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cush
Apr 20, 2009, 8:20 PM
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i guess technically this would be a bouldering question but it you tradsters tend to have better crack skills.
on a boulder problem i'm working on there's a roof crack running along the entire top side of it. i'm having a tough time finding good places for my hands. normally when i'm climbing a vertical crack i can use gravity's assistance to lock my hands/fingers in constrictions but here, when the crack runs perpendicular to the pull of gravity the constrictions become useless. any advice?
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climbinginchico
Apr 20, 2009, 8:24 PM
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You've gotta find the constrictions that work in your favor. If there aren't any, jam harder. Look for tiny nubs in the crack you can use. Oh, and the more core strength the better. Gotta keep those feet in the crack too.
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irregularpanda
Apr 20, 2009, 8:33 PM
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cush wrote: when the crack runs perpendicular to the pull of gravity the constrictions become useless. any advice?
Stick your nuts up in the crack. This requires body tension, and pubic hair like a brillo pad.
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camhead
Apr 20, 2009, 8:39 PM
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what size is the crack? what position do you envision your hands or fingers going into it? Will you put feet in it too?
While the whole thing about looking for constrictions is technically true, it is not the best advice for intuitively improving your jamming skills.
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dr_feelgood
Apr 21, 2009, 2:35 AM
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Quit being a pussy. A solid jam hurts.
No brain, no pain.
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spikeddem
Apr 22, 2009, 12:42 AM
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Personally, I think you should aid that shit up, fo sho. Make that bitch go at C1. Better yet, bust out the hammer.
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petsfed
May 7, 2009, 11:52 PM
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camhead wrote: what size is the crack?
This is the critical question. If its hands, just jam harder. If its fingers, that's a whole other kettle of fish.
Ringlocks? Rattly fingers? Bigger than fists? Help us out here.
On hand jams, you can still use constrictions, you just have to position your center of gravity in such a way you're pulling against the constriction. I'll place a low jam (that is, a jam that is relatively close to my waist. If the crack was vertical, the jam would clearly be low) just before a constriction so that I can create opposition between my hand and my foot. I'll place a high jam just past a constriction so that my body pulls my hand into the constriction. The other critical trick is to look for points where the crack flares inward. This creates the kind of constriction that is really easy to hang from.
(This post was edited by petsfed on May 7, 2009, 11:57 PM)
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cush
May 8, 2009, 12:06 AM
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thin fingers
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angry
May 8, 2009, 12:09 AM
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Jam harder.
Sorry man, fingers through a roof by definition are hard.
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graniteboy
May 13, 2009, 6:01 PM
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And the answer Isssssssss...(drum Roll)
SUPERGLUE!!!
If you really, really wanna stay in the crack, this is the only failsafe answer.
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rocknice2
May 15, 2009, 1:29 AM
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Thin Feet
Flatten your feet with a sledge hammer so they can be useful in the crack
(This post was edited by rocknice2 on May 15, 2009, 1:32 AM)
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