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movingoverstone
Dec 3, 2008, 8:52 PM
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Well fancy meeting you here, Joe. This is Jerimiah, the EMT-B from the ledge. It was definitely a relief to have a Medic arrive. Jay, his friend Chris and you all had really cool heads and good humor (a morbid commonality between climbers and people in emergency medicine?) that kept the experience manageable. It went well all things considered and I certainly learned a great deal. Definitely impressed with the number of people who stepped up to help.
On another note, my partner Brian who remained on the top during the rescue is still missing most of his rack. I'm beginning to think we may have left it at the top of the Mummy, which we had climbed earlier that day. He is a newish leader and the rack was only a few months old: Black Diamond C3s up to a 3 Camalot. Racked on Trango wiregates. So if that sounds familiar to anyone please send me an email. The only other party that had been on the ledge were some young men from Boone who I have been unable to find. Small loss though considering what was at stake... perhaps the rats made off with it! mmmm, shiny.
Jerimiah
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Medic56
Jan 21, 2009, 5:02 AM
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My name is Jeff. I was the Team Leader in charge of doing the actual raise. Medic67 ie Joe is a very good friend of mine and we have watched each others backs for over 20 years. I have a son, TJ; who climbs way better than his Dad ever dreamed about. TJ was schooled in his climbing adventures by a dear friend and great person named Mike Fischesser. I started my own adventures in the mid 70's doing stupid things and not getting killed. I am so glad that Jay is doing so well. I have told Joe and many others that this rescue is what I have spent my entire career training for. We were very lucky. To Todd who was very instrumental in pulling this off at the edge...Thank You. There were so many people who were involved and were critical to the execution that I could never remember all of them. I only got to talk to Jay as we transferred him from the Junkin onto the portable that would fit into the Baughman Bag that was used to lift into the helo. I know he heard my voice on the radio as I talked to Joe and tried to reassure him and keep him focused.
What was established were 2 mechanical advantage haul systems. We did not have access to a high directional like a Larkin Frame or Vertex which is exactly what we needed. One thing climbers need to understand is that all rescue operators are taught to use a 15:1 safety margin. We would still be carrying equipment in if we stuck to that to the absolute letter. One of the ropes we started with was only 200 ft and we had to start off with a 3:1 z drag with the other set up as a 5:1. After 2 pulls, we converted the z drag to a 5:1 also so everything would be equal. During the raise, one of the prussik's was found to be almost severed in half. Rope drag was a real problem to say the least. Safety issues were addressed and corrected as they arouse.
I just returned home tonight with my oldest son TJ after receiving a commendation for performing this rescue. TJ found this thread and it brings all things into perspective. Joe received an award like mine but also received an addition award that has never been given before. In fact, I have been doing rescues in this area since 1981 and have never seen or heard of anyone being recognized for doing this. I hope that when Jay feels better that he will come back to this area and Joe and I can meet him in better circumstances. Also, I'd like very much to go climbing with Jay and his friends and family because I know lots of climbers around here and would love to make a day of it!
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majid_sabet
Jan 21, 2009, 6:30 AM
Post #53 of 74
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Medic56 wrote: My name is Jeff. I was the Team Leader in charge of doing the actual raise. Medic67 ie Joe is a very good friend of mine and we have watched each others backs for over 20 years. I have a son, TJ; who climbs way better than his Dad ever dreamed about. TJ was schooled in his climbing adventures by a dear friend and great person named Mike Fischesser. I started my own adventures in the mid 70's doing stupid things and not getting killed. I am so glad that Jay is doing so well. I have told Joe and many others that this rescue is what I have spent my entire career training for. We were very lucky. To Todd who was very instrumental in pulling this off at the edge...Thank You. There were so many people who were involved and were critical to the execution that I could never remember all of them. I only got to talk to Jay as we transferred him from the Junkin onto the portable that would fit into the Baughman Bag that was used to lift into the helo. I know he heard my voice on the radio as I talked to Joe and tried to reassure him and keep him focused. What was established were 2 mechanical advantage haul systems. We did not have access to a high directional like a Larkin Frame or Vertex which is exactly what we needed. One thing climbers need to understand is that all rescue operators are taught to use a 15:1 safety margin. We would still be carrying equipment in if we stuck to that to the absolute letter. One of the ropes we started with was only 200 ft and we had to start off with a 3:1 z drag with the other set up as a 5:1. After 2 pulls, we converted the z drag to a 5:1 also so everything would be equal. During the raise, one of the prussik's was found to be almost severed in half. Rope drag was a real problem to say the least. Safety issues were addressed and corrected as they arouse. I just returned home tonight with my oldest son TJ after receiving a commendation for performing this rescue. TJ found this thread and it brings all things into perspective. Joe received an award like mine but also received an addition award that has never been given before. In fact, I have been doing rescues in this area since 1981 and have never seen or heard of anyone being recognized for doing this. I hope that when Jay feels better that he will come back to this area and Joe and I can meet him in better circumstances. Also, I'd like very much to go climbing with Jay and his friends and family because I know lots of climbers around here and would love to make a day of it!
where was this prusik in your system and what was its purpose? ie, belay, haul.....etc
Any picture from this prusik ?
Thanks
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Medic56
Jan 24, 2009, 9:45 PM
Post #54 of 74
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Registered: Jan 21, 2009
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Sorry. No Pictures and the prusik was not retained. The running pulleys in the 5:1 haul were connected by tandem double wrap prusiks to the haul line. We were doing two raises in tandem. One was a 2 person load ( Pt and paramedic ) and a second single person load beside the medic to help manage the basket as we were doing a horizontal raise. As we did not have a high directional such as an a frame or such, we used padding over all of the rocks that were in the way. I really wished I had an Oz Pod, Larkin Frame or Arizona vertex in my car. Each set of pulleys had a person assigned who would pick up on the system when needed to clear something. The prusik that was cut was found on the third or 4th pull before we assigned someone to follow them. The package was only approx. 5 - 10 ft off the ledge by then as we had bunches of slack to take out with it being about a 190 ft raise. We could only pull about 15 - 20 ft at a time and would have to reset for another pull. Very limited on space but anchors were plentiful and bomb proof. I was really more worried about the stresses on the rope. That's why I had the guys do tandem double wrap prusiks. 8mm on 5/8 static for the haul lines I hoped a prusik would start to slip some before we reached dangerous stress levels. Act sort of like a fuse-able link. All ropes and prusiks used were removed from service and I think destroyed. Sorry this was long, but I hope it answers your question.
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jalmers
Feb 22, 2009, 1:40 AM
Post #55 of 74
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Hi all. This is Jay, the guy that fell. I just wanted to touch base with anyone else that is still paying attention to this thread. You all have no idea how grateful I am for everyone involved in my rescue. You all put your lives at risk to help someone you didn't know, and for that, you are all heroes in my book.
To give everyone a status update on my condition. I know I stated my injuries that I endured earlier in the thread. There were actually more complications that the hospital did not find, and did not inform me that I would come to experience. It is going on four months now from the day the accident actually happened. I just had surgery to repair a broken wrist about two weeks ago and I have three shattered bones in my foot that are mending still. I have had pain every day since the accident in some form or another. I just got over the withdrawals from the physical dependence on the pain killers that I had to take for over three months. I am seeing a therapist for the PTSD that I am going through from the fall. When I look in the mirror, I don't see the same person I was 6 months ago and I was just informed last night, that no matter how hard I try to hide inner-turmoil, I apparently am not the same person to everyone that knows me.
I don't intend for this post to bring anyone down. I just wanted to let everyone know what I have been going through to-date.
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Medic56
Feb 22, 2009, 3:37 AM
Post #56 of 74
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Registered: Jan 21, 2009
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Jay, Glad to hear from you!!! You had a life changing event and it sounds as if you are a better person for it. Keep your head up because things will get better every day. I'll make sure Joe knows this post is up. Just cause you're off the rock does not mean that Joe or myself can't still help...if you need anything or someone to chat at or have a question, just give me a shout.
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uprocks
Feb 23, 2009, 4:06 AM
Post #57 of 74
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Registered: Jan 28, 2009
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Tipton wrote: One party was moving slow trying to get five people up The Daddy on one rope from what I saw. (they didn't make it out until well after dark) Another party of two was going very slowly up The Daddy, then bailed, and started on The Prow at an equally slow rate.
My sympathies to the dude who took the fall...just thought it was worth stepping into a still "live" thread to clarify a little mis-information.
And thanks to the (slow) dudes who transitioned to the Prow [also no issues with the 2 passing parties of 2] so I could lead my son and 3 other friends up the Daddy on his first full day as a 13 YO, 15 yrs after his dad's FA in his final days as a bachelor.
Yes, the last person did follow the last pitch via headlamp (ooooo...scarey). FWIW, hiking out after dark (after a late supper on the buttress) is not such a big deal when equipped with a 200+ lumen MTB light.
(This post was edited by uprocks on Feb 23, 2009, 4:07 AM)
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j_ung
Feb 23, 2009, 8:50 PM
Post #58 of 74
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jalmers wrote: Hi all. This is Jay, the guy that fell. I just wanted to touch base with anyone else that is still paying attention to this thread. You all have no idea how grateful I am for everyone involved in my rescue. You all put your lives at risk to help someone you didn't know, and for that, you are all heroes in my book. To give everyone a status update on my condition. I know I stated my injuries that I endured earlier in the thread. There were actually more complications that the hospital did not find, and did not inform me that I would come to experience. It is going on four months now from the day the accident actually happened. I just had surgery to repair a broken wrist about two weeks ago and I have three shattered bones in my foot that are mending still. I have had pain every day since the accident in some form or another. I just got over the withdrawals from the physical dependence on the pain killers that I had to take for over three months. I am seeing a therapist for the PTSD that I am going through from the fall. When I look in the mirror, I don't see the same person I was 6 months ago and I was just informed last night, that no matter how hard I try to hide inner-turmoil, I apparently am not the same person to everyone that knows me. I don't intend for this post to bring anyone down. I just wanted to let everyone know what I have been going through to-date.
I don't see how anybody could be the same person after all that -- or why they would want to be. Stick with it, bro, and come out of it changed for the stronger. You're alive! Everything else is still possible.
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limeydave
Feb 23, 2009, 9:00 PM
Post #59 of 74
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jalmers wrote: Hi all. This is Jay, the guy that fell. I just wanted to touch base with anyone else that is still paying attention to this thread. You all have no idea how grateful I am for everyone involved in my rescue. You all put your lives at risk to help someone you didn't know, and for that, you are all heroes in my book. To give everyone a status update on my condition. I know I stated my injuries that I endured earlier in the thread. There were actually more complications that the hospital did not find, and did not inform me that I would come to experience. It is going on four months now from the day the accident actually happened. I just had surgery to repair a broken wrist about two weeks ago and I have three shattered bones in my foot that are mending still. I have had pain every day since the accident in some form or another. I just got over the withdrawals from the physical dependence on the pain killers that I had to take for over three months. I am seeing a therapist for the PTSD that I am going through from the fall. When I look in the mirror, I don't see the same person I was 6 months ago and I was just informed last night, that no matter how hard I try to hide inner-turmoil, I apparently am not the same person to everyone that knows me. I don't intend for this post to bring anyone down. I just wanted to let everyone know what I have been going through to-date.
Jay -
I hope the healing goes fast for you.
Your comment about not being the same person struck a chord with me; although it wasn't a climbing accident, I had a biggie as a motorcycle courier in London about 13years ago.
Long story short, although I was very grateful for all the help, and generally in good spirits while I spent time recovering, I was often an a**hole to my friends and family, it was out of character for me to be like that and I think it was result of frustration from not being able to get around by myself.
After about 3 or 4 months I was able to walk again, but I'd say the frustration and delayed stress lasted a good 6 months after the accident.
I don't know if this is directly relevant or even helpful, but I wanted you to know you reminded me of a time when I was dealt a hand like yours, and you're right, the tough bits to deal with are the ones you didn't expect....
Good luck.
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jalmers
Feb 23, 2009, 9:11 PM
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limeydave -
Thank you for this. I am pretty much over the physical aspect, sans occasional moments of pain in my wrist or foot. The biggest issue is that I am constantly, in one way or another, reminded of the accident. That coupled with the fear of falling, inability to close my eyes for a period of time without waking up with that "falling feeling", the panic attacks (which I am on medication for now), and the numbness inside. All of those things, for so long, have created a person that I don't recognize and apparently it isn't just me that doesn't recognize him. The good news is, I do realize that something isn't right, and that I am getting help from people that are experienced in traumatic event-related therapy.
The physical is almost healed, now it is time to focus on the mental/emotional.
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limeydave
Feb 23, 2009, 9:20 PM
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jalmers wrote: limeydave - Thank you for this. I am pretty much over the physical aspect, sans occasional moments of pain in my wrist or foot. The biggest issue is that I am constantly, in one way or another, reminded of the accident. That coupled with the fear of falling, inability to close my eyes for a period of time without waking up with that "falling feeling", the panic attacks (which I am on medication for now), and the numbness inside. All of those things, for so long, have created a person that I don't recognize and apparently it isn't just me that doesn't recognize him. The good news is, I do realize that something isn't right, and that I am getting help from people that are experienced in traumatic event-related therapy. The physical is almost healed, now it is time to focus on the mental/emotional.
You are absolutely right - knowing that something isn't right and puzzling it out tells me that you will be successful eventually.
There's a lot of what you are experiencing that I remember dealing with myself, and it's hard. Ha, I remember wanting to puke every time I got on a plane while the panic attacks were still common. I won't give you any beta though, your strengths are probably different to mine!
If you're ever in the RDU area I'll buy you a beer and we can talk about anything other than climbing...how's that? 
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jalmers
Feb 25, 2009, 12:50 AM
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I actually work in Chapel Hill and live about 25 minutes from the RDU area. I'd be down for a beer or two. :)
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boymeetsrock
Feb 25, 2009, 2:05 AM
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Jay,
Glad to hear you are on the mend, albeit slow. Keep you're head up. Your perseverance is an inspiration.
Good vibes your way! 
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saxfiend
Feb 25, 2009, 4:00 AM
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jalmers wrote: I don't intend for this post to bring anyone down. I just wanted to let everyone know what I have been going through to-date.
Recovery may take a long time, but it'll come. In the meantime, try to roll with the person you are now and let go of the one you were six months ago.
Keep in touch here on the forum.
JL
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marciontheclimb
Apr 10, 2009, 8:53 PM
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seen and heard too much about not wearing a helmet, this string is another one, we all like to be on the wild side.
People are doing crazy things. Check out All Sport Helmets it is an internet site, just got a pretty nice CAMP. In reply to: http://www.allsporthelmets.com
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HIGHER_CLIMBER
Apr 11, 2009, 10:33 PM
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Hey Jay, how you doin now man?
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jalmers
Apr 30, 2009, 12:23 PM
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Hey guys...
I am doing better now, for the most part. Have been on medication to help with the PTSD and panic attacks for several months and they are working great. Only really had 1 "episode" since I have been on them so i guess they are doing their job.
I have decided to walk away from climbing. Not because I am afraid of heights or because I am giving up. When you climb, especially trad. climbing, you cannot second-guess yourself. I know I would be second guessing every single move I make and it would take the fun out of the sport. I want everyone to know, I am still a HUGE supporter of climbing and want everyone who is thinking about climbing to give it a shot. Just be smart about it, wear a helmet!
On a lighter note, we had our second baby (hence the delay in this post) about 2 months ago and she is doing swimmingly. I think she has helped me get through a lot of my issues, or at the very least...gotten my mind off of things.
I have also been semi-keeping up with a blog about my experiences. For those of you that are interested, it is at http://www.jayalmers.com/blog. For those of you who were there, please let me know if I have missed anything or gotten anything wrong as I still don't remember a whole lot for about a week after my accident. I haven't shared that link with anyone except my family. As climbers, you are all my family too so it is only fitting.
Thanks for checking up on me and keep in touch.
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oldsalt
Apr 30, 2009, 2:01 PM
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Jay, your last part about "family" got me. I have been following your story and I find that I really care that you are still part of this family, even if you are not active at present.
If you never go back, keep the good memories. I am through skateboarding, which destroyed my hip. I look back and sometimes ache to go to Kona again. Then I realize how great it is to be able to climb with a bionic hip, and the irrational urge passes.
Best wishes,
Steve
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boymeetsrock
Apr 30, 2009, 6:31 PM
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Jay !!!
What wonderful news on the birth of your daughter!! Congratulations to you and your wife!!
Very glad to hear of your progress in mending too. Your perseverance, and the way in which you are dealing with your accident continue to be truly inspiring. You seem to be handling a VERY challenging situation with much grace.
My thoughts continue to go out to you, and congratulations again on the new life ahead of you!
-Wyeth
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HIGHER_CLIMBER
May 10, 2009, 12:52 AM
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Glad to hear things are looking up for you again. Congrats on your second child! I'm sure you have your hands full. Maybe you'll throw on the ol' harness (actually, probably a new one, lol) when your kids are old enough to want to do what daddy used to do! Take care man, and check back in with us.
-James
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jealmers
Jan 30, 2012, 7:40 PM
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Hello everyone.
This is Jay, the climber that this thread was all about. I just wanted to touch base with everyone that is still interested. It has been 3 years and 29 days since my accident and believe it or not, I am still alive. I have had part of my wrist removed, my ankle reconstructed, still suffer from mild PTSD, and have frontal/global damage to my brain. It has been a bit tough learning how to deal with and overcome my deficits that until about a year ago were being masked by the PTSD. But...I am learning.
I am still working as a Web developer / programmer. I actually just transferred from UNC to UNC-TV so that is pretty exciting. My girls are growing up, entirely too fast. My youngest, that I came close to not meeting will be 3 on Feb. 25. Thank you to those involved in my rescue and the ones rooting for me during my recovery, for helping me continue this ride we call life.
Oh, and BTW. I am in the process of forming a non-profit organization dedicated to the advocacy and support of brain injury survivors, their friends & family, and their caregivers. Check us out online or on Facebook.
Again, this was just a quick check in for anyone interested.
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j_ung
Jan 31, 2012, 4:03 PM
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That's great to hear, Jay! Thanks so much for the update.
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sungam
Feb 1, 2012, 3:29 PM
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Great to hear you are recovering well, Jay!
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boymeetsrock
Feb 3, 2012, 10:03 PM
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Thanks for sharing the update Jay. Good work on your continued recovery.
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