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dropped belay device still safe?
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pedro_sandchez


Feb 23, 2009, 12:43 AM
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dropped belay device still safe?
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So this weekend I dropped my petzl reverso and attache about 60ish feet. Not sure how it happened, I'm guessing part of my shirt got caught in the gate when I clipped it to my harness because when I reached up to unlock a different biner, i heard it unclip and fall.
Bassically, it slid down a slabby face and then dropped off the vertical face. My partner down below saw it happen and tried to catch it. It bounced off of his palm and landed in the dirt at his feet.

It didn't land directly on rock or anything just in the dirt.
I am convinced it is totally safe in that it didn't impact any rock at the base of the climb. My partner on the other hand is skeptical.
I just wanted to get some other opinions.

Thanks


altelis


Feb 23, 2009, 12:46 AM
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Re: [pedro_sandchez] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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pedro_sandchez wrote:
So this weekend I dropped my petzl reverso and attache about 60ish feet. Not sure how it happened, I'm guessing part of my shirt got caught in the gate when I clipped it to my harness because when I reached up to unlock a different biner, i heard it unclip and fall.
Bassically, it slid down a slabby face and then dropped off the vertical face. My partner down below saw it happen and tried to catch it. It bounced off of his palm and landed in the dirt at his feet.

It didn't land directly on rock or anything just in the dirt.
I am convinced it is totally safe in that it didn't impact any rock at the base of the climb. My partner on the other hand is skeptical.
I just wanted to get some other opinions.

Thanks



hmmmm. yawn. its safe. move on.

or maybe the right response is beware of microfractures, send it to me for proper disposal.

or maybe its STFU n00b

or maybe its do a search!!!!


i dunno. i'm bored of this game.


edge


Feb 23, 2009, 12:54 AM
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Re: [pedro_sandchez] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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It is probably safe from a metallurgical standpoint. Or is it?

If you have to ask here, or your partner is at all worried, then you need to get a new device. Think how bad you would feel if something happened because you wanted to save a few bucks. none of you will climb at 100% wondering about this.

Dial in your systems so nothing like this happens to your new belay device.


(This post was edited by edge on Feb 23, 2009, 1:00 AM)


bandycoot


Feb 23, 2009, 2:20 AM
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Re: [edge] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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Inspect: if fine, then use.

(This post was edited by bandycoot on Feb 23, 2009, 2:20 AM)


currupt4130


Feb 23, 2009, 3:07 AM
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Re: [pedro_sandchez] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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It bounced off his palm and landed in dirt? You're retarded if you go buy another device because you think that one is dangerous. That's no worse than tossing it to your partner and him not catching it... Jesus.

I swear to god you're all way too fucking paranoid. I'm a safe person, but you have to draw the line somewhere.


d0nk3yk0n9


Feb 23, 2009, 3:17 AM
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Re: [currupt4130] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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Inspect it carefully. If you see anything at all that makes you (or your partner) worry, then retire it and get a new one. If you don't, then don't worry about it. However, if your partner is really worried about it, I'd get a new one (or have him chip in to get a new one) so that he's not focusing on that instead of on climbing.


coastal_climber


Feb 23, 2009, 3:30 AM
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Re: [d0nk3yk0n9] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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Have a look at the gate, does it close properly? Yes? Good to go.


pedro_sandchez


Feb 23, 2009, 3:38 AM
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Re: [coastal_climber] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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Thanks for the input guys.
It seems like the consensus is that it is okay.
I apologize for the noobish question. I did some searches and there was nothing that really reflected a drop which I felt was similar to my scenario thus the reason for the perhaps redundant post.
Of course for the rest of the day I belayed my partner on my backup belay device which I carry in the pack for exactly this type of scenario.

I am convinced that the device is safe and I will continue to use it at least for myself. If he still isn't convinced and is insecure with it, then I can always use my backup belay for belaying him.


marc801


Feb 23, 2009, 3:39 AM
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Re: [coastal_climber] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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coastal_climber wrote:
Have a look at the gate, does it close properly? Yes? Good to go.
The OP is asking about the belay device, not the biner, as evidenced by the subject of: "Dropped belay device still safe?"
Do you even bother to read before you post a reply?


johnwesely


Feb 23, 2009, 3:46 AM
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Re: [marc801] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
coastal_climber wrote:
Have a look at the gate, does it close properly? Yes? Good to go.
The OP is asking about the belay device, not the biner, as evidenced by the subject of: "Dropped belay device still safe?"
Do you even bother to read before you post a reply?

The less you know about the thread, the easier it is to post whore.


coastal_climber


Feb 23, 2009, 6:22 AM
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Re: [marc801] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
coastal_climber wrote:
Have a look at the gate, does it close properly? Yes? Good to go.
The OP is asking about the belay device, not the biner, as evidenced by the subject of: "Dropped belay device still safe?"
Do you even bother to read before you post a reply?

Hard day at the office?


majid_sabet


Feb 23, 2009, 6:35 AM
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Re: [pedro_sandchez] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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many years ago, one of the hardware mfgs dropped 100 hardware and did an extensive testing after each drop and discovered that almost 90+% of the dropped gear were fine but then you got the few which did not.

Aluminum is not a metal that you can easily detect internal cracks or signs of stress by visual inspection. To be able to see stress factors, you must use an x-ray or do other test such as ultrasonic which YOU do not have at home so what is your life worth?


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Feb 23, 2009, 6:35 AM)


suilenroc


Feb 23, 2009, 6:48 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
...so what is your life worth?

yup.


USnavy


Feb 23, 2009, 6:52 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
many years ago, one of the hardware mfgs dropped 100 hardware and did an extensive testing after each drop and discovered that almost 90+% of the dropped gear were fine but then you got the few which did not.

Aluminum is not a metal that you can easily detect internal cracks or signs of stress by visual inspection. To be able to see stress factors, you must use an x-ray or do other test such as ultrasonic which YOU do not have at home so what is your life worth?

Really... Hmmm. See I too read the same article but the actual results was 100% of the devices were safe. And it was REI that did the test. And it was on carabiners. REI found that all of their carabiners they dropped failed above their rating.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Feb 23, 2009, 6:25 PM)


Urban_Cowboy


Feb 23, 2009, 9:58 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
so what is your partner's life worth?
FIFY

I don't use/trust "iffy" gear, not that I'm made of money, but really, what is a life worth, and how bad would you feel if something failed that you knew was questionable? Chances are that it's fine, but this sport is dangerous enough as it is; why add to that?


the_leech


Feb 23, 2009, 4:33 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
many years ago, one of the hardware mfgs dropped 100 hardware and did an extensive testing after each drop and discovered that almost 90+% of the dropped gear were fine but then you got the few which did not.

Aluminum is not a metal that you can easily detect internal cracks or signs of stress by visual inspection. To be able to see stress factors, you must use an x-ray or do other test such as ultrasonic which YOU do not have at home so what is your life worth?

Yes, it's true.

Major Sorbet has rediscovered MICROFRACTURES!!!!


shoo


Feb 23, 2009, 4:44 PM
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Re: [USnavy] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
Really... Hmmm. See I to read the same article but the actual results was 100% of the devices were safe. And it was REI that did the test. And it was on carabiners. REI found that all of their carabiners they dropped failed above their rating.

This was in no way, shape, or form a definitive test. I am in the process of contacting the person originally in charge of this test to get more details.

As far as I know, there hasn't been any definitive test proving or disproving the existence or effect of microfractures in dropped gear.

Majid, would you care to link to that study you are citing?


blueeyedclimber


Feb 23, 2009, 4:52 PM
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marc801 wrote:
coastal_climber wrote:
Have a look at the gate, does it close properly? Yes? Good to go.
The OP is asking about the belay device, not the biner, as evidenced by the subject of: "Dropped belay device still safe?"
Do you even bother to read before you post a reply?

Did you? IF you read the post, you'll notice he said reverso AND attache (which is a biner).

Just sayin'

Josh


jeepnphreak


Feb 23, 2009, 4:53 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
many years ago, one of the hardware mfgs dropped 100 hardware and did an extensive testing after each drop and discovered that almost 90+% of the dropped gear were fine but then you got the few which did not.

Aluminum is not a metal that you can easily detect internal cracks or signs of stress by visual inspection. To be able to see stress factors, you must use an x-ray or do other test such as ultrasonic which YOU do not have at home so what is your life worth?

Ut ohh, we have stats with out citations... Wink
How about a like to this atricle.


Back on to the question...
I think that its safe, asumming that your partners hand really did contact teh R3 first before it hit the ground. BUT being a paranoied PITA I would also retire it and get a new one just in case. IMHO my partner nor I are going to die over a $30 piece of eqipment that may be in question


reg


Feb 23, 2009, 4:55 PM
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i dropped my reverso - hit the talus from about 200' up. didn't even bother lookin for it. but that's me


trenchdigger


Feb 23, 2009, 4:55 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
many years ago, one of the hardware mfgs dropped 100 hardware and did an extensive testing after each drop and discovered that almost 90+% of the dropped gear were fine but then you got the few which did not.

Aluminum is not a metal that you can easily detect internal cracks or signs of stress by visual inspection. To be able to see stress factors, you must use an x-ray or do other test such as ultrasonic which YOU do not have at home so what is your life worth?

I'm calling BS as well. But what else is new?
Reference please...


(This post was edited by trenchdigger on Feb 23, 2009, 4:57 PM)


acorneau


Feb 23, 2009, 4:58 PM
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reg wrote:
i dropped my reverso - hit the talus from about 200' up. didn't even bother lookin for it. but that's me

Litter-er!!!

Tongue


marde


Feb 23, 2009, 5:03 PM
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Re: [trenchdigger] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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trenchdigger wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
Aluminum is not a metal that you can easily detect internal cracks or signs of stress by visual inspection. To be able to see stress factors, you must use an x-ray or do other test such as ultrasonic which YOU do not have at home so what is your life worth?

I'm calling BS as well. But what else is new?
Reference please...

majid is absolutely right, you won't be able to see internal fractures in aluminum like in most other materials except glass.


majid_sabet


Feb 23, 2009, 5:05 PM
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trenchdigger wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
many years ago, one of the hardware mfgs dropped 100 hardware and did an extensive testing after each drop and discovered that almost 90+% of the dropped gear were fine but then you got the few which did not.

Aluminum is not a metal that you can easily detect internal cracks or signs of stress by visual inspection. To be able to see stress factors, you must use an x-ray or do other test such as ultrasonic which YOU do not have at home so what is your life worth?

I'm calling BS as well. But what else is new?
Reference please...

You call it BS cause you are Pendejo and can tell the difference between sh*t and burrito . Here smoke this (+==) chingon and come back when you feel like you know something.


trenchdigger


Feb 23, 2009, 5:07 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] dropped belay device still safe? [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
trenchdigger wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
many years ago, one of the hardware mfgs dropped 100 hardware and did an extensive testing after each drop and discovered that almost 90+% of the dropped gear were fine but then you got the few which did not.

Aluminum is not a metal that you can easily detect internal cracks or signs of stress by visual inspection. To be able to see stress factors, you must use an x-ray or do other test such as ultrasonic which YOU do not have at home so what is your life worth?

I'm calling BS as well. But what else is new?
Reference please...

You call it BS cause you are Pendejo and can tell the difference between sh*t and burrito . Here smoke this (+==) chingon and come back when you feel like you know something.

There's the majid I know...

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