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doubledare
Apr 28, 2009, 7:28 PM
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Registered: Nov 2, 2004
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I admit it. I am a pussy. I'd like to T-rope Triple S before I lead it. Is it impossible? Is it bad ethics? (I would cede the route to a leader obviously, and would not hog the route. Just one run up and down is all I'd like).
I'm thinking I could climb Old Ladies/Windy Notch then rap down to the anchors on top of Triple S.
I've just heard too many horror stories about this route. I've led Ye Gods and Fishes and Crime and Punishment. Is it really that much harder?
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cclarke
Apr 28, 2009, 8:20 PM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2003
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It takes bomber gear from top to bottom. I don't think it is any harder than those other routes. Remember to stem and/chimney off the vertical edges on the left. Do it while it's in the shade because it gets real greasy.
It would be a hassle to set a tr and you'll get in the way of other people. And you'll regret it later.
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budman
Apr 28, 2009, 8:27 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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I remember it takes great gear, especially nuts. Also a couple of great jams as well as good rests. I say go for it as long as your gear is good. You just might be able to pull it off and surprise yourself.
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charley
Apr 28, 2009, 10:03 PM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
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I am not good enough to climb this. I have friends who have and they hqave said it is sustained 5.8 and hard on the calves. One guy says if you fal just push the rack at the rock and something will catch.
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doubledare
Apr 29, 2009, 12:20 PM
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Registered: Nov 2, 2004
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OK. WTF. I decided officially not to be a pussy any longer. I'll just lead it. If the gear is all there, I'll just do it. Worst-case scenario I hang on a piece at the crux. I've led Lichen and leave it also and had no problem.
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scrapedape
Apr 29, 2009, 12:37 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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doubledare wrote: Worst-case scenario I hang on a piece at the crux.
Ha! The crux is about 80 feet long, as I recall. Not that I was leading it...
In reply to: I've led Lichen and leave it also and had no problem.
Totally different style of climbing. I'd put Lichen or Leave it in the same class as The Burn - steep finger crack. Triple S is totally different. Ye Gods is probably the best preparation you can have, even though it's a little easier. The climbing is more sustained, but the rock is also way more solid on Triple S, in my recollection.
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IsayAutumn
Apr 29, 2009, 12:58 PM
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Registered: Oct 8, 2008
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I have never led Triple S, but I have followed it, and it seems like you won't have a problem. Like you said, worst-case scenario is you'll hang on a piece. But the climbing is sustained, and most of the stress is on your calves. The rock quality (and climbing quality) is great.
Get 'er led!
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dreday3000
Apr 29, 2009, 1:21 PM
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Registered: Jun 15, 2006
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doubledare wrote: OK. WTF. I decided officially not to be a pussy any longer. I'll just lead it. If the gear is all there, I'll just do it. Worst-case scenario I hang on a piece at the crux. I've led Lichen and leave it also and had no problem.
Check in and let us know how it goes.
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roninthorne
Apr 29, 2009, 3:34 PM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2002
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Just lead it... it'll make you a better climber and leader if you do...
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doubledare
Jun 22, 2009, 8:19 PM
Post #10 of 11
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Registered: Nov 2, 2004
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My buddy and I flipped for the lead. I lost. He onsighted it. I followed with no hangs of falls. Very doable. I am back for 8 days next week and will lead it it hopefully a couple of times--it's that good.
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joeforte
Jun 24, 2009, 11:44 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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doubledare wrote: OK. WTF. I decided officially not to be a pussy any longer. I'll just lead it. If the gear is all there, I'll just do it. Worst-case scenario I hang on a piece at the crux. I've led Lichen and leave it also and had no problem.
My attitude towards this sorta thing is that you only get one chance to onsight any given climb. Last night I was projecting an unclimbed face on TR right next to a hard crack that I've wanted to lead. I purposely did not touch or try the crack, because I want to try to onsight it, ground up. I feel like you are cheating yourself and the rock if you TR something before you lead it. There are exceptions, particularly if the gear is bad, when headpointing might make more sense. If the gear is good though, just lead it and see what happens!
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