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kagunkie
Oct 28, 2001, 4:35 AM
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A-0 usually involves grabbing a sling with the hand or standing on a sling to reach holds above. It is the simpleist form of aid and can usually be done with nothing more than a regular leading rack and a few extra slings. Go for it!
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rrrADAM
Oct 28, 2001, 6:13 AM
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A0=Bolt Ladder.
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atg200
Oct 30, 2001, 12:27 AM
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It depends on the route. Pendulums and tension traverses are sometimes rated A0, and you need nothing for them. Otherwise, A0 is generally either a bolt ladder or pulling on a piece. For longer sections of A0 1 or 2 daisy chains is very nice.
I had two adjustable daisys on ancient art, and pulled through the two very short bolt ladders in about a minute each. a guy behind me with just slings took 30 minutes for each one. Adjustable daisys are nice!
Anyway, look at the topo. Bring a daisy or two to be safe if it isn't totally clear.
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benjo
Oct 31, 2001, 6:06 PM
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The Stolen Chimney goes free at 5.11a. The first 5.11a is on the first pitch and is a short bolt ladder, so you can just pull on quickdraws to get through it. The next pitch is a fun 5.8 chimney. The next pitch has one move thats probably 5.10- and it is a short bolt ladder that you can just grab draws to get through also. So you don't really need anything extra than you would normally have to aid those sections.
Ben
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atg200
Nov 1, 2001, 1:07 AM
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You may end up pulling on draws on the last corkscrew pitch as well if you are a 5.8 leader - the climbing isn't any harder than 5.8, but it is strange and very exposed.
I used adjustable daisy chains and did the bolt ladders much faster than the guy behind me who yarded on draws, but just yarding on draws work fine on this route too.
Its a classic-but get a very early start. You want to avoid being behind another party if possible.
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apollodorus
Mar 6, 2002, 10:16 AM
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"A0 means a bolt ladder"???? Only on some routes. On others, NO WAY!
A0 means aid without the use of aid slings or etriers (some define 'aid' as the use of etriers...). Basically, it's pulling on gear as if it was a hold, hang-dogging, or standing on top of that bomber hex instead of jamming the crack ("my toes are sore...") A0 is also used for rating the odd penji and the like. "French Free" is a term to mean pulling on gear, and is synonymous with A0. Funny, then, that cheating on a free climb is referred to as French Free climbing. No wonder they hate Americans in Paris.
I'd like to see someone "A0" a very popular "bolt ladder": the Kor Roof on the South Face of the Washington Column in YV. This would probably require some new rating system: A0/FF.12d to indicate that it's French Free at a difficulty and endurance level comparable to a 5.12d free climb. I had to bail off the South Face after waiting in line, watching the car-wreck-on-the-freeway team flail on the Roof for over two hours with little/no progress. And they were trying to C1F it.
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bigwalling
Mar 7, 2002, 1:55 AM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2001
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A0 can be a bolt ladder but that would be more of a new wave grade. Most bolt ladders will be rated A1. But on some free climbs that you have worked real hard on you don't want to rate a great free climb 5.12 A1 because of a short bolt ladder. So like others have said above look at the topo. If it has an A0 grade marked and shows what looks like it could be ladder you might want to bring some light aiders or be really good at french freeing bolt ladders.
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