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aclimbinfool
May 10, 2009, 1:14 PM
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Any opinions on using 1/2 ply(real ply) for woodie? I have enought to double up the thickness, just trying to get away with less labor/materials. I probably will double up the layers of ply wood to make 1" thick. Just wondering is anyone has used 1/2 before. And what were the results?
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scottek67
May 10, 2009, 1:43 PM
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aclimbinfool
May 10, 2009, 2:22 PM
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190lbs. does that make me FAT? I'd use 3/4 but the 1/2 is left over from a job & free.
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rocknice2
May 10, 2009, 2:37 PM
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I used 3/4 with 24" stud span. Flexs somewhat but OK. You might bbe able to get away with 1/2 " but spans need to be closer. 1" shoujd be rock solid
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rschap
May 10, 2009, 2:51 PM
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The thinner plywood you use the closer the studs have to be together and therefore the more studs you have to use to keep it from flexing. If you’re looking to save a little money I’d look for ¾” CDX it’s a lower grade ply as far as looks but it’s just as strong. Edit to add: if you double it up it would be plenty strong. I would laminate the sheets together with wood glue and pressure.
(This post was edited by rschap on May 10, 2009, 2:55 PM)
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Carnage
May 10, 2009, 5:41 PM
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i dunno about strength and stuff, but i recently put up a small woodie using 3/4" plywood. I had a few kinds of tnuts to use. some of them were almost too tall so they almost popped out the front (the tnut was not flush with the front of the plywood) so if you do go with the thinner wood, make sure the tnuts you get fit it.
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synrock
May 10, 2009, 6:28 PM
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Well 1/2" ply has a problem in that the t-nuts will end up sticking out the front of the wall through the holes.
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BenC
May 10, 2009, 8:56 PM
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1/2" will be fine, as people have said place your studs a little closer together. The 1/2" will flex so keep the angle it is bieng mouted at in mind. 3/4" on overhangs, 1/2" on vertical. The t-nuts shouldn't stick all the way through,they don't on my wall, but no gurantee.
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bill413
May 11, 2009, 2:33 AM
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BenC wrote: 1/2" will be fine, as people have said place your studs a little closer together. The 1/2" will flex so keep the angle it is bieng mouted at in mind. 3/4" on overhangs, 1/2" on vertical. The t-nuts shouldn't stick all the way through,they don't on my wall, but no gurantee. I believe (hmmm...matters of faith?) that there are long "sleeved" and short "sleeved" T-nuts. So, short ones would be used with 1/2", longer ones for 3/4" Don't know relative strength / merit / etc. of them.
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BenC
May 11, 2009, 2:51 AM
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bill413 wrote: BenC wrote: 1/2" will be fine, as people have said place your studs a little closer together. The 1/2" will flex so keep the angle it is bieng mouted at in mind. 3/4" on overhangs, 1/2" on vertical. The t-nuts shouldn't stick all the way through,they don't on my wall, but no gurantee. I believe (hmmm...matters of faith?) that there are long "sleeved" and short "sleeved" T-nuts. So, short ones would be used with 1/2", longer ones for 3/4" Don't know relative strength / merit / etc. of them. I have not noticed any different lengths of t-nut, I also have not been looking. On 3/4", the t-nuts I've used are well recessed. On 1/2", the are recessed slightly or flush.
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salamanizer
May 11, 2009, 3:31 AM
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Flexing and stud spacing will be a minor irritation with 1/2 in plywood compaired to when you start ripping your T-nuts through the wall. Light use on a vertical wall shouldn't be a problem, but if you build an overhanging wall and start dynoing to jugs, it would be a good idea to keep a crash pad under you.
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jgross
May 11, 2009, 12:39 PM
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I have used 1/2" for vertical panels with no problems. I agree that for more overhanging sections, 3/4" is a better idea.
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