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jpetsch123
Feb 21, 2009, 5:23 AM
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Last time i was up there, i found gear around 54 meters... a bomber fifi hook duct taped to a micro flake. I'd take falls onto that thing all day.
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thenose
Feb 21, 2009, 7:39 AM
Post #27 of 59
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Hennessey wrote: b b b b Bullshit. 250 foot fall.
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thenose
Feb 21, 2009, 7:40 AM
Post #28 of 59
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krusher4 wrote: Ohhhh it's like that fall in the opening of "Vertical Limit" so the OP say's something simlar happened to them "3 cams won't hold....you'll have to cut them loose" but instead the other climbers gave them a 'spare' rope.
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majid_sabet
Feb 21, 2009, 7:45 AM
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thenose wrote: Hennessey wrote: b b b b Bullshit. 250 foot fall. it was 140 meters not 250 feet
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majid_sabet
Feb 21, 2009, 7:48 AM
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el_layclimber
Feb 21, 2009, 8:25 AM
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I think I figured this out - did you have your dog up there? Damn mutt probably blew your concentration for the onsight. Next time you will know better.
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avalon420
Feb 21, 2009, 7:35 PM
Post #32 of 59
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thenose wrote: krusher4 wrote: Ohhhh it's like that fall in the opening of "Vertical Limit" so the OP say's something simlar happened to them "3 cams won't hold....you'll have to cut them loose" but instead the other climbers gave them a 'spare' rope. i have proof that it happened if you dont believe me
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USnavy
Feb 25, 2009, 7:00 AM
Post #33 of 59
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fun story. next time get it on video
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krusher4
Feb 25, 2009, 3:36 PM
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avalon420 wrote: thenose wrote: krusher4 wrote: Ohhhh it's like that fall in the opening of "Vertical Limit" so the OP say's something simlar happened to them "3 cams won't hold....you'll have to cut them loose" but instead the other climbers gave them a 'spare' rope. i have proof that it happened if you dont believe me Whale then i would just luuuv to see it.
Ok thenose we'd all love to see proof of this?
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ken21il
Feb 26, 2009, 9:01 PM
Post #35 of 59
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hes also on facebook
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fishclimb
Feb 27, 2009, 12:24 AM
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Just for fun, because I'm a physical science teacher.
Home boy fell at 117.28 miles per hour.
Feel free to check my math. This is where I got the equations. http://www.glenbrook.k12.il.us/GBSSCI/PHYS/Class/1DKin/U1L5d.html (Assuming that Home Boy fell at a constant 9.8 m/s/s ignoring wind friction and bouncing off rocks.
(This post was edited by fishclimb on Feb 27, 2009, 12:26 AM)
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fishclimb
Feb 27, 2009, 12:56 AM
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a-e-jones wrote: so how much impact force do you think the climber 250 feet below you recieved Other climbing math. 17.2 KN. Assuming Home Boy weighs 180lbs and it took .25s to decelerate. Of course there are other factors. Like the elasticity of the human body, helmets and if Home Boy had recently been exposed to Kryptonite.
(This post was edited by fishclimb on Feb 27, 2009, 1:05 AM)
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Shuffleblade
Feb 27, 2009, 2:57 AM
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haha dude I really like people that keep their stuff together and know their shit XD
haha thanks for doing this for fun, it really was entertaining :P
Like 17kn would tear a limb off XD
So much for "catching" someone
Really thanks alot for this XD
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desertwanderer81
Mar 6, 2009, 5:55 PM
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PFFFT, you deniers are all newbs. This is totally doable, but only if the guy catching David Haslhoff is Stalone.
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barkandbite
Mar 18, 2009, 4:38 PM
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everyone who replied to the OP thinking for one hot second that this was real, please run naked around the outsiede of your house or apt. bldg twice as penance. And i hope it's cold where you are
(This post was edited by barkandbite on Mar 18, 2009, 5:44 PM)
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desertwanderer81
Mar 18, 2009, 4:47 PM
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SHRINKAGE!!!!!
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Lazlo
Mar 18, 2009, 5:02 PM
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thenose wrote: Yesterday my partner and myself set out to do a free climb of the nose. We wanted to do the whole route with no aid gear (accept for pitch 31). We made it up to pitch 25 when it was my turn to lead. We were linking pitches with two 80 meter twin ropes used as half ropes for lower force. I placed a WC zero 1 cam in a super flaring crack about 10 meters past the belay station. After about 70 meters I started to get super pumped and I fell. The problem was that there was no pro between me and that last WC zero. So I fell 140 meters onto the WC zero 1 on only one twin rope. It was about a factor 1.8er. Anyway the cam held until just about when I stopped on the rope. Then the cam failed and I fell into the belay station at a factor two level. The force of the impact caused the bolted belay station to rip out of the rock. Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall. Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall. But the other team was nice enough to lend us a rope to rap down back to the ground. In the end it was a crazy morning and I will be more prepared next time. So does anyone know how to get past pitch 25 with adding a bit more pro? The small flaring crack 10m above the belay station is the only thing I saw.
I was entertained. Anyone care for some mutton?
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Lazlo
Mar 18, 2009, 5:06 PM
Post #43 of 59
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thenose wrote: Yesterday my partner and myself set out to do a free climb of the nose. We wanted to do the whole route with no aid gear (accept for pitch 31). We made it up to pitch 25 when it was my turn to lead. We were linking pitches with two 80 meter twin ropes used as half ropes for lower force. I placed a WC zero 1 cam in a super flaring crack about 10 meters past the belay station. After about 70 meters I started to get super pumped and I fell. The problem was that there was no pro between me and that last WC zero. So I fell 140 meters onto the WC zero 1 on only one twin rope. It was about a factor 1.8er. Anyway the cam held until just about when I stopped on the rope. Then the cam failed and I fell into the belay station at a factor two level. The force of the impact caused the bolted belay station to rip out of the rock. Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall. Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall. But the other team was nice enough to lend us a rope to rap down back to the ground. In the end it was a crazy morning and I will be more prepared next time. So does anyone know how to get past pitch 25 with adding a bit more pro? The small flaring crack 10m above the belay station is the only thing I saw.
I just read it again. Fun read. I gave it five stars.
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mar_leclerc
Mar 19, 2009, 2:08 AM
Post #44 of 59
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thenose wrote: Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall.
HAHAHAHA.. thats friggin awesome! WAY beter than Vertical Limit!
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thenose
Jun 4, 2010, 8:36 AM
Post #45 of 59
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a-e-jones wrote: no defenitly a troll
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rangerrob
Jun 4, 2010, 11:51 PM
Post #47 of 59
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What movie was that scenario taken from?
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milesenoell
Jun 5, 2010, 12:51 AM
Post #48 of 59
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mar_leclerc wrote: thenose wrote: Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall. HAHAHAHA.. thats friggin awesome! WAY beter than Vertical Limit!
So much better! In Vertical Limit its just the rope catching around another climber, in this scenario not one, but both fallers actually arrest their falls by grabbing the climber himself. The impact of each incoming faller would have to be like getting hit by a car, and yet he's just happy to help out and lend them a rope while continuing up the route.
(This post was edited by milesenoell on Jun 5, 2010, 1:02 AM)
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jeremy11
Jun 5, 2010, 4:15 PM
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I'm surprised you didn't pass a bolted belay station after 80 meters of climbing, if you did, it would have been wise to clip it. Also, there's a good chance there is some fixed gear up there somewhere as well. Clip that too.
The most surprising thing is that you were able to self rescue (with a bit of help from Newton or whoever caught you) and that you then went home, and promptly woke up the next morning and posted your mini epic on rc.com.
I'd think a rad 5.13 big wall climber would be able to figure out how to protect the nose well enough that he wouldn't have to ask us how to do it.
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moose_droppings
Jun 5, 2010, 5:00 PM
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thenose wrote: a-e-jones wrote: no defenitly a troll uh no.
You just couldn't let a year old troll die?
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