through.
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apollodorus
Nov 19, 2002, 1:32 PM
Post #32 of 52
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Use the fig-8 with the follow through if you have a harness. If you're tying into the rope directly, use the bowline on a coil.
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climblouisiana
Nov 19, 2002, 2:42 PM
Post #33 of 52
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figure 8. can't remember how to tie a double bowline.
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ouflyboy9
Nov 19, 2002, 3:13 PM
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I use the figure eight. i think that it is a bomber knot, besides if that comes undone. it was just you rday to go
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blanchas
Nov 19, 2002, 3:22 PM
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I think that this is what you guys are talking about ... could someone that knows for sure verify http://blanchas.myftpsite.net/Rockclimbing/stuff/page_01.htm
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boduke
Nov 19, 2002, 3:25 PM
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TR and Trad I typically use a 8 but sport I mainly use a double bowline. I've seen a few crazy things out there though. I knew a couple euro's that tied in with single bowlines and another one that tied in with some sort of retraced bowline thing. Sorry I can't explain. Conrad Anker once recommended I use what was essentially a retraced overhand. I couldn't believe it. He said it was the best knot he ever used.
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texastechclimber
Nov 19, 2002, 3:37 PM
Post #37 of 52
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Double Bowline!!!
I use to use the figure 8 until I found out that the double bowline is almost just as strong as the 8. It is so much easier to untie and tie. It is a very good idea to use a fishermans knot at the end though. You can even tie this knot with one hand and in a small fraction of the time it takes to tie a figure 8.
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ktwo
Nov 19, 2002, 6:46 PM
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I use the double bowline, as I used to work in a gym and had to anchor ropes to the ground for route setting. When you have a knot weighted with you and a bucket of holds for an hour, it has a tendancy to get extremely tight, justifying the use of the bowline.
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bigo
Nov 19, 2002, 6:57 PM
Post #39 of 52
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double bowline
-easy to untie
-no knot left in rope after it's untied
-looks cool
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climbjs
Nov 19, 2002, 7:47 PM
Post #40 of 52
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When sport climbing, I use the double bowline. The knot is not as big as a figure 8, it is easy to untie after big whippers, but ABSOLUTELY requires a backup knot.
When alpine climbing, however, I use the figure 8. Typically, I don't untie until completing the route, and it's easy to remember.
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kevlar
Nov 19, 2002, 8:12 PM
Post #41 of 52
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figure 8 with double fisherman backup ... quick simple an safe
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repete
Nov 19, 2002, 9:07 PM
Post #42 of 52
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I use a normal old figure 8. This summer i saw a guy climbing with double ropes tied in with double over hand knots. Is this safe? I'd imagine it would be fairly hard to untie.
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pelliott
Nov 21, 2002, 5:33 AM
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In one climbing magazine I saw a knot called the DBBB or Double Bowling with a Bowline Backup. I have climbed on it, but I prefer the figure 8 for every day stuff where I won't be doing a lot of falling.
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jhwnewengland
Dec 2, 2002, 4:57 AM
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Sorry monkeyarm, no digital camera. And I can't get to blanchas' site to see if his picture is what we're talking about.
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philbox
Moderator
Dec 2, 2002, 5:10 AM
Post #45 of 52
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I use the double bowline with a bowline backup and finish all that off with a fishermans knot. That sucker aint never coming undone unless I want it too and when I do want it to come undone it is soooo easy to untie.
I started using this knot after I had tried various knots for climbing the overhang at my shed. Because a fall was guaranteed the knot was continually cinching up particularly as we were using a beal rope which seemed to really cinch knots up.
Of course after climbing 13.2 metres of severely overhang lead climbing one would have custard pudding for muscles so a cinched up knot was a real issue here.
Seems the bigger the knot the easier it is to undo.
...Phil...
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ajkclay
Dec 2, 2002, 5:49 AM
Post #46 of 52
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custard pudding for muscles
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ksfrogman
Dec 2, 2002, 6:34 AM
Post #47 of 52
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All I know is that if I were belaying someone with a knot other than a Figure 8, I'd be confused and uncomfortable.
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wildtrail
Dec 2, 2002, 7:55 AM
Post #48 of 52
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Figure Eight with a YOS back up.
Because I was taught that way.
Steve
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climbergirl15
Dec 2, 2002, 1:25 PM
Post #49 of 52
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Figure 8, it is the one required at my gym
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overlord
Dec 2, 2002, 2:10 PM
Post #50 of 52
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i use both, 8 for easier routes, where i dont expect to fall because its easier to tie and check, bowline on harder routes because the additional checkings pays up on untying.
CLIMB ON
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