Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
Post deleted by adatesman
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 3 4 Next page Last page  View All


gimmeslack


Jun 30, 2009, 7:45 PM
Post #26 of 77 (2868 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 24, 2006
Posts: 136

Re: [adatesman] Looking for anyone who's had an Alien fail in the wild [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Shoo said
you (Aric) commented
I (gimmeslack) objected

jes' trying to keep it all straight Wink


adatesman


Jun 30, 2009, 7:53 PM
Post #27 of 77 (2858 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479

Post deleted by adatesman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

 


scotchie


Jun 30, 2009, 8:02 PM
Post #28 of 77 (2843 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 31, 2004
Posts: 261

Re: [gimmeslack] Looking for anyone who's had an Alien fail in the wild [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

gimmeslack wrote:
adatesman wrote:
shoo wrote:
Honestly, I would ideally like this issue taken up in the major climbing media outlets rather than the law approach.

If Climbing Mag or Urban Climber reported on this, you would likely see the invisible hand do some mighty quick work.

I doubt that sort of thing would happen with R&I or Climbing, as it's kind of a biting the hand that feeds you sort of thing. If one of them were to do this kind of testing and made the results public the ad revenue would disappear immediately. Not such an issue with CCH I think (I don't recall ever seeing an ad for them), but the other manufacturers might get grumpy about it.

I hope you don't really believe that!

Are you suggesting that a reputable mag would avoid something as huge as potentially lethal QC failures to protect their ad revenue? Frankly, I think that's inappropriate speculation. Whether they think they either 1) have sufficient data or 2) sufficient expertise, to make such a call, is a different matter.

I like to read the product reviews in R&I, but I don't recall seeing any product reviewed get less then 4 stars out of 5.


(This post was edited by scotchie on Jun 30, 2009, 8:03 PM)


CSC0321


Jun 30, 2009, 8:48 PM
Post #29 of 77 (2798 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 17, 2008
Posts: 64

Re: [adatesman] Looking for anyone who's had an Alien fail in the wild [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Aric, thanks for your hard work and diligence. I for one appreciate your efforts to make climbing a safer sport(relatively) and for attempting to hold gear manufactures accountable for their products.

Complacency kills, and in this case, eventually it will.

Thanks and good luck


geo_nutt


Jun 30, 2009, 10:39 PM
Post #30 of 77 (2718 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 7, 2005
Posts: 13

Re: [adatesman] Looking for anyone who's had an Alien fail in the wild [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

adatesman wrote:
I'm sure this will get ugly fast, but long story short I am looking for contact info for anyone who has personally had an Alien fail in the field (by way of the unit itself failing, not the placement). The reason being that I have a meeting with an investigator from the Consumer Product Safety Commission later this week and as interested as she seems in my test results, I think she may be even more interested in speaking with anyone who's actually had a failure in the field.

So if you've had a failure and wouldn't mind me passing along your contact info (or just an account of the failure with some photos) please drop me a PM.

Thanks.

-aric.

Maybe a better approach would be speaking with the UIAA instead. If this is an issue it would be better to have a recognized body looking into it, then... *as far as I know* some crack pot on the internet who has no one else to talk to and are making up these results so they can feel important. I'm not saying that is what you are - I really don't care - but as far as I know you could be and I don't want that person representing my interests just as much as you don't want me (maybe I'm a crack pot who thinks looking at too much porn on the internet makes your balls turn blue and hence the internet should be banned) representing yours.

cheers


adatesman


Jun 30, 2009, 11:07 PM
Post #31 of 77 (2694 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479

Post deleted by adatesman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  

 


bill413


Jun 30, 2009, 11:44 PM
Post #32 of 77 (2672 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674

Re: [adatesman] Looking for anyone who's had an Alien fail in the wild [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

Aric, I, among others, appreciate the effort you've put into this for all our safety. And appreciate you're taking all athe assaults it's engendered.


adatesman


Jul 1, 2009, 12:13 AM
Post #33 of 77 (2646 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479

Post deleted by adatesman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  

 


geo_nutt


Jul 1, 2009, 1:13 AM
Post #34 of 77 (2611 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 7, 2005
Posts: 13

Re: [adatesman] Looking for anyone who's had an Alien fail in the wild [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (6 ratings)  
Can't Post

adatesman wrote:
geo_nutt wrote:
Maybe a better approach would be speaking with the UIAA instead. If this is an issue it would be better to have a recognized body looking into it, then... *as far as I know* some crack pot on the internet who has no one else to talk to and are making up these results so they can feel important. I'm not saying that is what you are - I really don't care - but as far as I know you could be and I don't want that person representing my interests just as much as you don't want me (maybe I'm a crack pot who thinks looking at too much porn on the internet makes your balls turn blue and hence the internet should be banned) representing yours.

cheers

You mean there's a chance I'm not an internet crackpot? Wink

But to respond to your point, I was asked to forward all of my test results to the US UIAA rep shortly after the recent UIAA Safety Meeting (which took place shortly after the NRR) and have been in contact with him on several occasions about this since then (note: one of their members contacted me, I didn't contact them as I didn't yet feel I had enough data to warrant taking it that far). They have pretty much everything at this point, but I will admit that I've not followed up with him to see if they're going to do anything with it (he was on an extended climbing holiday at the time, so I didn't want to ruin his vacation by pestering him). I'm told the French UIAA rep was going to buy a bunch of Aliens to take home for testing, so my guess is that they're working on it in some fashion. But given that CCH's UIAA cert expired on 12/31/08 I don't know there's much of anything the UIAA can do.



Disclaimer - I must admit I use aliens, have fallen on said aliens and very much like the way the slot into places other gear won't... don't take my aliens away from me!

My point is simple - you telling me not to buy aliens and I wonder who is this jerkoff... Whereas all of a sudden the UIAA label disappears from aliens, or any other gear for that matter, and I can choice - do I trust this gear or not? My choice... Whereas-as some gear suddenly disappears and other gear becomes much more expensive because of said jerkoff talking before thinking, removing my choice to buy or not to buy gear and use as I wish regardless of what might happen to me because of *my choice* knowing the consquences (again the UIAA thing)

As it currently stands I partly make my gear choices and risk assessments from the UIAA label... this does not mean I follow it - I often free climb above gear that is only rated for 'aid' ie 4kn or so - again my choice - I fear that actions such as yours will only take these choices away from me....

I don't surf this site too often (that porn thing) and I see you created quite the test post earlier on... I haven't or don't have time (again that porn thing) to read the whole thing but just out of curiosity have you tested other gear such as old BD's that have been bootied off the cliff as a comparison?

and just to prove I'm not a crack pot either - here is what happened to my lab monkey after an all night porn bender...

http://wtfurls.com/daily/images/484.jpg


adatesman


Jul 1, 2009, 1:37 AM
Post #35 of 77 (2605 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479

Post deleted by adatesman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  

 


geo_nutt


Jul 1, 2009, 2:41 AM
Post #36 of 77 (2588 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 7, 2005
Posts: 13

Re: [adatesman] Looking for anyone who's had an Alien fail in the wild [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

hey dude

not sure where I should post this but I will try and be consistent... admittedly I didn't bother reading all the posts on this subject...

my last drunken point is simply that I feel you are barking up the wrong tree... as a community it is important that we have trusted organizational body that certifies gear, in this case UIAA... and there are (at least) 2 issues here a) is the organizational body up to snuff and b) is a company not holding up to their (UIAA) certification -> however doesn't this go back to point 'a' - isn't up to the certifying body to deal with and if they don't they are not up to snuff...

so is the real issue here according to your post - can we trust UIAA certifications?

if your test are *true* - wouldn't a simple lowering of the certification by a few kn be acceptable? in which case we can make choices as we see fit?

well anyways good luck!


adatesman


Jul 1, 2009, 3:12 AM
Post #37 of 77 (2576 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479

Post deleted by adatesman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  

 


ptlong


Jul 1, 2009, 3:16 AM
Post #38 of 77 (2569 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 4, 2007
Posts: 418

Re: [adatesman] Looking for anyone who's had an Alien fail in the wild [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

adatesman wrote:
3. Personally I'd have no beef whatsoever with CCH if they simply dropped their ratings to whatever level their gear actually performs at using 3 Sigma analysis and the standard test.

Aric, did you ever follow up on the ratings that appear on Mountain Tools website? They used to have the CCH ratings but they changed it recently and now use the phrase 'UIAA tested' instead of 'strength'.


adatesman


Jul 1, 2009, 3:35 AM
Post #39 of 77 (2559 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479

Post deleted by adatesman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

 


moof


Jul 1, 2009, 4:22 AM
Post #40 of 77 (2539 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 400

Re: [adatesman] Looking for anyone who's had an Alien fail in the wild [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

I think it's excellent to have someone willing to put in the amazing amount of effort to sleuth down crummy gear on his own dime. Plain and simple without someone to champion an effort like this, nothing will get done.

The consumer product safety commission wouldn't have been my first guess as a place to go, perhapps the UIAA or CE with whom CCH has certs would have been more logical, but I'm just guessing.

Plain and simple, the evidence from a variety of anecdotal sources, heavily backed with Aric's impressively thorough and well documented testing shows that Aliens are a hazard. At the very least Aric can sleep well at night knowing he spoke up when it mattered. Whether the community or the feds listen is a different story.

Personally I'm pretty horrified by the whole alien debacle, and the final nail in the coffin for me was having one of my aliens reworked when I sent it for testing. Zero communication occurred to explain to me as to whether I had been playing russian roulette with that cam over the last few years. It also appeared as though CCH went out of their way to make the cam appear to be my old cam (even re-using the red plastic thumb loop covering). Schister.

Given the length of time, slew of nightmares, and lack of proper fessing up by CCH (and broad recall of virtually all aliens), bringing in the feds is sadly the right thing to do. Unlike the majority of rc.noob, Aric has been open, honest, and does not appear to have any personal grudge in this (professional grudge yes, but a well justified one in my opinion).

That's more than my $0.02. Keep it up Aric! Thanks for doing a great service to the community (even if some of them are retards)!


adatesman


Jul 1, 2009, 4:41 AM
Post #41 of 77 (2534 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479

Post deleted by adatesman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

 


moof


Jul 1, 2009, 4:46 PM
Post #42 of 77 (2472 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 400

Re: [adatesman] Looking for anyone who's had an Alien fail in the wild [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
There's the thing... CCH's UIAA certification expired 12/31/08, so most likely the UIAA has no leverage against them anymore. I suspect the same goes for CE since to my knowledge Aliens aren't sold in Europe (except perhaps for unofficial grey market ones) and therefore not subject to the CE norm.

Regardless I sent all my results to the US UIAA rep weeks ago and followed it up with a copy of my final report shortly after it was posted here on RC, so its not like they weren't given the opportunity to get involved. That said I've not followed up with them on it so they may well be working on the issue behind the scenes and simply not telling anyone about it. I guess I should probably drop them an email to let them know I've passed things on to the CPSC....

My bad. Lack of UIAA cert is pretty damn interesting. My wild guess is there have been some words exchanged between the UIAA and CCH already, and they chose to go their separate ways quietly. Mountain Tools needs to change their Alien page to removed the UIAA reference I guess.


roy_hinkley_jr


Jul 1, 2009, 4:56 PM
Post #43 of 77 (2466 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 8, 2005
Posts: 652

Re: [adatesman] Looking for anyone who's had an Alien fail in the wild [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (8 ratings)  
Can't Post

Face it Aric, you are incapable of being impartial. Your outright refusal to acknowledge flaws in your own testing and your reliance on name calling instead of engaging in polite conversation has ruined your credibility. It's no longer worth the time following your "investigation" since the results were pre-determined before you pulled the first cam. Perhaps there will be a proper investigation by somebody who knows what they are doing. But it clearly isn't you or the CSPC.


ptlong


Jul 1, 2009, 5:09 PM
Post #44 of 77 (2453 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 4, 2007
Posts: 418

Re: [moof] Looking for anyone who's had an Alien fail in the wild [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

moof wrote:
My bad. Lack of UIAA cert is pretty damn interesting. My wild guess is there have been some words exchanged between the UIAA and CCH already, and they chose to go their separate ways quietly. Mountain Tools needs to change their Alien page to removed the UIAA reference I guess.

They don't claim UIAA certification on their website. What they show are strength values labeled 'UIAA tested'. These numbers are lower than the strength ratings of CCH. They are also weird. For example the gold has the same tested strength as the black.

Here are the Alien specs from Mountain Tools. The first page is from 2007 the second is from today.




Attachments: 7657190.jpg (33.9 KB)
  7659684.jpg (44.6 KB)


hafilax


Jul 1, 2009, 5:17 PM
Post #45 of 77 (2445 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [roy_hinkley_jr] Looking for anyone who's had an Alien fail in the wild [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

roy_hinkley_jr wrote:
Face it Aric, you are incapable of being impartial. Your outright refusal to acknowledge flaws in your own testing and your reliance on name calling instead of engaging in polite conversation has ruined your credibility. It's no longer worth the time following your "investigation" since the results were pre-determined before you pulled the first cam. Perhaps there will be a proper investigation by somebody who knows what they are doing. But it clearly isn't you or the CSPC.
So Aric caused the Aliens to pull out of the jig but not the other cams he's tested? He's acknowledged flaws in the UIAA testing which he is following and stated that it is the best we have ATP.

What kind of test would you like to see done? Tell us what somebody else would do that would yield different results.


adatesman


Jul 1, 2009, 5:23 PM
Post #46 of 77 (2737 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479

Post deleted by adatesman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

 


brownie710


Jul 1, 2009, 6:45 PM
Post #47 of 77 (2697 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 25, 2007
Posts: 531

Re: [roy_hinkley_jr] Looking for anyone who's had an Alien fail in the wild [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

roy_hinkley_jr wrote:
Face it Aric, you are incapable of being impartial. Your outright refusal to acknowledge flaws in your own testing and your reliance on name calling instead of engaging in polite conversation has ruined your credibility. It's no longer worth the time following your "investigation" since the results were pre-determined before you pulled the first cam. Perhaps there will be a proper investigation by somebody who knows what they are doing. But it clearly isn't you or the CSPC.

If you've followed the series of posts you can clearly see that Aric has noted the limitations and his efforts to cordially provide the info he found to CCH to empower them to take action, which they failed to. I'm not ragging on you or anyone else that loves their aliens (hell my friend took a 50 footer after one disintegrated on him and he still loves them) but the time and effort Aric is putting in shouldn't result in someone giving him shit about being unable to be impartial. I think i speak for a number of folks who appreciate the effort.


(This post was edited by brownie710 on Jul 2, 2009, 12:49 PM)


adatesman


Jul 1, 2009, 7:28 PM
Post #48 of 77 (2681 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479

Post deleted by adatesman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  

 


boymeetsrock


Jul 1, 2009, 8:22 PM
Post #49 of 77 (2636 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 1709

Re: [adatesman] Looking for anyone who's had an Alien fail in the wild [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

Wow. is this really the same person?

Roy, What are your climbing/ gear making credentials?

Aric, I love your work here, but... It seems Roy has really wound you up. I can appreciate why, but I've got to admit that your frustration is not suiting you well. While Roy has repeatedly refuted you and dismissed your findings on these threads, he certainly doesn't seem to hold much sway amongst the readers. Me thinks you would be better served by ignoring him at this point. Or, perhaps you should simply answer his points as you have and leave it at that.

Quite frankly, this whole quibble has been rather elementary school IMO. it is not suited to someone of your integrity.

Just my $0.02.

-W




Edit to add: Personal attacks are not allowed on the site. Mod or not. Take a deep breath dude...


(This post was edited by boymeetsrock on Jul 1, 2009, 8:25 PM)


IsayAutumn


Jul 1, 2009, 8:38 PM
Post #50 of 77 (2451 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 8, 2008
Posts: 355

Re: [boymeetsrock] Looking for anyone who's had an Alien fail in the wild [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

boymeetsrock wrote:
Wow. is this really the same person?

Roy, What are your climbing/ gear making credentials?

Aric, I love your work here, but... It seems Roy has really wound you up. I can appreciate why, but I've got to admit that your frustration is not suiting you well. While Roy has repeatedly refuted you and dismissed your findings on these threads, he certainly doesn't seem to hold much sway amongst the readers. Me thinks you would be better served by ignoring him at this point. Or, perhaps you should simply answer his points as you have and leave it at that.

Quite frankly, this whole quibble has been rather elementary school IMO. it is not suited to someone of your integrity.

Just my $0.02.

-W




Edit to add: Personal attacks are not allowed on the site. Mod or not. Take a deep breath dude...

Word.

Aric, IMO this whole thing is starting to look a little immature. You are squandering what might have been a good addition to the cannon of knowledge about cams. There are people who disagree with you. Live with it. Insulting them and/or making fun of them is hurting your cause.

I think I would chill for a while and get some perspective. You seem too riled up.

First page Previous page 1 2 3 4 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook