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j_ung
Feb 24, 2009, 4:17 PM
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It'll never be "done," per se, but the Climbing FAQ many of you have been clamoring for is officially open for business.
The Dead Horse Graveyard is a work in perpetuity that will catalog many of those threads that illicit responses such as "Do a search!" Currently, the DHG has categories for general climbing stuff (like ratings), general safety (such as belaying) and gear. In many cases, the answer to questions like, "what kind of shoes are good for a beginner?" are there for the reading, but where it made sense (and if we had the discussions already in place), I've included links to more info, good debates, etc.
Going forward, mods have the authority to redirect and lock threads that the DHG covers well. (Minus the locking part, you guys should feel free to do so, as well. PLEASE do so as well!) However, they also have the authority to use their judgment. If they get to the thread late and there's already decent discussion, they might leave it. If they think the topic is slightly -- but sufficiently -- off what the DHG covers, they might also leave it. In other words, please don't expect blanket thread locking every time something resembles what's in the DHG. Mods also have the authority to moderate any thread linked to in the DHG as though it were in a blue forum.
If you have suggestions for things to add to the DHG, feel free to put them here in this thread, which I'll eventually move to S&F. It would be helpful if you wrote a little something along the lines of an answer and VERY helpful if you include links to pre-existing threads that already cover the topic well.
In coming months, I'll add categories for training, injuries and climbing technique, so I'm especially interested in your suggestions for those.
Thanks! Happy surfing!
J
PS: an extra big thank you to shoo, who helped a ton compiling and writing. (Shoo, would like to stay and help me grade papers?  )
(This post was edited by j_ung on Feb 24, 2009, 4:25 PM)
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j_ung
Feb 24, 2009, 4:27 PM
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Oh, I forgot. If this thing ever gets unrealistically large, I reserve the right to split it up and post it in relevant forums as stickies.
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htotsu
Feb 24, 2009, 5:22 PM
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j_ung wrote: Oh, I forgot. If this thing ever gets unrealistically large, I reserve the right to split it up and post it in relevant forums as stickies.
Maybe you wanna do that anyway.
Btw, WOW! Nice addition.
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Gmburns2000
Feb 24, 2009, 6:32 PM
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The Dead Horse Graveyard
I'm not scrolling through that ^^
In all seriousness, I think it's too long. Breaking it up into the various threads and making them sticky, as you noted, is probably best. At least it will catch and hold some people's attentions.
BTW - not to discredit your work, but I'm guessing that about 90% of all "beginner" questions are trolls.
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j_ung
Feb 24, 2009, 6:33 PM
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Not yet. I'm expecting a flood of activity for this thing, so I'd like it all in one place for now. Also, that central spot makes it so much faster to redirect and lock.
(And thanks, BTW. Shoo and I put a bunch of time into it.)
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Gmburns2000
Feb 24, 2009, 6:48 PM
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j_ung wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: BTW - not to discredit your work, but I'm guessing that about 90% of all "beginner" questions are trolls. I have reason to believe that's not the case. Maybe 20%. 
heh. 
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happiegrrrl
Feb 24, 2009, 6:51 PM
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You mean people SERIOUSLY need REAL advise when they ask questions like "The 16-year old belay dude, I mean - instructor, at the gym dropped me. I'm not hurt. But should I sue him?"
C'mon - that was an rc Alt, wasn't it? Give us a clue....
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jt512
Feb 24, 2009, 6:58 PM
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Nice work, guys.
One criticism: The link to the Gripped article under the topic "How do I get my draws back after a sport climb?" discusses a single method of threading sport anchors, which will work on only a minority of beginner sport climbs; namely, those with rings large enough to accommodate a bight of rope. Furthermore, although the article disclaims it in a caption set in microtype, the photograph shows the climber clipped to the anchor with only a single draw. Since experience on this website suggests that the typical beginning climber can neither read nor write, a beginner relying on this article is likely to mimic the setup in the picture, if he's lucky enough to have ascended to anchors with sufficiently large rings. If he's unlucky enough to find himself facing, say, chain anchors, he may have no idea what to do. Either way, this article was a poor choice to link to.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Feb 24, 2009, 6:59 PM)
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j_ung
Feb 24, 2009, 7:30 PM
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jt512 wrote: Nice work, guys. One criticism: The link to the Gripped article under the topic "How do I get my draws back after a sport climb?" discusses a single method of threading sport anchors, which will work on only a minority of beginner sport climbs; namely, those with rings large enough to accommodate a bight of rope. Furthermore, although the article disclaims it in a caption set in microtype, the photograph shows the climber clipped to the anchor with only a single draw. Since experience on this website suggests that the typical beginning climber can neither read nor write, a beginner relying on this article is likely to mimic the setup in the picture, if he's lucky enough to have ascended to anchors with sufficiently large rings. If he's unlucky enough to find himself facing, say, chain anchors, he may have no idea what to do. Either way, this article was a poor choice to link to. Jay
I debated putting a link to anything in there. I'll look around for something better, or remove it entirely, if I can't find anything. (If you know of anything off hand, point it out to me.)
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jt512
Feb 24, 2009, 8:07 PM
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j_ung wrote: jt512 wrote: Nice work, guys. One criticism: The link to the Gripped article under the topic "How do I get my draws back after a sport climb?" discusses a single method of threading sport anchors, which will work on only a minority of beginner sport climbs; namely, those with rings large enough to accommodate a bight of rope. Furthermore, although the article disclaims it in a caption set in microtype, the photograph shows the climber clipped to the anchor with only a single draw. Since experience on this website suggests that the typical beginning climber can neither read nor write, a beginner relying on this article is likely to mimic the setup in the picture, if he's lucky enough to have ascended to anchors with sufficiently large rings. If he's unlucky enough to find himself facing, say, chain anchors, he may have no idea what to do. Either way, this article was a poor choice to link to. Jay I debated putting a link to anything in there. I'll look around for something better, or remove it entirely, if I can't find anything. (If you know of anything off hand, point it out to me.)
I don't know of a link. Maybe the thing to do is to write an article from scratch, and link to that.
Jay
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j_ung
Feb 24, 2009, 9:06 PM
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I made a couple changes. That'll have to for the moment.
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clausti
Feb 24, 2009, 10:59 PM
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personal opinion, but maybe some people agree with me-
I don't think it's necc to have the directly linked threads routed through the search feature. Because the highlighted words (I went to the "what's the safest belay" thread) are hella annoying.
If you're already directly linking to the post in questions, is the search highlighting really necessary?
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jt512
Feb 24, 2009, 11:59 PM
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clausti wrote: personal opinion, but maybe some people agree with me- I don't think it's necc to have the directly linked threads routed through the search feature. Because the highlighted words (I went to the "what's the safest belay" thread) are hella annoying. If you're already directly linking to the post in questions, is the search highlighting really necessary?
Yeah, the highlighted keywords are distracting. Jay, you should change the URLs in the affected links to direct links to the threads.
Jay
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j_ung
Feb 25, 2009, 1:20 PM
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jt512 wrote: clausti wrote: personal opinion, but maybe some people agree with me- I don't think it's necc to have the directly linked threads routed through the search feature. Because the highlighted words (I went to the "what's the safest belay" thread) are hella annoying. If you're already directly linking to the post in questions, is the search highlighting really necessary? Yeah, the highlighted keywords are distracting. Jay, you should change the URLs in the affected links to direct links to the threads. Jay
 Sorry, I totally CCH-ed the QC. I'll go back over that today and get rid of those.
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sungam
Feb 25, 2009, 7:34 PM
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Heh. CCH'd the QC. I get it. Funny. Pay me and I'll the article for the threading etc. I'll even take colour pikterz.
In fact, you cud just give me prodealz....
Edit to add, I could even take a video.
(This post was edited by sungam on Feb 25, 2009, 7:35 PM)
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clausti
Feb 25, 2009, 7:38 PM
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sungam wrote: Heh. CCH'd the QC. I get it. Funny. Pay me and I'll the article for the threading etc. I'll even take colour pikterz. In fact, you cud just give me prodealz.... Edit to add, I could even take a video.
you edited it and you still can't put the verb in the sentence?
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sungam
Feb 25, 2009, 7:42 PM
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Grammar costs money. I don't put the effort in for free.
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jt512
Feb 25, 2009, 8:33 PM
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clausti wrote: sungam wrote: Heh. CCH'd the QC. I get it. Funny. Pay me and I'll the article for the threading etc. I'll even take colour pikterz. In fact, you cud just give me prodealz.... Edit to add, I could even take a video. you edited it and you still can't put the verb in the sentence?
I think it's a trick. He never actually says what he'd do with the article if he got paid.
Jay
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dpotter05
Feb 26, 2009, 5:19 AM
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Well done j_ung! This is fantastic! Thanks!
David
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j_ung
Feb 26, 2009, 4:39 PM
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Very welcome, David. Please feel free to suggest things that need to be in there.
J
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moose_droppings
Feb 26, 2009, 7:39 PM
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What a monumental task.
Haven't read through all of it, but it looks like a good composite of the main questions.
Must of took you a couple hours or so?
Kuddos to you and Shoo.
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j_ung
Feb 26, 2009, 7:44 PM
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Like 15 minutes to slap something together, and shoo did twelve of them.
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serpico
Feb 27, 2009, 10:08 AM
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jt512 wrote: j_ung wrote: jt512 wrote: Nice work, guys. One criticism: The link to the Gripped article under the topic "How do I get my draws back after a sport climb?" discusses a single method of threading sport anchors, which will work on only a minority of beginner sport climbs; namely, those with rings large enough to accommodate a bight of rope. Furthermore, although the article disclaims it in a caption set in microtype, the photograph shows the climber clipped to the anchor with only a single draw. Since experience on this website suggests that the typical beginning climber can neither read nor write, a beginner relying on this article is likely to mimic the setup in the picture, if he's lucky enough to have ascended to anchors with sufficiently large rings. If he's unlucky enough to find himself facing, say, chain anchors, he may have no idea what to do. Either way, this article was a poor choice to link to. Jay I debated putting a link to anything in there. I'll look around for something better, or remove it entirely, if I can't find anything. (If you know of anything off hand, point it out to me.) I don't know of a link. Maybe the thing to do is to write an article from scratch, and link to that. Jay
Link here: http://www.planetfear.com/...ports_Route_289.html
As for the DHG my only concern would be that in the threads I frequent (training) it's sometimes worth revisiting old topics to see if the current scientific opinion has changed.
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