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Anything wrong with this newbs anchor?
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glytch


Jun 22, 2009, 10:40 PM
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Re: [pfwein] Anything wrong with this newbs anchor? [In reply to]
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pfwein wrote:
hafilax wrote:
Again, the question is whether or not the force on the anchor will be significantly greater? As in, will it make a difference between the anchor holding or failing?

Even with long slings I don't think limiter knots will make a lick of difference as long as there is a reasonable amount of dynamic rope in the system especially given how much friction there is in a sliding-x when it has to rapidly change position.

The problem with limiter knots is that they detract from efficiency and adaptability. They are either a PITA to tie and untie or they end up on a dedicated single purpose sling. YMMV but really it's not worth arguing about.

BTW pfwein, what percentage of your posts have you edited? In this thread you're batting 80%.
hafilax: that is YOUR question, not Dingus's. He wrote: "There is virtually no proof whatsoever that limiter knots provide any sort of benefit at all." I'm not getting the word "significantly" from that.
By the way, I agree with the point made above that an advantage of limiter knots is that it will reduce the change in the position of the anchor if a piece pulls, and that may be more of a concern that the change in overall force felt on the anchor when a piece pops. For example, if you're doing what is common which is standing near the edge of a ledge at a belay and think it's just fine to drop down a foot or whatever when a piece pops, feel free to think that and maybe you're right. I find it to be at least a somewhat troubling event--but hay, whatever floats your boat.
On your point that "Even with long slings I don't think limiter knots will make a lick of difference as long as there is a reasonable amount of dynamic rope in the system especially given how much friction there is in a sliding-x when it has to rapidly change position": I'm interested in what you thing a "reasonable amount of dynamic rope is. The foot or two that connects the belayer to the anchor (in, let's say, a hanging belay scenario)? When that foot or two is already being stretched by holding the weight of the belayer? If the sling is a double or triple length"?
I've edited the posts mostly to correct some typos (I know some remain) and also to avoid bumping the thread when I just have another point to make. My goal is to improve the quality of the reading experience and not to continually bump the thread, especially if no one else has posted.
Why do you ask, is this a problem?
Edit--see halifax--here's an example. I saw shoo's post made above, and I don't see a need to make a new post, rather than just edit this one. Shoo--I don't know how "respected" Dingus is a climber, just like neither of us knows anything about each other. Being an rc posting legend is nice, but sorry, that don't mean jack to me when discussing anchors. I just know what he posted on this thread, and that's all I'm responding to.
Finally I got sick of this nonsense and just posted to Luebben's anchor book to settle this once and for all, which has now been done. (And I'm not saying you should always or even usually (or even ever, if you're using relatively short slings) tie limiter knots, which adds to the level or ridiculousness here.)

I'm not reading that ^

geez us man, paragraphs.

I'll say this briefly, seeing as it's about as close to "correct" as you can get in this kind of conversation, and let you figure out why:

Extension of a given length has a negligible effect on the overall strength of any real world anchor as long as the people/other loads connected to that anchor are connected using a length of dynamic cord that is "long" relative to the amount of extension. This caveat is met in any anchoring situation, basically, which consists of shoulder length slings and a rope tie-in. Yes, you are capable, I'm sure, of coming up with an asinine counterexample. Don't bother.

As to using limiter knots to make the sling more redundant: I am much more sympathetic to this line of thinking, especially on a hanging belay with two people and 6mm slings... but I'd almost always rather just use two slings, both sliding x'ed, and be done with it. Faster, more redundant, less knot tying and untying, etc.


fxgranite


Jun 22, 2009, 10:41 PM
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Re: [pfwein] Anything wrong with this newbs anchor? [In reply to]
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pfwein wrote:
hafilax, I thought we were getting somewhere, but now I'm concerned about a relapse.

Dingus wrote the following: "There is virtually no proof whatsoever that limiter knots provide any sort of benefit at all."
Putting aside anchor forces, I believe you noted earlier in this thread the advantage of reducing the change in anchor position. Do you now deny that that is proof, whatsover, of "any sort of benefit at all"?

Dingus's absurdity on this thread is not that he doesn't use limiter knots; it is the failure to acknowledge that they have obvious benefits in some cases. If the benefits don't exceed the costs for him and he avoids the cases where knots are really necessary (long slings), I have no problem with that.

It's also telling that neither you nor Dingus want to have anything to do with the discussion of whether you would use a sliding-x on a long sling (let's say a 20' sling) without limiter knots to, say, set up a top rope. Looking at arguments made in the extreme is a valid way to test the quality of the argument in other circumstances (and use of a long sling to set up a TR is really not so extreme--in fact, it happens hundreds of time across the country every weekend). I respectfully submit that the 20' sling does in fact prove that Dingus's potion in this thread has been absurd, and that's what "got my panties."

If for some crazy reason you still want to debate this, I will extend the invitation I made to Dingus to try to develop a test to submit to Aric or another qualified tester, with a little money riding on the result. For some reason Dingus seems to have been grossly offended by that even though he earlier in this thread issued a challenge. I think it may be interesting. If I "lost," that's great, I wouldn't have to waste time with limiter knots (except for the problem of anchor translation, which may in fact be the more serious issue).

Here's how this thread has gone:

Dingus: Hey I'm not sure limiter knots actually provide any real benefit. Has anyone done any research on this?
fxgranite: I too am interested in this.
pfwein: I fucking hate everything you stand for Dingus. Why would you kick my dog?
Dingus: WTF??
pfwein: Stop attacking my beliefs. You are a despicable human.
hafilax: wow, pfwein. Chill the fuck down. Dingus didn't kick your dog.
pfwein: NOM NOM NOM NOM I EAT BABIES!


hafilax


Jun 22, 2009, 10:42 PM
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Re: [fxgranite] Anything wrong with this newbs anchor? [In reply to]
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^^^^LMAO^^^^


fxgranite


Jun 22, 2009, 10:43 PM
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Re: [fxgranite] Anything wrong with this newbs anchor? [In reply to]
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On a side note, who does a sliding X on 20 foot slings?

It seems like at that point a master point would be fine.


milesenoell


Jun 22, 2009, 10:50 PM
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Re: [pfwein] Anything wrong with this newbs anchor? [In reply to]
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Tests have shown that the "x" in a sliding-x doesn't slide all that well, so the shock-loading when a piece of pro blows out is way less significant than one might have guessed. Also. shock-loading in general is less significant than one might guess if there is some dynamic rope invloved (as one assumes the climber is tied in with). Thus, the vast majority of the time limiter knots are unnecessary, and can be counterproductive since knots weaken the webbing.

I almost always read all the posts in a thread before posting, but not this one, so sorry if it's already been pointed out.


pfwein


Jun 22, 2009, 11:02 PM
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Re: [glytch] Anything wrong with this newbs anchor? [In reply to]
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glytch wrote:
pfwein wrote:
hafilax wrote:
Again, the question is whether or not the force on the anchor will be significantly greater? As in, will it make a difference between the anchor holding or failing?

Even with long slings I don't think limiter knots will make a lick of difference as long as there is a reasonable amount of dynamic rope in the system especially given how much friction there is in a sliding-x when it has to rapidly change position.

The problem with limiter knots is that they detract from efficiency and adaptability. They are either a PITA to tie and untie or they end up on a dedicated single purpose sling. YMMV but really it's not worth arguing about.

BTW pfwein, what percentage of your posts have you edited? In this thread you're batting 80%.
hafilax: that is YOUR question, not Dingus's. He wrote: "There is virtually no proof whatsoever that limiter knots provide any sort of benefit at all." I'm not getting the word "significantly" from that.
By the way, I agree with the point made above that an advantage of limiter knots is that it will reduce the change in the position of the anchor if a piece pulls, and that may be more of a concern that the change in overall force felt on the anchor when a piece pops. For example, if you're doing what is common which is standing near the edge of a ledge at a belay and think it's just fine to drop down a foot or whatever when a piece pops, feel free to think that and maybe you're right. I find it to be at least a somewhat troubling event--but hay, whatever floats your boat.
On your point that "Even with long slings I don't think limiter knots will make a lick of difference as long as there is a reasonable amount of dynamic rope in the system especially given how much friction there is in a sliding-x when it has to rapidly change position": I'm interested in what you thing a "reasonable amount of dynamic rope is. The foot or two that connects the belayer to the anchor (in, let's say, a hanging belay scenario)? When that foot or two is already being stretched by holding the weight of the belayer? If the sling is a double or triple length"?
I've edited the posts mostly to correct some typos (I know some remain) and also to avoid bumping the thread when I just have another point to make. My goal is to improve the quality of the reading experience and not to continually bump the thread, especially if no one else has posted.
Why do you ask, is this a problem?
Edit--see halifax--here's an example. I saw shoo's post made above, and I don't see a need to make a new post, rather than just edit this one. Shoo--I don't know how "respected" Dingus is a climber, just like neither of us knows anything about each other. Being an rc posting legend is nice, but sorry, that don't mean jack to me when discussing anchors. I just know what he posted on this thread, and that's all I'm responding to.
Finally I got sick of this nonsense and just posted to Luebben's anchor book to settle this once and for all, which has now been done. (And I'm not saying you should always or even usually (or even ever, if you're using relatively short slings) tie limiter knots, which adds to the level or ridiculousness here.)

I'm not reading that ^

geez us man, paragraphs.

I'll say this briefly, seeing as it's about as close to "correct" as you can get in this kind of conversation, and let you figure out why:

Extension of a given length has a negligible effect on the overall strength of any real world anchor as long as the people/other loads connected to that anchor are connected using a length of dynamic cord that is "long" relative to the amount of extension. This caveat is met in any anchoring situation, basically, which consists of shoulder length slings and a rope tie-in. Yes, you are capable, I'm sure, of coming up with an asinine counterexample. Don't bother.

As to using limiter knots to make the sling more redundant: I am much more sympathetic to this line of thinking, especially on a hanging belay with two people and 6mm slings... but I'd almost always rather just use two slings, both sliding x'ed, and be done with it. Faster, more redundant, less knot tying and untying, etc.
Let's throw an example out there and you can tell me if it is asinine. I really don't know (and I'm betting no one here really does either). Double-shoulder length sling used in sliding-x (say to connect to 2 old bolt anchor as one still sees from time on S Platte slab route), belayer clips in with figure 8 tied about one 1' away from tie-in knot. (If that is your asinine example, then at least one of us has a problem in thinking about this.)

Also, you completely fail to address the inherent problems caused by the anchor extending, even if that results in minimal loss of strength. Would you like to address my 20' long sling example used to set up a top rope? So far I haven't had any takers.

My internet posting has little to do with "real life," but if I saw some "climbers" using a 20' sling to set up a TR with no limiter knots in real life, that might be a rare time when I would speak up to address some safety issues.


desertwanderer81


Jun 22, 2009, 11:07 PM
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Re: [dingus] Anything wrong with this newbs anchor? [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
fxgranite wrote:
dingus wrote:
pfwein wrote:
Limiter knots are not "pointless" although I agree they may be unnecessary in some situations (and I frequently don't use them). The thing is, it's hard to know how unnecessary they are in advance of one piece popping, and then it may be too late.

There is virtually no proof whatsoever that limiter knots provide any sort of benefit at all.

[snip]

I challenge any one of you to PROVE limiter knots actually provide a real benefit and aren't just waste of time.

DMT

I have no way of proving any of this but strictly on a theoretical level wouldn't additional extension inherently generate more force in the event of a piece blowing? (greater speed leading to a higher deceleration and all that jazz)

This additional force may be negligible though, thus making you correct. I'm just curious as I generally avoid limiter knots due to laziness.

I don't know if I'm correct or not.

But then again, neither do the limiter knot folks.

DMT

I've never used them and I'm not dead therefore they're useless.


bill413


Jun 22, 2009, 11:09 PM
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Re: [pfwein] Anything wrong with this newbs anchor? [In reply to]
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pfwein wrote:
Edit edit: I'm reading a fascinating book called Fooled by Randomness by Nassim Taleb (mostly but not exclusively about financial markets).
The author was called upon by some critics to justify his points with empirical evidence. He replied that "logic does not require empirical verification . . . It is a mistake to use . . . statistics without logic, but the reverse does not hold: It is not a mistake to use logic without statistics."
So you all can chew on that if you fault my lack of "proof" that limiter knots are not "pointless."

Perhaps, but it is frequently a mistake to use logic without facts.


fxgranite


Jun 22, 2009, 11:10 PM
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pfwein wrote:
Also, you completely fail to address the inherent problems caused by the anchor extending, even if that results in minimal loss of strength. Would you like to address my 20' long sling example used to set up a top rope? So far I haven't had any takers.

My internet posting has little to do with "real life," but if I saw some "climbers" using a 20' sling to set up a TR with no limiter knots in real life, that might be a rare time when I would speak up to address some safety issues.

I mentioned this above in the form of another question. It's a sidestep I know.

Anyway to reiterate, does one actually set up a sliding X on 20 ft slings for a toprope? I'm trying to think up a scenario where I would rather the 20 foot sling sliding along the rock to equalize poor anchors instead of just a powerpoint.


dingus


Jun 22, 2009, 11:16 PM
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Do let me know if you come up with one shred of PROOF that limiter knots provide benefit.

Retro Thanks
DMT


pfwein


Jun 22, 2009, 11:21 PM
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fxgranite wrote:
pfwein wrote:
Also, you completely fail to address the inherent problems caused by the anchor extending, even if that results in minimal loss of strength. Would you like to address my 20' long sling example used to set up a top rope? So far I haven't had any takers.

My internet posting has little to do with "real life," but if I saw some "climbers" using a 20' sling to set up a TR with no limiter knots in real life, that might be a rare time when I would speak up to address some safety issues.

I mentioned this above in the form of another question. It's a sidestep I know.

Anyway to reiterate, does one actually set up a sliding X on 20 ft slings for a toprope? I'm trying to think up a scenario where I would rather the 20 foot sling sliding along the rock to equalize poor anchors instead of just a powerpoint.
I guess someone who doesn't think there is any theoretical problem with using a sliding-x without limiter knots would think it's a fine way to set up a TR, even with a long sling. It equalizes (at least to some extent), and that's a good thing.

How about this example: there are trees near the top of a cliff on which you would like to set a TR. The trees are good--you're pretty damn sure one tree would be fine, but pretty damn sure isn't quite good enough so you use two. How about you girth hitch a sling (or maybe 2--we're being safe here) around each tree, then take take your mega 20' sling (hell, how about a 40'--I'm not a big TR guy, but that's not that uncommon), and connect each girth hitched tree with a big old sliding x that drops nicely below the top of the crag. Use 2 lockers on the sliding-x, (remember, your text-book safe).

Great anchor, no? Yeah you could tie a powerpoint (codelette style), but why not just get the benefit of the sliding-x? That way, you don't have to untie the figure-8 when you're done, which can a little tough if a fat-ass top roper has been hanging all afternoon. (Remember--one reason not to use limiter knots is you don't want to untie them--that should also apply to a cordelette powerpoint knot).

Anyway, Dingus and halifax have piped down on this thread and there are some new posters now, and I don't think you've read all of the above posts. The problems started when Dingus defiantly challenged anyone to "prove" limiter knots could have any advantages, ever. He did it in what I perceived to be an insulting way, and I responded in kind to some extent (and then I admitted I regretted that). I ended the serious discussion (if there ever was one) by a cite to Luebben's anchor book, and that should have been that.

Now some of you seem to be saying that limiter knots aren't necessary when using shoulder length slings--I've got no problem with that. That sure as heck is NOT the position what started the trouble, and so it's really apples and oranges at this point.


onceahardman


Jun 22, 2009, 11:22 PM
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To pfwein:

brevity is the soul of wit.

you, sir, are a windbag.


pfwein


Jun 22, 2009, 11:28 PM
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Re: [bill413] Anything wrong with this newbs anchor? [In reply to]
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Can you provide an example? It would seem to me that the use of logic is a good thing; perhaps that is why I run into problems from time to time on this site.
Separately, I'm treating it as a "fact" that, all other things being equal, reducing the length of a fall in rock climbing is a good thing. As someone said to me in this thread, I'm not interested in asinine counterexamples (although non-asinine counterexamples are fair game).


pfwein


Jun 22, 2009, 11:29 PM
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Wow you really showed a lot of wit on that post.


Partner angry


Jun 22, 2009, 11:30 PM
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Are you bored today? Perhaps I missed and I&A report and you're grounded with an injury and pain meds?

You're getting more and more absurd and need to stop.

Thank you.


fxgranite


Jun 22, 2009, 11:30 PM
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pfwein wrote:
fxgranite wrote:
pfwein wrote:
Also, you completely fail to address the inherent problems caused by the anchor extending, even if that results in minimal loss of strength. Would you like to address my 20' long sling example used to set up a top rope? So far I haven't had any takers.

My internet posting has little to do with "real life," but if I saw some "climbers" using a 20' sling to set up a TR with no limiter knots in real life, that might be a rare time when I would speak up to address some safety issues.

I mentioned this above in the form of another question. It's a sidestep I know.

Anyway to reiterate, does one actually set up a sliding X on 20 ft slings for a toprope? I'm trying to think up a scenario where I would rather the 20 foot sling sliding along the rock to equalize poor anchors instead of just a powerpoint.
I guess someone who doesn't think there is any theoretical problem with using a sliding-x without limiter knots would think it's a fine way to set up a TR, even with a long sling. It equalizes (at least to some extent), and that's a good thing.

How about this example: there are trees near the top of a cliff on which you would like to set a TR. The trees are good--you're pretty damn sure one tree would be fine, but pretty damn sure isn't quite good enough so you use two. How about you girth hitch a sling (or maybe 2--we're being safe here) around each tree, then take take your mega 20' sling (hell, how about a 40'--I'm not a big TR guy, but that's not that uncommon), and connect each girth hitched tree with a big old sliding x that drops nicely below the top of the crag. Use 2 lockers on the sliding-x, (remember, your text-book safe).

Great anchor, no? Yeah you could tie a powerpoint (codelette style), but why not just get the benefit of the sliding-x? That way, you don't have to untie the figure-8 when you're done, which can a little tough if a fat-ass top roper has been hanging all afternoon. (Remember--one reason not to use limiter knots is you don't want to untie them--that should also apply to a cordelette powerpoint knot).

Anyway, Dingus and halifax have piped down on this thread and there are some new posters now, and I don't think you've read all of the above posts. The problems started when Dingus defiantly challenged anyone to "prove" limiter knots could have any advantages, ever. He did it in what I perceived to be an insulting way, and I responded in kind to some extent (and then I admitted I regretted that). I ended the serious discussion (if there ever was one) by a cite to Luebben's anchor book, and that should have been that.

Now some of you seem to be saying that limiter knots aren't necessary when using shoulder length slings--I've got no problem with that. That sure as heck is NOT the position what started the trouble, and so it's really apples and oranges at this point.

The problem here is that I don't really think the sliding x has any uses BEYOND the shoulder length slings (give or take a little). With 20' (and even more with 40') slings, the chance of decking becomes a real possibility which should never happen on TR.

Add this to the fact that with slings that long will be used on something not vertical and you have a huge long sling sliding back and forth over rock (or roots or whatever).

Long story short, yes I read it all. Every scintillating word, but I just have a hard time imagining a situation where the sliding x is useful in long slings.


donald949


Jun 22, 2009, 11:41 PM
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Re: [happiegrrrl] Anything wrong with this newbs anchor? [In reply to]
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happiegrrrl wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
Troll

True, but a funny one, with the closet hook bolts and the "climbing in the closet" comment.

I was going under the assumption that no, not a troll.
But hes got several posters going good. Real good.
So maybe a troll, much better than I thought.


hafilax


Jun 22, 2009, 11:42 PM
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If you pull out one of those trees you've got bigger things to worry about than extension.

How about this? For any situation where tieing limiting knots in a sliding-x would be of benefit I would build a different type of anchor.


pfwein


Jun 22, 2009, 11:47 PM
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Ever hear of an equalette? It is basically a sliding-x with limiter knots (when you tie a knot in each arm, you really don't need the "x" anymore, hence the change in terminology). If it's the length of an old school cordelette, it would be tied in about 20' of cord.
Never used one, but at least one well respected authority seems recommends it.
Apparently citing to published books on climbing anchors is not acceptable "proof," so you should probably just take advice from the windbags on this site. *sigh*


marc801


Jun 22, 2009, 11:53 PM
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fxgranite wrote:
On a side note, who does a sliding X on 20 foot slings?
Even more basic - who the hell carries 20' slings on a climb?


pfwein


Jun 23, 2009, 12:04 AM
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Re: [dingus] Anything wrong with this newbs anchor? [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
Do let me know if you come up with one shred of PROOF that limiter knots provide benefit.

Retro Thanks
DMT
Is a direct, on-point quite from a published book on climbing anchors PROOF, in your view? If so, I will get you said quote. If not, I won't waste my time.

If someone reads this and has the skill and equipment and wants to do a test and wants me to pay for materials, pipe up and I'd certainly consider doing so. I understand the material costs are probably fairly trivial, so this is a long shot.


pfwein


Jun 23, 2009, 12:09 AM
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Re: [marc801] Anything wrong with this newbs anchor? [In reply to]
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Do you even climb? It's not like I go around setting up TR's--I got over that about close to 20 years ago, but it's not like it's a rare thing to do. This is about anchors--doesn't matter if they are brought on a climb or used for TR (or rope solo or whatever).

Also--see above post re: equalette. That'd be a 20' for you.

Remember boys and girls--I brought up the subject of long slings as an example of a situation where, if you don't tie limiter knots, you're looking to end up meeting the ground more intimately than you would like.

It is a primarily a thought experiment. If you don't want to tie limiter knots in "short" slings, great, I don't either!


dingus


Jun 23, 2009, 12:31 AM
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Re: [pfwein] Anything wrong with this newbs anchor? [In reply to]
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pfwein wrote:
dingus wrote:
Do let me know if you come up with one shred of PROOF that limiter knots provide benefit.

Retro Thanks
DMT
Is a direct, on-point quite from a published book on climbing anchors PROOF, in your view? If so, I will get you said quote. If not, I won't waste my time.

No it is not, sorry. A direct quote from a published STUDY, THAT WOULD BE PROOF.

Do you know how the cordelette got it name and why it became so popular?

DMT


majid_sabet


Jun 23, 2009, 12:39 AM
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Re: [pfwein] Anything wrong with this newbs anchor? [In reply to]
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nothing is juicer than watching RCers getting in to some internet chicken fight over nothing and we have not had one of these entertainment in a long time


Lazlo


Jun 23, 2009, 12:44 AM
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Re: [desertwanderer81] Anything wrong with this newbs anchor? [In reply to]
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desertwanderer81 wrote:
MapleSyrup wrote:
It's simple, fast, redundant, and there's only about 5 inches of extension if one of the anchors fails.

[image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=3695;[/image]

Two slings independently through two anchors, each clipped to a separate biner through which the rope goes. It's a simplette.

Majid, is that you?
ShockedLaugh

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