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Crack_Addict_Ty
May 11, 2009, 2:02 PM
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So I did my first trad lead yesterday up at Taylors Falls, MN. I climbed "Blue Moon" - a 5.5 jug fest with really good placements for passive pro and the occasional cam. I have done one "mock lead" before on another route, and I climbed as a second on Blue Moon immediately prior to leading it myself to get a feel for the placements, so this was by no means an onsight attempt or anything. I feel good about doing it still and I am super pumped to lead some more routes. Being on the sharp end is a great rush. Sport-leading doesn't have the same feeling to me. I've only been climbing since September 08 and a large chunk of my experience involves pulling on plastic. Outside, I am pretty confident on 10c and lower, so the climbing part of the trad line I did was very easy, but with my lack of experience I have a very undeveloped "leaders head". I wanted to make sure I wasn't going to fall on my first attempt at trad........lol. Anyway, cheers to us trad nOObs!
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bill413
May 11, 2009, 2:11 PM
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Welcome to trad!
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coolcat83
May 11, 2009, 2:52 PM
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congrats! may the addiction grow!
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kennoyce
May 11, 2009, 2:54 PM
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Nice job, be safe and have fun.
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iron106
May 11, 2009, 2:59 PM
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You never forget your first.
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Gmburns2000
May 11, 2009, 3:02 PM
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WOOOOOO!!!!
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rockandlice
May 11, 2009, 3:09 PM
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Now the fun starts!
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justroberto
May 11, 2009, 6:42 PM
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iron106 wrote: You never forget your first. Unless you're black-out drunk...
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TJGoSurf
May 11, 2009, 9:14 PM
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I hate to sound like a ball buster but so? And I will have you know, I do not consider you a trad climber until you've taken a big fall on your gear.
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jt512
May 11, 2009, 9:23 PM
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TJGoSurf wrote: I hate to sound like a ball buster but so? And I will have you know, I do not consider you a trad climber until you've taken a big fall on your gear. Who the fuck are you that he should care what you do or do not consider him? Jay
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TJGoSurf
May 11, 2009, 9:27 PM
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And who are you? You're just another jerk off on the internet. Go fuck yourself, you injecting yourself in this. One because you're bored and then I respect that. Or you're a whiny bitch who takes offense over the slightest bit of difference in opinion. In closing, shut up and go find someone else to bitch about.
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jt512
May 11, 2009, 9:33 PM
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TJGoSurf wrote: And who are you? You're just another jerk off on the internet. Go fuck yourself, you injecting yourself in this. One because you're bored and then I respect that. Or you're a whiny bitch who takes offense over the slightest bit of difference in opinion. In closing, shut up and go find someone else to bitch about. What's funny is the guy who you don't consider a real trad climber, already climbs almost two number grades harder than you on sport, and within weeks will probably out-climb you on trad. It won't be long before he doesn't consider you, the 5.8 wonder, a real trad climber. Jay
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TJGoSurf
May 11, 2009, 9:35 PM
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Yeah because updating my rockclimbing.com profile is so important to my life. I love how you went straight for climbing ratings, that shows what an insignificant prick you are. Keep it down keyboard tough guy.
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Crack_Addict_Ty
May 11, 2009, 9:57 PM
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TJGoSurf wrote: I hate to sound like a ball buster but so? And I will have you know, I do not consider you a trad climber until you've taken a big fall on your gear. When I first read your post (and the subsequent rants of unprovoked profanity and insults) I figured this thread had died and I'd leave it alone. The more I think about it though, the more your response confuses me. Falling while climbing means a few things: your technique is off or under-developed, you are pushing your strength limits, or you made some sort of mistake. Trad climbing is simply making a run up a line while placing and clipping your own pro as you climb. The consequences and risks in the event of a fall are the same on a 5.5 route as they are on a 5.14, assuming the rating for gear placements are the same (i.e. both are G, PG, PG-13, etc). I see where you are coming from in regards to falling while on lead and how that will add another dimension to climbing on the sharp end, but they call it trad "climbing", not trad "falling, dude. I am not trying to proclaim that I earned some new title in the climbing world as a "trad climber", but I sure feel as if I reached another milestone in my 8 month climbing career. Sorry for sharing a weekend accomplishment of a climbing newbie in the beginners forum.
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TJGoSurf
May 11, 2009, 9:59 PM
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Jay dropped the F bomb first. It's like nuclear war, one side starts launching nukes so does the other side. Yes it is climbing, and I lead for months without falling. When Shrimps learn to whistle finally got me. Its a 5.10 I think, a good 40 foot fall woke me up.
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jt512
May 11, 2009, 10:15 PM
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TJGoSurf wrote: Yeah because updating my rockclimbing.com profile is so important to my life. It's amazing how those profiles always happen to be out of date.
In reply to: I love how you went straight for climbing ratings... Ratings are a direct indication of climbing skill, and I was curious what the skill level was of someone who thinks his opinion of what "a real trad climber" is matters.
In reply to: ...that shows what an insignificant prick you are. The fact that you only climb 5.8 shows what an insignificant climber you are.
In reply to: Keep it down keyboard tough guy. This internet tough is pretty tough at the crag, compared to you, anyway Jay
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TJGoSurf
May 11, 2009, 10:20 PM
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Wow. You just keep answering. Too many hits to the head? I'm going to keep talking and you're going to keep answering. Because you're retarded. Are you saying all those guys on ESPN can't make their comments because they aren't as good as the pros? Are you saying you can't have an opinion about the politics of our government because you're not a politician? Are you saying generals cant make command decisions even if the majority of them right now has never seen actual combat? You went for the obvious thing that I know you would. You're just a dumb little man, its ok we forgive you. Now just go lay back down like the dog you are.
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jt512
May 11, 2009, 10:21 PM
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Crack_Addict_Ty wrote: TJGoSurf wrote: I hate to sound like a ball buster but so? And I will have you know, I do not consider you a trad climber until you've taken a big fall on your gear. The consequences and risks in the event of a fall are the same on a 5.5 route as they are on a 5.14, assuming the rating for gear placements are the same (i.e. both are G, PG, PG-13, etc). That isn't true, which is one reason (among many) that Shit-for-brains's comment was totally inappropriate. Most easy trad clmbs are disastrous to fall on because the angle of the climb is low and/or the route is ledgy. If you fall on an easy trad climb, usually you will hit something. In contrast, harder trad climbs are more likely to be steep enough that the falls will be clean. There's an old rule of thumb that you shouldn't fall on 5.single-digit trad. Jay
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jt512
May 11, 2009, 10:22 PM
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TJGoSurf wrote: Wow. You just keep answering. Too many hits to the head? I'm going to keep talking and you're going to keep answering. No. You're going to keep talking, and I'm going to killfile you. Jay
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TJGoSurf
May 11, 2009, 10:32 PM
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rockandlice wrote: TJGoSurf wrote: And who are you? You're just another jerk off on the internet. Hey Pot! Meet my friend Kettle. I was including myself.
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xtrmecat
May 11, 2009, 10:36 PM
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Good for you, hope it was as fun as you made it sound. Do not worry about the "lead head" yet, it will come with mileage. Just keep at it. As for the hijackers, would you please take your dick bumping contest elsewhere, were trying to enjoy ourselves, and well, you distract us and definitely bring down the whole first lead tone. Bob
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kennoyce
May 11, 2009, 10:45 PM
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In reply to: Are you saying all those guys on ESPN can't make their comments because they aren't as good as the pros? most of them were pro's
In reply to: Are you saying you can't have an opinion about the politics of our government because you're not a politician? You can have an opinion, just keep it to yourself until it is based on fact.
In reply to: Are you saying generals cant make command decisions even if the majority of them right now has never seen actual combat? They were trained to do that.
In reply to: we forgive you. You have multiple personalities? I'm going to side with Jay and say that you have no clue what you're talking about. You should never fall on an easy trad climb because the risk of injury is much higher. It's sport climbers like you who try trad climbing and end up getting themselves killed because they don't realize that trad climbing is inherently more dangerous than sport.
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krosbakken
May 11, 2009, 11:36 PM
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Hey congrats on your first trad lead, that climb was also one of my first trad climbs. But my very first was Sonnie and Janita at Taylors Falls. Keep it going, it only gets better and taylors falls has tons of really great trad climbs. It is one of my favorite places.
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no_email_entered
May 12, 2009, 12:09 AM
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oh, now i remember what this thread was about--- ---good work. welcome to the rest of your life. [my only ball busting is in your phrasing of 'getting it out of the way'. sounds like you're hanging up the gear now---instead of lying awake nights thinking of the thousands and thousands of incredible lines that are waiting for you---]
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