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alleyehave
Apr 27, 2009, 6:00 AM
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Anyone know of any decent routes to practice aid in J-Tree? Or Tahquitz? I know of the Pirate at Suicide, just wondering if anyone else had any other insight. I have guidebooks, but it can be a drag to comb through 300 pages of a freeclimbing guidebook to find the one or two aid routes in J-Tree.
Thanks guys!
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majid_sabet
Apr 27, 2009, 7:01 AM
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alleyehave wrote: Anyone know of any decent routes to practice aid in J-Tree? Or Tahquitz? I know of the Pirate at Suicide, just wondering if anyone else had any other insight. I have guidebooks, but it can be a drag to comb through 300 pages of a freeclimbing guidebook to find the one or two aid routes in J-Tree. Thanks guys!
sure
just call me up but you need to be at least a 5.11a+
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esoteric1
Apr 27, 2009, 7:04 AM
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acid crack?
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alleyehave
Apr 28, 2009, 5:19 AM
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wow majid, another post that makes zero sense, weird.
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quiteatingmysteak
Apr 28, 2009, 5:32 AM
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its a joke, if you think about it then it kinda makes sense. Engrish phail though.
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alleyehave
May 18, 2009, 9:28 PM
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Bump?
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rschap
May 19, 2009, 1:20 AM
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As long as you’re not placing pitons I would look at anything hard in the wonderland. If you get there on a weekday or on a non crowded weekend you can try Rubicon. It’s a short finger crack but it always has a line. On Tahquitz you can do the vampire, once again on a non crowded day and no pitons. The only other place I can think of is the Riverside Rock Quarry, it used to be known as the death pit but it’s been cleaned up by some local climbers. It’s mostly sport now but there are some good aid lines left, I think Louie even list a couple in his guide book, I wouldn’t place pitons there either. But the other question and I suppose the one I should have asked first is what type of aid are you looking for, C1 or A5?
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alleyehave
May 19, 2009, 1:26 AM
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rschap wrote: As long as you’re not placing pitons I would look at anything hard in the wonderland. If you get there on a weekday or on a non crowded weekend you can try Rubicon. It’s a short finger crack but it always has a line. On Tahquitz you can do the vampire, once again on a non crowded day and no pitons. The only other place I can think of is the Riverside Rock Quarry, it used to be known as the death pit but it’s been cleaned up by some local climbers. It’s mostly sport now but there are some good aid lines left, I think Louie even list a couple in his guide book, I wouldn’t place pitons there either. But the other question and I suppose the one I should have asked first is what type of aid are you looking for, C1 or A5?
Up to C2, hell i'll even take a bolt ladder, just trying to iron out a few things(sequence and hauling primarily) with a partner before a trip to the valley in June....
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crotch
May 19, 2009, 1:52 AM
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russwalling
May 29, 2009, 5:27 PM
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Does that read Riverside Quarry is closed now????
I don't think it is... better check it out.
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pbcowboy77
May 29, 2009, 6:17 PM
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Sorry I'm not sure what happened to my post.
It said that I heard that the quarry is closed now. I'm not sure if ti's true, but I read on the taco stand that there are new owners and they don't want climbers there. This could be rumor...
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jt512
May 29, 2009, 6:34 PM
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pbcowboy77 wrote: Sorry I'm not sure what happened to my post. It said that I heard that the quarry is closed now. I'm not sure if ti's true, but I read on the taco stand that there are new owners and they don't want climbers there. This could be rumor...
The Riverside Quarry is open for climbing; however, it has been developed into a regional sport climbing destination, with 200-some sport routes. Any sections of rock that remain unbolted are likely to be dangerously loose, and most of the old fixed aid gear has been removed. I doubt that this would be a good area for practice aid climbing anymore.
Jay
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pbcowboy77
May 29, 2009, 6:44 PM
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jt512 wrote: pbcowboy77 wrote: Sorry I'm not sure what happened to my post. It said that I heard that the quarry is closed now. I'm not sure if ti's true, but I read on the taco stand that there are new owners and they don't want climbers there. This could be rumor... The Riverside Quarry is open for climbing; however, it has been developed into a regional sport climbing destination, with 200-some sport routes. Any sections of rock that remain unbolted are likely to be dangerously loose, and most of the old fixed aid gear has been removed. I doubt that this would be a good area for practice aid climbing anymore. Jay
OH NO! The sport climbers found us!!! Quick hide!
Hahaha...
What's up Jay. I haven't seen you in FOREVER! How's Art? You still talk to him?
Zac
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jt512
May 29, 2009, 6:49 PM
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pbcowboy77 wrote: jt512 wrote: pbcowboy77 wrote: Sorry I'm not sure what happened to my post. It said that I heard that the quarry is closed now. I'm not sure if ti's true, but I read on the taco stand that there are new owners and they don't want climbers there. This could be rumor... The Riverside Quarry is open for climbing; however, it has been developed into a regional sport climbing destination, with 200-some sport routes. Any sections of rock that remain unbolted are likely to be dangerously loose, and most of the old fixed aid gear has been removed. I doubt that this would be a good area for practice aid climbing anymore. Jay OH NO! The sport climbers found us!!! Quick hide! Hahaha... What's up Jay. I haven't seen you in FOREVER! How's Art? You still talk to him? Zac
I haven't really talked to Art in months. I think he's a bit burned out on climbing. I'm just coming out of a bit of a burn-out phase myself, and am trying to get back into good climbing shape.
Have you been climbing?
Jay
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pbcowboy77
May 29, 2009, 7:03 PM
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THREAD HIJACK!!!!
I haven't talked to Art in 2 years or so.
I still climb, I try and get to JT as much as I can. I started doing walls about 5 or 6 years ago and focus more on aid that free.
Good to hear from you. Hope to see you sometime. Tell Art I said hi if you talk to him.
Zac
Sorry for the Hijack guys... Back to talking about BIG WALLS!!!!
By the way... Screw Aid practice...JUST GO SEND SOMETHING!!! IT'S F@#KING WALL SEASON IN THE VALLEY!!!
I'm off for the valley in 5 hours!!! WFLT here I come!
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rschap
May 30, 2009, 1:19 AM
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Yeah it’s been bolted and cleaned but the last I heard the guys developing it for sport left some of the better aid routes alone. It’s been years since I talked to Louie about it but he told me about a couple of good practice aid routes still there, I can’t remember them now.
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jackkelly00
Jun 23, 2009, 12:36 AM
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last time i looked, the Grem Parsons boulder near cap rock had a line of bashies going up a seam. Im not sure if they are still there, but check it out.
jk
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