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bill413
May 18, 2009, 5:33 PM
Post #26 of 38
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ford4x4 wrote: hm lets see the diffrence between hexes and nuts... nuts go clink clink when you climb and hexes go BONG and can be heard from a mile away
And ninjas need to use nuts.
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alleyehave
May 18, 2009, 5:47 PM
Post #27 of 38
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rockandlice wrote: alleyehave wrote: I found it weird that nobody mentioned that hexes work in parallel cracks, while nuts do not. Perhaps you have a filter that eliminates the first two replies to every thread? 
Let me live in this bubble I call Nate's World and don't interrupt!
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dingus
May 18, 2009, 6:13 PM
Post #28 of 38
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just_learning wrote: Is there an advantage to using a nut vs. a hex if they're the same size?
Yes. Properly set nuts are far less likely to pop out of a placement due to rope drag etc.
Nuts are easier to place... easier to wiggle into and out of cracks and to move them around to the best place within the crack.
Nutcraft in general is easier than hexcraft.
The fact that a hex will fit in some places that a nut will not is not relevant to your question.
DMT
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dingus
May 18, 2009, 6:17 PM
Post #29 of 38
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fresh wrote: recently I've started to use hexes for belay anchors, which lets me save the cams for the lead. right now I bring two hexes on multipitch, but I'm kind of experimenting. maybe they'll end up at the bottom of the gear box.
Think about the top force one of those lead cams is likely to endure...
now think about the top force a belay anchor piece might endure....
Makes sense? To save your crappiest least adaptable pieces for the most critical placements of any given pitch?
You decide. But standing there at the end of a pitch (or hanging there?) with two hexes in hand, looking for that once golden opportunity to place them sounds like an exercise in stress and sub-optimal anchor systems.
Better put a Purfectolette on that!
DMT
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bill413
May 18, 2009, 6:22 PM
Post #30 of 38
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dingus wrote: fresh wrote: recently I've started to use hexes for belay anchors, which lets me save the cams for the lead. right now I bring two hexes on multipitch, but I'm kind of experimenting. maybe they'll end up at the bottom of the gear box. Makes sense? To save your crappiest least adaptable pieces for the most critical placements of any given pitch? You decide. But standing there at the end of a pitch (or hanging there?) with two hexes in hand, looking for that once golden opportunity to place them sounds like an exercise in stress and sub-optimal anchor systems. Better put a Purfectolette on that!
A purfectolette? Who makes that? I want one.
(This post was edited by bill413 on May 18, 2009, 6:58 PM)
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rockandlice
May 18, 2009, 7:32 PM
Post #32 of 38
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alleyehave wrote: rockandlice wrote: alleyehave wrote: I found it weird that nobody mentioned that hexes work in parallel cracks, while nuts do not. Perhaps you have a filter that eliminates the first two replies to every thread? Let me live in this bubble I call Nate's World and don't interrupt!
Honestly, being stuck in Nate's World is probably far better than rotting ones brain with much of the content on here. I'd say your head is in the right place my friend. 
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j_ung
May 18, 2009, 7:45 PM
Post #33 of 38
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andersjr wrote: hexes can act as a passive camming device, nuts are just a chock. I would go with nuts in those sizes though. you don't want to sound like a heard of cows walking up to your climb.
Fixed that for ya.
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roy_hinkley_jr
May 18, 2009, 8:50 PM
Post #34 of 38
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just_learning wrote: So when checking out some protection i noticed there was quite a bit of overlap when it came to the sizes of nuts and hexes, but as far as I'd been told their used for relatively the same purpose. Is there an advantage to using a nut vs. a hex if they're the same size?
Trick question: Since hexes and nuts are the same thing, there is no difference. Historically, the first "manufactured" passive pro was derived from hexagonal nuts with the threads drilled out.
Now if the OP meant what is the difference between hexes/nuts and wedges/tapers/stoppers, then it's situational and a matter of preference.
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ford4x4
May 18, 2009, 9:40 PM
Post #35 of 38
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bill413 wrote: ford4x4 wrote: hm lets see the diffrence between hexes and nuts... nuts go clink clink when you climb and hexes go BONG and can be heard from a mile away So you're saying hexes are better in a rescue situation? And ninjas need to use nuts. 
(This post was edited by ford4x4 on May 18, 2009, 9:42 PM)
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andersjr
May 19, 2009, 12:51 PM
Post #36 of 38
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j_ung wrote: andersjr wrote: hexes can act as a passive camming device, nuts are just a chock. I would go with nuts in those sizes though. you don't want to sound like a heard of cows walking up to your climb. Fixed that for ya.
NO. They can act as an active camming device because they push out on the wall when fallen on. They aren't an active camming device, I know that. This is a beginners forum, I felt this would be easier for a begginer to understand.
(This post was edited by andersjr on May 19, 2009, 1:13 PM)
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dingus
May 19, 2009, 1:10 PM
Post #37 of 38
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Their owners can act as passive aggressive, um... cams. Just dis their favorite nut and brace yourself for a few years of it haha.
'but you're tough... you can take it....'
Haha!
DMT
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fresh
May 19, 2009, 1:24 PM
Post #38 of 38
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Registered: Aug 7, 2007
Posts: 1199
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dingus wrote: fresh wrote: recently I've started to use hexes for belay anchors, which lets me save the cams for the lead. right now I bring two hexes on multipitch, but I'm kind of experimenting. maybe they'll end up at the bottom of the gear box. Think about the top force one of those lead cams is likely to endure... now think about the top force a belay anchor piece might endure.... Makes sense? To save your crappiest least adaptable pieces for the most critical placements of any given pitch? You decide. But standing there at the end of a pitch (or hanging there?) with two hexes in hand, looking for that once golden opportunity to place them sounds like an exercise in stress and sub-optimal anchor systems. Better put a Purfectolette on that! DMT
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