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angry
Jun 12, 2009, 12:28 AM
Post #26 of 38
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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marc801 wrote: steple wrote: Also for trad climbing I would try to stay below 10mm, to reduce rope drag. You're joking, right?
You're a n00b right?
As I stated before, my rope that gets used primarily for trad is a 9.2.
Sure I try to prevent rope drag and use runners but when you're 220ft into a pitch, no amount of runners (or DMM rollers) is going to make a heavy rope light.
For the shorter stuff, I do use the thick rope but who are we kidding here, single pitch trad = sport.
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mikebee
Jun 12, 2009, 12:28 AM
Post #27 of 38
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In reply to: Skidemon, compare the specs of the Mammut 10.2 Supersafe rope with any other. For trad, it's hard to beat.
From the Mammut website:
impact force in kN 8,8
I go with the school of thought that the lower the impact force of the rope, the more chance you have of a marginal placement holding your fall. To this end, Beal have the lowest impact forces pretty much across the whole market.
Check out the Beal Booster III 9.7mm. It's very nice rope, and it handles very well too.
From the Beal website:
• Impact force Laboratory 7.00-7.20 kN
• Impact force BEAL Guaranty 7.30 kN
That means for the first UIAA fall on each of these ropes, there's a difference between the Supersafe and the Booster of 1.5kN, which is the equivalent of about 150kg of weight at the peak load period of a 1.77 fall factor fall. That a pretty distinct difference, and if you're climbing on gear, that extra force might be the difference between your gear popping, or not.
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coastal_climber
Jun 12, 2009, 12:58 AM
Post #28 of 38
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Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
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9.8mm Sterling Velocity
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nhgill
Jun 12, 2009, 11:15 AM
Post #29 of 38
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Registered: Mar 22, 2009
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Well for what it is worth (and I have a sinking feeling that others here are going to tell me exactly why the shop was trying to get rid of it so cheaply) I just picked up a new Petzl Nomad from EMS. I figured its a 9.8mm dry coated rope and it was $70 off. Now I am not sure whether or not all EMS's have this deal or if it was the one in my area specifically but I figured it was worth it for the money. The Nomad is replacing a Mammut 10mm something (can't remember exactly what they called it) which I have to say I liked a lot but have beat to hell over the last couple of years.
just my .02
-HTG
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Skidemon27
Jun 12, 2009, 12:33 PM
Post #30 of 38
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Registered: Jun 15, 2007
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vegastradguy wrote: Skidemon27 wrote: well i am fairly new to trad. i want it to work well with a gri-gri casue my belay partners cant seem to belay unless they use a gri-gri... (well they can but then i gotta hear about them bitching that their fingers hurt) if they're bitching about their fingers hurting belaying with an ATC...they're doing it wrong. its also highly likely that they are belaying incorrectly with a grigri as well- as the amount of strength and rope contact really doesnt vary all that much from device to device, its mostly technique.
well my main bleay partner is my girlfriend.....she does it very well....only thing is is she is a massage thearpist...so her hands are covered in massage oils all day which make her hands super soft....she she cant build up her hands for belayin.....
let the jokes begin
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livinonasandbar
Jun 12, 2009, 12:38 PM
Post #31 of 38
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Registered: May 3, 2003
Posts: 356
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2 additional comments...
Skid, mentioning that you'll want your belayer to use a gri-gri (re)opens the issue of static vs dynamic belay devices. You should research the pros and cons of leading trad routes above a gri-gri.
Mikeb, when you consider a rope's impact force you also need to consider elongation. Generally a softer catch means more rope stretch. On vertical or less-than-vertical routes, more stretch could mean hitting a ledge or a block, etc. It's all about compromise...
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Skidemon27
Jun 12, 2009, 12:38 PM
Post #32 of 38
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Registered: Jun 15, 2007
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BIATHLON PRO-10.1 MM, sterling
VELOCITY+BI-COLOR-9.8MM, sterling
Infinity 9,5 mm -, mammut
which one should i get
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marc801
Jun 12, 2009, 3:07 PM
Post #33 of 38
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Skidemon27 wrote: well my main bleay partner is my girlfriend.....she does it very well....she cant build up her hands for belayin....
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marc801
Jun 12, 2009, 3:09 PM
Post #34 of 38
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angry wrote: Sure I try to prevent rope drag and use runners but when you're 220ft into a pitch, no amount of runners (or DMM rollers) is going to make a heavy rope light.
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petsfed
Jun 12, 2009, 3:26 PM
Post #35 of 38
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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marc801 wrote: angry wrote: Sure I try to prevent rope drag and use runners but when you're 220ft into a pitch, no amount of runners (or DMM rollers) is going to make a heavy rope light. Agreed. But rope drag and the weight of the rope are two different things, and diameter really only affects the latter.
How do you figure? Rope drag is correlated directly with the surface area of the rope contacting rock, carabiners, trees, etc. A skinnier rope will obviously have much less surface area to contact whatever and thus generate rope drag.
There are a lot of things that affect rope drag, but ALL else being equal (eg same amount of friction due to the weave of the sheath, same weight, same deflection from straight, etc), a skinnier rope will give you less drag.
The difference is noticeable between an 11mm and a 9.5, even on a 30 foot pitch.
When I travel, my 9.5 gets a ton of use, but at my local rope-eater crag, 9.9 is about as skinny as I dare go.
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vegastradguy
Jun 12, 2009, 4:16 PM
Post #36 of 38
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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Skidemon27 wrote: vegastradguy wrote: Skidemon27 wrote: well i am fairly new to trad. i want it to work well with a gri-gri casue my belay partners cant seem to belay unless they use a gri-gri... (well they can but then i gotta hear about them bitching that their fingers hurt) if they're bitching about their fingers hurting belaying with an ATC...they're doing it wrong. its also highly likely that they are belaying incorrectly with a grigri as well- as the amount of strength and rope contact really doesnt vary all that much from device to device, its mostly technique. well my main bleay partner is my girlfriend.....she does it very well....only thing is is she is a massage thearpist...so her hands are covered in massage oils all day which make her hands super soft....she she cant build up her hands for belayin..... let the jokes begin
they're called gloves. invest in a pair.
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Skidemon27
Jun 12, 2009, 5:21 PM
Post #37 of 38
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Registered: Jun 15, 2007
Posts: 232
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vegastradguy wrote: Skidemon27 wrote: vegastradguy wrote: Skidemon27 wrote: well i am fairly new to trad. i want it to work well with a gri-gri casue my belay partners cant seem to belay unless they use a gri-gri... (well they can but then i gotta hear about them bitching that their fingers hurt) if they're bitching about their fingers hurting belaying with an ATC...they're doing it wrong. its also highly likely that they are belaying incorrectly with a grigri as well- as the amount of strength and rope contact really doesnt vary all that much from device to device, its mostly technique. well my main bleay partner is my girlfriend.....she does it very well....only thing is is she is a massage thearpist...so her hands are covered in massage oils all day which make her hands super soft....she she cant build up her hands for belayin..... let the jokes begin they're called gloves. invest in a pair.
really? i have never heard of those.... i mean them seem kinda weird....i would have never of thought of that.....seriously u are the fu*king genious of RC.com
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knudenoggin
Jun 16, 2009, 5:27 AM
Post #38 of 38
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Registered: May 6, 2004
Posts: 596
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mikebee wrote: From the Mammut website: impact force in kN 8,8 I go with the school of thought that the lower the impact force of the rope, the more chance you have of a marginal placement holding your fall. To this end, Beal have the lowest impact forces pretty much across the whole market.
this test data implication is not really manifest in practice -- citing
all of the factors such as belay & lesser FF that come into play.
One might ask, What is the impact force on the Nth usual fall?
*kN*
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