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cmscheip
May 22, 2009, 1:30 AM
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Registered: Dec 25, 2007
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What routes are top rope friendly on the South Face? I can't trad lead but am really wanting to get out tomorrow. I need something we can hike up with, set the anchor and climb! Thanks.
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jamatt
May 22, 2009, 2:20 AM
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Registered: Oct 4, 2005
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there are no top access bolted anchors on looking glass. the stage ledge on the south face can be set up for top roping. you'll need to free solo about a 30 foot 5.2 to access the ledge and then you'll need multiple medium sized cams plus something to extend the anchor to set the climbs. it's by no means a difficult set up, but if you're not used to gear anchors and extending an anchor, as well as mitigating some tricky equalization, it's prolly not the best place for you.
if you do choose to go, i'd recommend slinging the nose on the right of the big boulder at the top of the 5.2 to rappel down after cleaning your anchors rather than downclimbing. it's a little tricky because you have to create opposition by keeping your weight rock-left, but i think it's safer than the downclimb.
for top access top roping, i'd recommend holloway mtn , the chimneys at linville, (gear/natural anchors on both) or pilot mountain (multiple bolted) outside winston salem. holloway is really nice, with a .6, a .7, a .8 and a .10 all within about 20 feet of each other.
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cmscheip
May 22, 2009, 2:44 AM
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Registered: Dec 25, 2007
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Holloway sounds cool. Is it easy to find? It will be a bit longer of a drive but it might be worth it because none of us have any trad gear, just slings and biners. Thanks for the info.
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jamatt
May 22, 2009, 2:59 AM
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Registered: Oct 4, 2005
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the trees on holoway are about 20 feet from the edge of the cliff, so if you've just got slings, it'll be a pretty challenging set up. google map holloway mtn. road, go to "terrain," and look for buck knob. it's pretty easy to find, and only about a 200 foot hike.
as i'm sure you know, for better or for worse, NC is seriously short on top access bolted top rope climbing areas. pilot mountain is the exception, but as such, it's going to be PACKED, especially on a holiday weekend.
you could always just bust out the eye patch and go pirate some ropes. generally, climbers are pretty friendly folk, and if you ask nicely, most would let you do a lap or two on their ropes.
(This post was edited by jamatt on May 22, 2009, 3:04 AM)
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clemsonscooby
May 22, 2009, 12:50 PM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2006
Posts: 190
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Crowder's has a lot of TR access as well. It is getting hot there, but you can run from the sun. Head to the Fortress or Middle Finger in the morning, and in the afternoon you can go back over to Practice Wall or Davids Castle.
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