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michaelmay513
Oct 6, 2003, 2:04 AM
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Is there any books that can help teach solo aid? I understand the concept of regular aid, but how does it work w/o a belayer?
Thanks
Mike
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dlintz
Oct 6, 2003, 3:33 AM
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In reply to: I understand the concept of regular aid
Have you actually done any aid climbing? If not I would recommend finding a partner and learning "regular" aid including how to bail/back off first.
On that note I will admit that my first outdoor experience was solo aiding a 30' concrete crack in a 30 year old train bridge foundation. I used 4 different sized stoppers. I tried it the first time with only 3 stoppers but couldn't finish out the last 3 feet (couldn't climb or reach the top either) so I bailed off, went to my local outdoor shop, bought a #8 Metolius curve nut, and headed back up the crack.
I wouldn't recommend this method of learning.
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ricardol
Oct 10, 2003, 11:19 PM
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check out pete's profile and follow the links to his articles (passthepitonspete)
he has lots of information on self-belayed aid and other stuff
-- ricardo
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whitefingers
Oct 10, 2003, 11:23 PM
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See the yo-yo? BE the yo-yo :lol:
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kindredlion
Oct 10, 2003, 11:35 PM
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there is no spoon
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strider
Oct 11, 2003, 12:27 AM
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texplorer
Oct 18, 2003, 12:12 AM
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Nice response strider. I might also add its alot of f@#$ing work.
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wallrat
May 13, 2009, 6:39 AM
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[quote "strider"]To actually answer the question; as far as I know there is no published source for info on solo-aid climbing. I do not have a copy, but Freedom of the Hills might have a description, it seems to have almost everything else. To describe the process simply, you tie one end of the rope to an anchor on the ground, underneath the climb. A sling around a boulder or a trad anchor oriented for an upwards pull or any number of other methods. Then you start aiding up. The rope runs from the bottom anchor to your harness and through a belay device of some kind (clove hitch, solo aid, soloist, silent partner, gri-gri, etc... a backup is always advisable) When you reach the top of the pitch you set up another anchor oriented for both upwards and downwards pull. Then you rappel back down to your bottom anchor. There you will set the bag free and then jug/clean the pitch. When you reach the top again you start hauling and then start the process all over again. If you intend to try this I hope you have the appropriate experience. If you are doing this FYI then there it is.
-n[/quote] YOu forgot to add that you have to rap down three times each pitch to free the #!*&($#@!bag when it gets stuck, and then go back up again. Um-humm, loads of fun.
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boymeetsrock
May 13, 2009, 3:50 PM
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Nice 6 year old thread resurrection.
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wallrat
May 14, 2009, 12:25 AM
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Oops, sorry. I don't live here, so it was new to me.
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boymeetsrock
May 14, 2009, 2:06 AM
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ha ha No sweat!
I've been perusing these threads lately. Always fun to run into other folks rummaging around!
edit: ADD moment
(This post was edited by boymeetsrock on May 14, 2009, 2:07 AM)
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Allanon124
Aug 14, 2009, 5:56 PM
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yup.
expecialy if you use a shunt to free climb each previously aided pitch......whew!
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kevinhansen
Sep 23, 2009, 5:57 AM
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wallrat wrote: [quote "strider"]To describe the process simply.....There you will set the bag free and then jug/clean the pitch. When you reach the top again you start hauling and then start the process all over again. -n[/quote] YOu forgot to add that you have to rap down three times each pitch to free the #!*&($#@!bag when it gets stuck, and then go back up again. Um-humm, loads of fun.
I've been down from Spaceshot in Zion for 3 days now. I rope soloed it and BOY does it suck when the bags get stuck. A trick I learned is flip the red tab on your Protrax or Minitrax as your hauling and let the pig free fall for twenty feet or so. Sometimes the pig will swing to the left or right and not hit the same roof and get hung up. I've yet to employ "far-end hauling" but I can see one day I'll need to.
I used PTPP's "tag line" system on this wall for the first time ever. I like not having 80 pounds of gear hanging on your shoulders, the down side is tagging to get a key piece of gear you need as your standing on a shifting brown tricam. I think I will still tag in the future, but I'll keep more than 5 pieces of gear on me.
I also used his "catch line" method to attach the portaledge to the pig. I learned why its called a catch line too. Even though It gets hung up on stuff sometimes, I will still use it.
I learned to solo aid by reading as much Pass the Pitons Pete liturature I could. Took me days staring at drawings and bug eyed at the screen, but I figured it out.
In the end Soloing takes 4EVER and is three times the work, after every wall I think, "Man!! I have to find a partner!"
Kevin
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