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jetescamilla
Mar 2, 2009, 10:25 PM
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I am looking to transition from strictly top roping into some easy sport routes and need to invest in my first set of quickdraws. I will be using these fairly infrequently. I will be lucky to go out twice a month during the warmer months here in the North West.
Firstly, I have been looking a lot at previous posts on this site, among others. So dont flame on me to hard. But I still have a few questions.
Secondly, what websites typically give the best deals? I have looked at Altrec, MooseJaw, and Backcountry. Are there others that you will look at to get a good deal?
Finally, should I look into a normal/wiregate combo quickdraw? I have read posts about wiregates potentially undoing themselves on the rock end of the QD. As of right now I feel I am leaning towards this QD configuration. Is this fine?
Thanks for the suggestions.
Edited for more clarity...
Pricewise I would like to stay midlevel to lower. I dont think there is a need for me to go high end if I am not going to be using them very often.
As far as weight goes. I would expect that to also be related to price. Since I am getting into sport climbing I really dont know what the effect of carrying an addition 5-10lb of equipment will do to my abilities. I would assume to stay a light as possible without breaking the bank.
(This post was edited by jetescamilla on Mar 2, 2009, 10:48 PM)
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tedman
Mar 2, 2009, 10:35 PM
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If money isnt a huge issue, what I'm trending towards is keylock straight gates for the bolt/gear side and wiregates for the rope. keylocks are really nice for not snagging the bolt/gear when you are unclipping. I'm really liking the mammut elements, both in the wire and red anodized keylock If money is tight, there is nothing wrong with the OP dirtbag draws. Heavy and all straight gates, but they work just fine.
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patmay81
Mar 2, 2009, 10:35 PM
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personally all of my sport draws are simond spiders on the rock end, metolius or bd wires on the rope end with a petzl draw.
if your only climbing once or twice a month, I'd go cheap. dirtbag or entry level BD (don't get the ones with the spectra draw, they twist and I inevitably back clip)
for cheap sites, acmeclimbing.com usually has pretty good deals.
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fxgranite
Mar 2, 2009, 10:42 PM
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I can't comment with much authority about wiregates but I've always assumed the benefits of a wiregate is that its lighter. So are you looking for a light draw? How about price?
I started out getting the omega pacific dirtbag draws cause they're among the cheapest draws out there (at $49 for 5 on gearexpress.com). I suspect that these draws are the reason my ropes are covered in aluminum though.
Check out http://www.spadout.com for some more deals
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patmay81
Mar 2, 2009, 10:46 PM
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wire gates have an added advantage of less gate flutter, thus the common use on the rope end of a draw.
any draw will embed aluminum in a rope. the op dirtbags are great beginners draw, they let you get outside and climb without breaking the bank.
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kennoyce
Mar 2, 2009, 10:48 PM
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If I were getting a first set of quick draws, I would check out climbaxe.com. They have some lightweight wiregate quickdraws (VeriLight XT)with lightweight dynema dogbones for 10 bucks a piece. I have a friend who got these draws, and they seem really good for the price. I personally have a wiregate on the rope side, and a normal gate on the bolt side, but the chance of coming unclipped on the bolt side is really so minimal that it is fine to have both ends be wiregates. hope this helps and good luck.
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jetescamilla
Mar 2, 2009, 10:56 PM
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Thanks for the quick responses. I will definitely go and check out some of the sites you all mentioned. Around $10/draw is what I was hoping for so that seems fine. How many should I be looking to purchase? For sure at least the number of bolts I want to climb + 2 for the top + 2 more just in case. Does that seem reasonable?
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kennoyce
Mar 2, 2009, 11:12 PM
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That sounds reasonable, I personally would say that 10 to 14 should get you up just about any sport route that I have ever done, but depending on where you are planning on climbing you may not need that many.
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brawa
Mar 3, 2009, 4:41 AM
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I picked up 2 packs (10 total 'draws) of the CAMP Orbit Express Quckdraws. (http://www.shop-camp-usa.com/...d=1&productId=27)
I'm in a similar situation as you, just getting into climbing on my own gear outside instead of mooching off partners. They come out to be a little over $10 a piece with shipping, have keylock 'biners, and only weigh 93 or 94 grams (not bad for non-wiregates).
I'm definitely happy with them, especially as a first set.
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ferox
Mar 3, 2009, 12:46 PM
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brawa wrote: I picked up 2 packs (10 total 'draws) of the CAMP Orbit Express Quckdraws. ( http://www.shop-camp-usa.com/...d=1&productId=27) I'm in a similar situation as you, just getting into climbing on my own gear outside instead of mooching off partners. They come out to be a little over $10 a piece with shipping, have keylock 'biners, and only weigh 93 or 94 grams (not bad for non-wiregates). I'm definitely happy with them, especially as a first set.
I second that. I did the same but got 4 packs of these. Action is good. Also happy with them.
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sungam
Mar 3, 2009, 7:29 PM
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Madrock also has some nice keylock bolt end, bent gate wiegate rope end draws.
12 or 13 bucks a pop, and I have to admit one of the nicest I've used. I just ordered a fairly large batch of them.
edit to add - they have the rubber straightjacket thing to hold the rope biner in place.
(This post was edited by sungam on Mar 3, 2009, 7:30 PM)
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Armonster
Mar 4, 2009, 7:39 AM
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Check out sierratradingpost.com for some good deals on Simond Spiders. $25/draw on backcountry, but $12/draw there! You might have to buy the biners and draws separately there.
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jt512
Mar 4, 2009, 9:51 AM
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jetescamilla wrote: Thanks for the quick responses. I will definitely go and check out some of the sites you all mentioned. Around $10/draw is what I was hoping for...
$10 a draw = junk. Since you obviously don't care about either safety or performance, just shop around online and buy the cheapest draws you can find.
Jay
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brawa
Mar 4, 2009, 4:26 PM
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jt512 wrote: $10 a draw = junk. Since you obviously don't care about either safety or performance, just shop around online and buy the cheapest draws you can find. Jay
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jetescamilla
Mar 4, 2009, 8:42 PM
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Believe me I am not going to sacrifice the safety of me or my wife. I am looking for a reasonable set of quickdraws for what I will be using them for. There are plenty of online stores that also offer coupon codes, such as moosejaws 20% code. I can get the prices in some of the ones close to $10 with that.
Forgive me for not buying $28 draws that are shiny and look cool for my 5.8 climbs one a month for the 4 months I can climb here.
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jt512
Mar 4, 2009, 8:47 PM
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brawa wrote: jt512 wrote: $10 a draw = junk. Since you obviously don't care about either safety or performance, just shop around online and buy the cheapest draws you can find. Jay What part of safety is sacrificed by getting less expensive draws?
Open-gate strength.
Jay
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Searching for first set of quickdraws
