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rockfax
May 5, 2009, 7:27 AM
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Kenton Cool reports for UKClimbing.com from Everest.
"On the 2nd of May, after deliberation and coordination among the leading Everest teams, a small group of Western guides assisted by a number of Sherpas spent most of the morning working on the Yellow Band of Everest. The Yellow Band is situated above Camp 3 on the South (Nepalese) side of the mountain at approximately 7700m. The team cleared away loose rock and cut away old rope, making the forthcoming summit pushes this season a safer proposition."
"In doing this work, a number of bolts were also placed in this area of compact rock."
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=47261
See also:
"Yesterday was a historic day for route making on Everest. Kari Kobler donated his Hilti bolt gun and guides Willie Benegas and Adrian Ballinger drilled six new 10cm Mammut stainless steel bolts up on the Yellow Band to anchor two new ropes — one for up traffic and one for down. Good work you guys. In the process they also cut down over 30kg of old rope. The immediate benificiaries will be the sherpas, who have had to deal with a spider-web of old ropes over the years. Now, this is much safer for them. When the climbers start going up to the Col in the next few days they will find that this makes it a lot faster and less confusing. We are hoping to do the same thing up on the Geneva Spur next, and hopefully up in the rock step below the South Summit too."
Eric Simonson, IMG Expedition Leader at http://www.mountainguides.com/everest-south09.shtml
Best regards,
Mick Ryan
UKClimbing.com
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nattfodd
May 5, 2009, 10:45 AM
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The most interesting bit was not quoted:
In reply to: "It would be easy for the arm chair climber to say that if someone who attempts to climb Everest is not capable of climbing the Yellow Band without fixed rope then they shouldn't be there in the first place, but then this is an argument all about commercialism rather than about placing some bolts. Everest is for better or worse a commercial mountain at least by its two main routes (N Ridge and SE Ridge), and besides each time I have been through the band I have 'Pulled for Glory'. In my mind the fixing of a number of bolts at this spot isn't "murdering the impossible" but a sensible act that will without a doubt save lives of Sherpas, Western climbers and guides alike."
I think the guy has a point. Like it or not, Everest is now a commercial venture, and if this helps save lives and does not degrade the rock too much, then fine. There are plenty of other mountains, or even of other routes on this one, to make everyone happy.
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ja1484
May 5, 2009, 11:13 AM
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When routes reach a certain level of traffic, bolts tend to reduce impact. However, they also tend to have the side effect of bringing even more traffic onto the route.
Everest's main routes have been derided for some time now in the climbing community for being commercial pathways where guides can haul cardiologists in the throes of their mid-life crises up to the top of the thing. I doubt most people will feel this minor salt in the wound.
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edge
May 5, 2009, 12:52 PM
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I heard that Ken Nichols is applying for the necessary permits as we speak.
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taydude
May 5, 2009, 1:09 PM
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Who cares at this point? Everest no longer means anything to any serious climber. The tourists up there certainly won't notice the bolts and it'll make the sherpas' lives easier.
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frogclimber
May 5, 2009, 1:13 PM
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Interesting. I guess this doesn't bother me because I feel like Everest lost what it was years ago...
that said, I really want to know when the escalator is going in.
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fresh
May 5, 2009, 1:21 PM
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I hardly think this will save lives, if that's what they're hoping. as long as there are guided parties, there will always be overcrowded routes, bottlenecks, overambitious retards, pressure on the guides to summit, etc. it will make a cleaner, more aesthetic route though.
but I'm just armchairing this.
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cfnubbler
May 5, 2009, 1:21 PM
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nattfodd wrote: The most interesting bit was not quoted: In reply to: "It would be easy for the arm chair climber to say that if someone who attempts to climb Everest is not capable of climbing the Yellow Band without fixed rope then they shouldn't be there in the first place, but then this is an argument all about commercialism rather than about placing some bolts. Everest is for better or worse a commercial mountain at least by its two main routes (N Ridge and SE Ridge), and besides each time I have been through the band I have 'Pulled for Glory'. In my mind the fixing of a number of bolts at this spot isn't "murdering the impossible" but a sensible act that will without a doubt save lives of Sherpas, Western climbers and guides alike." I think the guy has a point. Like it or not, Everest is now a commercial venture, and if this helps save lives and does not degrade the rock too much, then fine. There are plenty of other mountains, or even of other routes on this one, to make everyone happy.
If this is true (I don't deny it is), then perhaps a more measured response would be to consider the appropriateness of the current level of commercial use before bolting the world's highest peak. We're talking hallowed ground for climbers and more importantly a sacred place for local folks. Mallory is rolling over in his grave (metaphorically speaking that is...)
Just sayin....
(This post was edited by cfnubbler on May 5, 2009, 1:22 PM)
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JasonsDrivingForce
May 5, 2009, 1:22 PM
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frogclimber wrote: that said, I really want to know when the escalator is going in.
Naw, the escalator wouldn’t have a good view. They will put a ski lift in though! One of those nice 15 passenger ones with heat and an LCD monitor playing a DVD of the history of the mountain they just “Ascended”.
I do think it will help the sherpas though. Remember, the sherpas aren’t in this for thrill of climbing. They get paid for what they do, right? The whole thing is commercial. That is life.
If you want an uninhabited new territory then I heard the moon is pretty much untouched. Mars isn’t so bad either but the trip out is pretty grueling.
(This post was edited by JasonsDrivingForce on May 5, 2009, 1:23 PM)
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roy_hinkley_jr
May 5, 2009, 2:30 PM
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taydude wrote: Who cares at this point? Everest no longer means anything to any serious climber.
Any serious climber would know that there are more than two routes on Everest and it's still bad-ass to climb them. Lots of room for new routes too but nobody has the balls these days.
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Lazlo
May 5, 2009, 2:41 PM
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Can I add my own ignorant opinion?
Okay, I'll do it anyway.
I think that's awesome. If you're placing fixed lines that an ENTIRE SEASON of climbers will be clipping in to....it really should be a bolt instead of snow/ice pro or pitons.
It hasn't lowered the skill necessary.
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kachoong
May 5, 2009, 3:06 PM
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NEWS: Bolts disappear from Everest!
In reply to: A lone unidentified man was seen yesterday descending to Camp 3 in the Western Cwn with a bag of tools and a shit-eating grin. Bumbly, frost-bitten eye-witnesses at the Yellow Band say the man was flailing his arms, swiping climbers away as he sawed meticulously at the rock mumbling things like "...damn sport...my route...trad crag...armchair wannabees..." and finally, as he plodded off "...if it's the last thing I do...". It appeared that the unkempt man busily hurried himself to remove six new bolts that had been recently installed on the famous mountain. His cries of "I'll chop your fecking route! You watch!" were quickly muffled by the basting wind. The man had mysteriously appeared at Basecamp two days earlier with no Sherpas or climbing companions. His identity obscured by drab raggy clothes and a beard, except for a small patch on his tattered down vest that read "Forever Trad". An unverified source has indicated that the man had flown into Kathmandu five days earlier from Denver, CO.
(This post was edited by kachoong on May 5, 2009, 3:14 PM)
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ja1484
May 5, 2009, 3:36 PM
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taydude wrote: Who cares at this point? Everest no longer means anything to any serious climber. The tourists up there certainly won't notice the bolts and it'll make the sherpas' lives easier.
I don't think that's quite an accurate assessment.
I haven't done Everest, but basic physiology makes it clear that survival in that environment is no small feat by itself, hard technical climbing or no hard technical climbing.
I also think it would be premature to say Everest "no longer means anything to any serious climber". I'm sure guys like...Benegas and Ballinger would disagree, and if they aren't serious climbers, who is?
There's an awful lot of "feedback" in here from people who aren't really in a position to judge - and I can include myself in that category.
I would just advise people to be cautious when speaking for "serious" climbers on rc.n00b.
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Johnny_Fang
May 5, 2009, 4:37 PM
Post #17 of 27
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how many draws do i need to get up everest?
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curt
May 5, 2009, 4:48 PM
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Johnny_Fang wrote: how many draws do i need to get up everest?
...depends on whether you will do it in a single pitch--or break it up.
Curt
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cfnubbler
May 5, 2009, 4:52 PM
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curt wrote: Johnny_Fang wrote: how many draws do i need to get up everest? ...depends on whether you will do it in a single pitch--or break it up. Curt
You can't really claim a free ascent if you break it up with a hanging belay in the middle of the yellow band, Curt. Come on. I expect more from a guy with your experience.
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Lazlo
May 5, 2009, 5:33 PM
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ja1484 wrote: taydude wrote: Who cares at this point? Everest no longer means anything to any serious climber. The tourists up there certainly won't notice the bolts and it'll make the sherpas' lives easier. I don't think that's quite an accurate assessment. I haven't done Everest, but basic physiology makes it clear that survival in that environment is no small feat by itself, hard technical climbing or no hard technical climbing. I also think it would be premature to say Everest "no longer means anything to any serious climber". I'm sure guys like...Benegas and Ballinger would disagree, and if they aren't serious climbers, who is? There's an awful lot of "feedback" in here from people who aren't really in a position to judge - and I can include myself in that category. I would just advise people to be cautious when speaking for "serious" climbers on rc.n00b.
I think Rob Hall and Andy Harris consider it to be a serious climb.
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dynosore
May 5, 2009, 6:42 PM
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I'm floored by some of the logic here. The main route on Everest gets a few bolts and cleaned up, and people are talking like it's a cakewalk. But my 5.12 50 ft. bolted project is epic, yo. 
I think Everest has plenty of remaining challenges and few of us are up to any of them. It's a shame how commercialized it has become, but it's still respectable feat to get to the top in my book. I've only been at 19000 ft but the air was alreay thin enough for me.
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fresh
May 5, 2009, 7:50 PM
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yeah I wouldn't say that the bolts are anything to whine about. there are a ton of bolts on cliffs I love that I believe make the routes better.
I'm gonna add some more armchair banter cuz I can't resist. what I really don't like are 1. guided ascents and 2. the use of supplemental oxygen (except for rescues). I think they lead to deaths and meaningless summits.
but then, I climb with cobras and pull on gear when necessary. I guess we all choose our level of purity. anything more than naked free soloing is a compromise, anything less than the best affordable technology is contrived difficulty.
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rangerrob
May 5, 2009, 11:27 PM
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Who cares. I'm never hiring a guide to take me up a mountain, and I'm never going to Everest. There are much nicer looking mountains that are a lot cleaner, cheaper, and harder. Bolt the whole damned thing as far as I'm concerned
RR
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