|
caleb_danner
Mar 18, 2009, 1:47 AM
Post #1 of 141
(19381 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2007
Posts: 226
|
black diamond, wild country...
I'm looking to buy some hexes but wondering what brand should i buy. i herd that BD sucks is that true?
|
|
|
|
|
duncanlennon
Mar 18, 2009, 1:52 AM
Post #2 of 141
(19379 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 6, 2006
Posts: 109
|
caleb_danner wrote: i herd that BD sucks is that true?
No, but Wild Country is better. Nice curvature makes for better camming action.
|
|
|
|
|
rockandlice
Mar 18, 2009, 1:57 AM
Post #3 of 141
(19372 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2008
Posts: 622
|
Not a fan of the BD hexes. I do like the curved metolius hexes though.
|
|
|
|
|
jeremy11
Mar 18, 2009, 2:01 AM
Post #4 of 141
(19365 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2004
Posts: 597
|
you should try the new DMM Torque Nuts and let us know how they are.
http://dmmclimbing.com/...p?pid=5&pid2=202
I climb on the WC hexes and love them, sizes 6-9
although, I wish they made a size 10 - I might just get the BD 11 to make up for it - and be an alpine rappel device
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
Mar 18, 2009, 2:03 AM
Post #5 of 141
(19361 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
The WC hexes I have are far superior to any brand at sitting on the fucking shelf and never being used. I cannot recommend a more useful set of useless pro.
|
|
|
|
|
seatbeltpants
Mar 18, 2009, 2:09 AM
Post #6 of 141
(19355 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 9, 2008
Posts: 581
|
dr_feelgood wrote: The WC hexes I have are far superior to any brand at sitting on the fucking shelf and never being used. I cannot recommend a more useful set of useless pro.
if they're looking for a home, like... i'll give you twenty shiny new zealand dollars for em.
steve
|
|
|
|
|
caleb_danner
Mar 18, 2009, 2:10 AM
Post #7 of 141
(19355 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2007
Posts: 226
|
I would be willing to try them but i have nothing to compare them two
I think i will be going with the WC hexes that seams to be what everyone likes best
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Mar 18, 2009, 2:42 AM
Post #8 of 141
(19330 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
jeremy11 wrote: you should try the new DMM Torque Nuts and let us know how they are. http://dmmclimbing.com/...p?pid=5&pid2=202 [image]http://dmmclimbing.com/uploads/subcategories/single-torque.jpg[/image] I climb on the WC hexes and love them, sizes 6-9 although, I wish they made a size 10 - I might just get the BD 11 to make up for it - and be an alpine rappel device
That is secksy.
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Mar 18, 2009, 2:49 AM
Post #9 of 141
(19326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
having been foolish enough to actually try and use hexes back when i was learning, i quickly discovered that just about all of today's hexes are, for the most part, useless in most protection scenarios today. tried 'em all...they all sucked.
that said, if you feel you really want hexes...go find some old chouinards on ebay...those bad boys were hands down the best hexes i ever used-- mostly because they actually got used.
|
|
|
|
|
caleb_danner
Mar 18, 2009, 2:56 AM
Post #10 of 141
(19312 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2007
Posts: 226
|
vegastradguy wrote: having been foolish enough to actually try and use hexes back when i was learning, i quickly discovered that just about all of today's hexes are, for the most part, useless in most protection scenarios today. tried 'em all...they all sucked. that said, if you feel you really want hexes...go find some old chouinards on ebay...those bad boys were hands down the best hexes i ever used-- mostly because they actually got used.
the main reason i want hexes is because I'm on a tight budget and want to try them out and they are good for the anchor
|
|
|
|
|
Alpine07
Mar 18, 2009, 3:00 AM
Post #11 of 141
(19308 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 1, 2007
Posts: 842
|
vegastradguy wrote: having been foolish enough to actually try and use hexes back when i was learning, i quickly discovered that just about all of today's hexes are, for the most part, useless in most protection scenarios today. tried 'em all...they all sucked. that said, if you feel you really want hexes...go find some old chouinards on ebay...those bad boys were hands down the best hexes i ever used-- mostly because they actually got used.
This is true. They tend to be fairly useless for your normal cragging situation. But if you will be spending any amount of time in the mountains, they are indispensable, IMHO. Reasons? They weigh less, they don't put as much outward force on the rock as a cam, they work better in icy and dirty cracks, and lastly they don't cost a whole lot. You are not going to feel as bad rapping off of a hex than a cam.
|
|
|
|
|
rschap
Mar 18, 2009, 3:41 AM
Post #12 of 141
(19283 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2005
Posts: 592
|
I have BD Hexes and I’ve tried the wild country slung hexes that a buddy of mine had. Personally I like the BD better; I found placing the slung hexes was a PITA in some cases. The nice thing about the slung hexes is the slings can be shortened by tying a knot in them to cut down on the swing, but I say more cow bell.
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
Mar 18, 2009, 3:43 AM
Post #13 of 141
(19281 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
caleb_danner wrote: vegastradguy wrote: having been foolish enough to actually try and use hexes back when i was learning, i quickly discovered that just about all of today's hexes are, for the most part, useless in most protection scenarios today. tried 'em all...they all sucked. that said, if you feel you really want hexes...go find some old chouinards on ebay...those bad boys were hands down the best hexes i ever used-- mostly because they actually got used. the main reason i want hexes is because I'm on a tight budget and want to try them out and they are good for the anchor
If you spend $60 on a set of hexes, that is 1-2 cams depending on brand and condition. Why waste your money on shit that you'll use for 3 months and discard as useless? Book a 60 hour work week, and buy a set of cams.
|
|
|
|
|
chadcummings
Mar 18, 2009, 3:51 AM
Post #14 of 141
(19269 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2007
Posts: 56
|
i got black diamond and the slung wild countrys. between the two i say get a job that pays more and buy cams. you going to do it sooner or later
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Mar 18, 2009, 3:57 AM
Post #15 of 141
(19267 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
caleb_danner wrote: vegastradguy wrote: having been foolish enough to actually try and use hexes back when i was learning, i quickly discovered that just about all of today's hexes are, for the most part, useless in most protection scenarios today. tried 'em all...they all sucked. that said, if you feel you really want hexes...go find some old chouinards on ebay...those bad boys were hands down the best hexes i ever used-- mostly because they actually got used. the main reason i want hexes is because I'm on a tight budget and want to try them out and they are good for the anchor
then i would repeat my recommendation of finding yourself some old chouinards...excellent hexes- best i've ever used.
i would note, though, that saying that 'they are good for the anchor' doesnt really mean anything- they might be, they might not be- depends on the opportunities available.
but hey, if you want to try 'em, knock yourself out- you might love 'em and think all those hex haters (of which, i am not- i only dislike today's hexes) are idiots!
|
|
|
|
|
krosbakken
Mar 18, 2009, 4:21 AM
Post #16 of 141
(19248 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 581
|
caleb_danner wrote: black diamond, wild country... I'm looking to buy some hexes but wondering what brand should i buy. i herd that BD sucks is that true?
I have some hexes for sale if you want them. pm me if your interested.
I have carried hexes and used them rarely. They are nice for odd placements, and I did used them in a parallel crack one time, because I ran out of cams.
Anyways, If I were you, I would carry some on my rack but I wouldn't buy a whole brand new set, because thats for sure not worth it.
Just my two cents.
(This post was edited by krosbakken on Mar 18, 2009, 4:28 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
brownie710
Mar 18, 2009, 10:54 AM
Post #17 of 141
(19183 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 25, 2007
Posts: 531
|
best brand of hex?...is this a trick question?
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Mar 18, 2009, 11:34 AM
Post #18 of 141
(19172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
dr_feelgood wrote: caleb_danner wrote: vegastradguy wrote: having been foolish enough to actually try and use hexes back when i was learning, i quickly discovered that just about all of today's hexes are, for the most part, useless in most protection scenarios today. tried 'em all...they all sucked. that said, if you feel you really want hexes...go find some old chouinards on ebay...those bad boys were hands down the best hexes i ever used-- mostly because they actually got used. the main reason i want hexes is because I'm on a tight budget and want to try them out and they are good for the anchor So I know the delusion has spread deep, but you may still be salvageable. If you spend $60 on a set of hexes, that is 1-2 cams depending on brand and condition. Why waste your money on shit that you'll use for 3 months and discard as useless? Book a 60 hour work week, and buy a set of cams.
Hexes are good for certain rock types (like limestone....but who really enjoys climbing trad on limestone anyway....), but they're not very useful for most areas.
|
|
|
|
|
patto
Mar 18, 2009, 12:31 PM
Post #19 of 141
(19159 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 15, 2005
Posts: 1453
|
What is with the hate for hexes? They are excellent pro if you can use them correctly. Of course rock various so much from place to place so they suit some places better than others.
They make bomber top roping pieces. We set up 5 top ropes with a couple sets of hexes last weekend. Perfect!
|
|
|
|
|
Wunderkind
Mar 18, 2009, 12:41 PM
Post #20 of 141
(19153 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 7, 2008
Posts: 120
|
Horseshoe Canyon makes a sweet turtle chock and they aren't expensive at all.
|
|
|
|
|
IsayAutumn
Mar 18, 2009, 12:52 PM
Post #21 of 141
(19145 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2008
Posts: 355
|
So this is what I am wondering. I have read many "hex hating" threads, and I am still a bit confused. I realize that cams are going to be the first choice in most cragging situations for on-the-fly pro. But there seem to be many good reasons for having a few hexes. Please refute my reasoning, if you can! buwahaha
(1) Hexes are good in the 'pine for icy, wet, unstable placements where cams would be dangerous.
(2) Hexes make bomber multipitch anchor placements that can save cams for quick insertion while actually climbing the next pitch.
(3) Hexes can be used in a parallel crack if you run out of cams.
(4) Hexes can be used as doubles for certain sizes of passive nuts, instead of getting doubles of those nuts.
(items 3 and 4 are basically to say that hexes are versatile)
(5) Hexes make bomb top-rope anchors, as patto says.
(6) Bailing on a hex is not as big of a kick in the nuts as, say, bailing on a cam.
I ask this in hopes that someone can keep me from buying a few hexes while putting together my trad rack this spring. But right now, I'm about to spend some money on hexes. Can I be stopped? Should I be stopped?
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Mar 18, 2009, 1:11 PM
Post #22 of 141
(19136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
dr_feelgood wrote: So I know the delusion has spread deep, but you may still be salvageable. If you spend $60 on a set of hexes, that is 1-2 cams depending on brand and condition. Why waste your money on shit that you'll use for 3 months and discard as useless? Book a 60 hour work week, and buy a set of cams.
I started leading on hexes. As my rack increased in size, I had to make decisions about what to keep and what to no longer carry. When I acquired a fairly full set of cams, I stopped carrying most of the hexes. I do still carry a few small ones, they are occaisionally useful.
|
|
|
|
|
keinangst
Mar 18, 2009, 1:23 PM
Post #23 of 141
(19124 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2003
Posts: 1408
|
Call me a purist here, but my case for hexes is this:
1. Cheap, obviously
2. Lightweight
3. No moving parts
4. Dyneema-slung versions can be used as runners in a pinch
5. Bail gear in a pinch (see #1)
and the last one:
6. If you're climbing trad routes that were put up with hexes and nuts in the 1970s or 80s, then why not repeat the route in the same style? Especially if the route has good stances for placements. We already have better shoes, ropes and harnesses. How much easier do you want it? Turn that music down and get off my lawn.
YMMV, but I've never felt constrained by having hexes (and no cams) up to 5.9/10, but it depends on the stone and difficulty of placements. If you have a patient belayer and a good stance, use a hex. I suck at placing them in camming positions, but in keyholes and chockstone-type placements, they're bomber.
(btw, I use WC hexcentrics slung with dyneema)
(This post was edited by keinangst on Mar 18, 2009, 1:25 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
shockabuku
Mar 18, 2009, 2:29 PM
Post #24 of 141
(19089 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
|
You might note the pattern here:
1. Used hexes when first building a rack because cams were too expensive.
2. Stopped using hexes.
You'll probably go through the same thing. If you must get them buy somebody's used hexes and save yourself some cash that you can start saving up toward your cams. I have a couple, #10 or 11 or something like that.
It's been so long since I've even seen them that I can't remember.
|
|
|
|
|
the_climber
Mar 18, 2009, 5:09 PM
Post #25 of 141
(19051 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
|
The usefullness of hexes ultimately depends on 2 things.
1- The Type of Rock/Opertunity for protection with hexes in a given area
2- The skill of the climber placing them. Not the technical skill, but rather the skill the climber has at placing hexes.
Certain areas will take hexes more readily, and certain in situations placing a hex over a cam is much safer, icey/dirty cracks, or crack which have mineral precipitaion on the walls for example. Areas like the Canadian Rockies, and Alpine terrain lend themselves to hexes more than other areas. It's not to say hexes are only usefull on those areas. Some will say that 'the shittier the rock, the more usefull hexes become'. There may be some truth to that is some areas, but not in all cases.
Most people place a few hexes and think they are pros at it. There's more to it than that, developing and eye for placements take time. And that goes for any placement with any type of trad gear. The general trad climbing trend has for years been moving towards a "pug a cam and go" theme. I've seen many folks forgo nuts and simply add more small and micro cam instead. This is not a good thing.
Cams are not the end all be all that many will tell you they are, and always remember just because a cam is in the ideal range of expansion it doesn't mean it's a good placement.
Nutcraft is becoming a lost are within the community, and that includes all passive gear and active gear. The sad truth is that the average trad climber of today is far less skilled at placing pro and building anchors than those of decades past.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
