Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
Trad Shoes
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


kirkiboi


May 12, 2009, 8:04 PM
Post #1 of 23 (3335 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 22, 2008
Posts: 38

Trad Shoes
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Im hoping to get some experience trad climbing this summer and was wondering if anyone had any good recommendations for a get pair of lace-ups. Cheaper is better but not the only thing im looking at.

thanks to any responses


duncanlennon


May 12, 2009, 8:14 PM
Post #2 of 23 (3313 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 6, 2006
Posts: 109

Re: [kirkiboi] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

For cheap, durable trad shoes, you can do much worse than Five Ten Spires or (not so cheap) Huecos. Both smear and jam very well; not so much on overhangs or hard edging.


hafilax


May 12, 2009, 8:22 PM
Post #3 of 23 (3300 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [kirkiboi] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What kind of trad climbing? Pure jamming or a bit of everything?


Tipton


May 12, 2009, 8:22 PM
Post #4 of 23 (3298 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 12, 2007
Posts: 272

Re: [duncanlennon] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Moccasyms and Spires are the same price at my local shop. I got my Moccasyms to replace my old Spires and they are a much better all around shoe.


kirkiboi


May 12, 2009, 8:25 PM
Post #5 of 23 (3295 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 22, 2008
Posts: 38

Re: [hafilax] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Im going to be in Yosemite if that helps(so...little bit of everything). I have a pair of Katanas I bought from rei about 5 months ago bug iv heard that the laces are favored over the velcro when climbing cracks.


krusher4


May 12, 2009, 8:32 PM
Post #6 of 23 (3271 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2005
Posts: 997

Re: [kirkiboi] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I would say mytho's or trad masters.


duncanlennon


May 12, 2009, 8:40 PM
Post #7 of 23 (3263 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 6, 2006
Posts: 109

Re: [Tipton] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Tipton wrote:
I got my Moccasyms to replace my old Spires and they are a much better all around shoe.

I agree for sure but he said lace-ups. To the OP, the laces vs slipper/velcro thing is mostly preference. It's all about how secure your foot feels in a given shoe. Many people feel that a lace-up fits more snugly when jamming. I would take a look at other options when picking a shoe; as Tipton said, the Moccasym is a deal and a great boot.


hafilax


May 12, 2009, 8:57 PM
Post #8 of 23 (3246 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [duncanlennon] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

For all around use you can get away with a wide range of shoe designs as long as they fit well with flat toes. That means snug enough so that you can edge and big enough that they don't cause any extra pain. Foot jamming with bent toes is not fun at all and sometimes foot pain limits performance more than hand strength and technique. General use shoes tend to be laceups but don't necessarily limit yourself to that design. If you find a velcro or slipper that fits the bill then go for it.

All the cheap laceups will work the same although they typically don't last very long. Something that is board lasted will be comfy for jamming but will lack sensitivity. If you get an unlined shoe like the Mythos or Spire you'll have to size them small initially because they will stretch big time. It's more art than science getting the sizing of an unlined shoe right.

Personally I'm a huge fan of the Scarpa Techno although it's on the expensive side. It's like a modernized Mythos (which is another excellent shoe). I hated my Tradmasters and Spires.


styndall


May 12, 2009, 8:59 PM
Post #9 of 23 (3244 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 29, 2002
Posts: 2741

Re: [kirkiboi] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

kirkiboi wrote:
Im going to be in Yosemite if that helps(so...little bit of everything). I have a pair of Katanas I bought from rei about 5 months ago bug iv heard that the laces are favored over the velcro when climbing cracks.

If you sized the Katanas really small, crack climbing with them will hurt. I don't think the lace vs velcro thing is as important as a jamming comfort.

My favorite crack shoes are really old (pre-logo switch) Sportivas.


petsfed


May 12, 2009, 9:13 PM
Post #10 of 23 (3221 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599

Re: [kirkiboi] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

I climb almost exclusively in Katanas, and my local area is all cracks. If your toes are flat, they are incredibly good for jamming.

However, I wear face climbing shoes when climbing traditionally protected face routes, and I wear crack shoes when I climb bolted cracks. There's no such thing as a "Trad" shoe. Just face shoes, crack shoes, and all arounders.

Moccaysms are also really good all-arounders, although they suck it up pretty bad on really hard edging. Good for smearing and jamming once broken in.

Don't get sucked into that "laces are better for jamming" dogma. If it laces to the toe, you'll have an incredibly adjustable shoe, but sharp cracks will chew those laces to the point that you'll replace them daily. Most good crack shoes don't lace to the toe (which is why velcro and slippers are so popular on cracks), have a medium-stiffness midsoles, and fit so your toes aren't curled much (if at all), but are tight enough to still give you some precision. Note that Moccs and mythos (two old standbys) are so soft that they provide literally zero support. You're going entirely on foot strength there.


trenchdigger


May 12, 2009, 9:33 PM
Post #11 of 23 (3199 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 9, 2003
Posts: 1447

Re: [kirkiboi] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

kirkiboi wrote:
Im hoping to get some experience trad climbing this summer and was wondering if anyone had any good recommendations for a get pair of lace-ups. Cheaper is better but not the only thing im looking at.

thanks to any responses

Hmm... in my mind there is no "trad shoe." Trad climbing varies so much in style that there's no single shoe that is best for it all.

There are good shoes for wide cracks - those with stiff soles and high ankles. Then there are good ones for thin cracks - those with chiseled toes and thin/soft/sensitive soles. And then there are good ones for dime edging those last few moves at the end of a 40' runout slab - those that curl your toes up giving all the possible edging finesse that can be mustered.

Look at the shoes you have now and see where you're lacking, or decide the type of trad you like most and pick the shoe that fits best, both on your foot and with the type of climbing you plan to do most.


dynamo_


May 13, 2009, 1:44 PM
Post #12 of 23 (3083 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 13, 2005
Posts: 275

Re: [petsfed] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What Petsfed said...I like Mythos for most everything, Katanas for pure face routes.

petsfed wrote:
However, I wear face climbing shoes when climbing traditionally protected face routes, and I wear crack shoes when I climb bolted cracks.

What?


(This post was edited by dynamo_ on May 13, 2009, 1:45 PM)


Partner angry


May 13, 2009, 1:56 PM
Post #13 of 23 (3072 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405

Re: [dynamo_] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Join the BICA (Bolt Indian Creek Alliance).


krusher4


May 13, 2009, 2:00 PM
Post #14 of 23 (3066 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2005
Posts: 997

Re: [kirkiboi] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

back to talking about shoes, I have a pair of Ballet Golds (does anyone wear these anymore?) and they are killer for hand/wide cracks you can't feel a thing under your feet but man are they comfy for jamm'in and all day alpine rock.


scrapedape


May 13, 2009, 2:00 PM
Post #15 of 23 (3065 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 2392

Re: [angry] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

angry wrote:
Join the BICA (Bolt Indian Creek Alliance).

It's truly a good cause - dedicated to Fair Access for those who don't own sixty cams.

I joined last year.


Partner angry


May 13, 2009, 2:10 PM
Post #16 of 23 (3051 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405

Re: [scrapedape] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

scrapedape wrote:
angry wrote:
Join the BICA (Bolt Indian Creek Alliance).

It's truly a good cause - dedicated to Fair Access for those who don't own sixty cams.

I joined last year.

I proposed garage openers on the gates to Friends of the Creek. If you pay a certain amount they give you a garage opener and you don't have to get out of your car to go through the gates. Totally unnecessary but I bet they would sell.


dynamo_


May 13, 2009, 2:10 PM
Post #17 of 23 (3050 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 13, 2005
Posts: 275

Re: [angry] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

angry wrote:
Join the BICA (Bolt Indian Creek Alliance).

Headed there a week from Saturday...first time...any pointers?

My crowbar can't be carried on, guess the BICA will have a reprieve.


granite_grrl


May 13, 2009, 2:30 PM
Post #18 of 23 (3034 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084

Re: [angry] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

angry wrote:
scrapedape wrote:
angry wrote:
Join the BICA (Bolt Indian Creek Alliance).

It's truly a good cause - dedicated to Fair Access for those who don't own sixty cams.

I joined last year.

I proposed garage openers on the gates to Friends of the Creek. If you pay a certain amount they give you a garage opener and you don't have to get out of your car to go through the gates. Totally unnecessary but I bet they would sell.
I would put a bottle opener on them just to make sure.


petsfed


May 13, 2009, 5:03 PM
Post #19 of 23 (2986 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599

Re: [dynamo_] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

dynamo_ wrote:
What Petsfed said...I like Mythos for most everything, Katanas for pure face routes.

petsfed wrote:
However, I wear face climbing shoes when climbing traditionally protected face routes, and I wear crack shoes when I climb bolted cracks.

What?

Making the point that trad doesn't necessarily mean crack climbing, nor does sport necessarily mean face climbing.

Besides, how else do you protect a 20 inch chimney devoid of any smaller cracks?


(This post was edited by petsfed on May 13, 2009, 5:15 PM)


petsfed


May 13, 2009, 5:22 PM
Post #20 of 23 (2965 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599

Re: [petsfed] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Just to be clear, the last time that I climbed a bolted hand crack, I was looking for a warmup, anything, because I dunno about you, I can't just hop on a steep 11c sport climb cold. I'm not angry for Christ's sake.

And you better believe I was pissed about it. It was perfect hands for 80 feet. With a rack of cams, it would've been a 4 star route anywhere in the world. But with the bolts, you realize that there's a lot more to cruiser hands than just the movement (which actually got kind of monotonous by the end). To add insult to injury, I live 20 minutes from one of the better crack climbing areas in the country, and I had driven the 7 hours to this sport area because I wanted to go climb featured faces for a change. Fortunately, I had packed my katanas, as all of my other shoes (except my JBs, which climb faces about as well as I do) were off for resole. And they performed just as well on primo hands as they did on thin edging and monopockets. Like I said, I'm a fan of them.


dynamo_


May 13, 2009, 11:27 PM
Post #21 of 23 (2888 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 13, 2005
Posts: 275

Re: [petsfed] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

petsfed wrote:
Making the point that trad doesn't necessarily mean crack climbing, nor does sport necessarily mean face climbing.

Besides, how else do you protect a 20 inch chimney devoid of any smaller cracks?

I gotcha...a bolt does not a sport climb make...

I am personally fond of sketchball, runout granite slab and face climbs...ala, LCC or Western North Carolina...

BUT, the fewer bolts the better...


climbingaggie03


May 14, 2009, 12:41 AM
Post #22 of 23 (2871 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 18, 2004
Posts: 1172

Re: [kirkiboi] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Just to throw my 2 cents in my favorite shoes for all day routes are some 5.10 ascents that are on their 3rd resole, ultra comfy and broken in, I can wear them all day if I want, but they climb well. I prefer the velcro especially for long routes cause you can slip them on and off easily and they fit snug when they are velcroed. Also they're nice and smooth between the tops of my toes and the rock if I'm jamming.


getsomeethics


May 14, 2009, 12:46 AM
Post #23 of 23 (2868 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 2, 2002
Posts: 313

Re: [duncanlennon] Trad Shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

duncanlennon wrote:
For cheap, durable trad shoes, you can do much worse than Five Ten Spires or (not so cheap) Huecos. Both smear and jam very well; not so much on overhangs or hard edging.

I have had a pair of Huecos long enough to have them resoled 3 times. Great shoe for smearing and crack; highly recommend them.


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook