I would be interested in hearing from climbers that don't lead climb yet, but are thinking about making the transition. What would help you make the transition from top rope, into leading sport or trad climbing? Whats is getting your way or keeping you from taking the next step and getting started? Gear? Fear? Whats the catch??

Gear isn't the problem for me. I can borrow quickdraws from people. The problem is that I only TR like 5.8 and according to one of my climber friends I need to at least be climbing at 5.9/5.10 before I even consider leading. He said that I will be climbing three grades below my usual TR climb, which I figured anyway.

But I really, really want to lead. When I get back to school, I plan to do a TON of TR to build my skill/endurance. What I'd started doing before I left school for summer was simply asking for quite a bit of slack. I can't stand the feeling of being "carried" up the wall. And plus, that will hopefully get me used to the feeling of being on lead (in a sense, though I know it's no substitute, really).

Gear isn't the problem for me. I can borrow quickdraws from people. The problem is that I only TR like 5.8 and according to one of my climber friends I need to at least be climbing at 5.9/5.10 before I even consider leading. He said that I will be climbing three grades below my usual TR climb, which I figured anyway.

Excuses are what hold non-climbers back.

Climbers find reasons to lead. Not excuses to top rope.

Sorry, just injecting some tough love into the thread.

If you want to lead. LEAD. Stop making excuses.

DMT

So if you are GOING to lead, how will you prepare yourself between now and then? How are you going to assume responsibility for your own butt? Will you take the steps necessary (already have?) to be informed and prepared?

Those friends of yours aren't going to do it for you. Nobody here can take your decisions for you. This is ALL YOU.

Leading isn't rocket science but it is serious nevertheless. You could die. THAT is the responsibility I am referring to - understanding and then acting in a manner 100% responsible for your own butt and each and every decision you take.

No blaming the buddies for anything, before or after. Its all you.

DMT

My friends seem to be hesitant to allow it when we're outside simply because they don't want me to have to clean the route / clip in at the top to go off belay. (Sorry if that's incorrect.) Bail biner, yes? I'm still a little confused as to what one does at the top of a route when it's completed even though I've definitely googled it quite a bit / seen a friend do it before. Can someone explain?

I don't mean to hijack the thread.

i just started leading last weekend and it was a complete success. before that, every time i would toprope, i would try to do it perfectly and think "what would i have to do if i was leading this," and then if i got really scared i would think "there's no way i'm ready to lead if i can't even toprope this route easily." not necessarily true though. my very first lead, i toproped the route first. i didn't think it was necessarily easy on toprope, so i was a little scared to lead it. when i led it, i found i climbed it better and more easily. you focus more when you're on lead. and surprisingly, i worry less about falling when i'm on lead. i just try and stay focused.

then again, there was another route that i toproped first, didn't fall, and then fell on lead.

My friends seem to be hesitant to allow it when we're outside simply because they don't want me to have to clean the route / clip in at the top to go off belay. (Sorry if that's incorrect.) Bail biner, yes? I'm still a little confused as to what one does at the top of a route when it's completed even though I've definitely googled it quite a bit / seen a friend do it before. Can someone explain?

I don't mean to hijack the thread.

I'm getting a sense from your question above that you need to have someone walk you through the leading process a little bit more. Typically, in the scenario you describe above, you would either walk off, rappel, or lower off, and experience would tell you which one made sense for the particular situation. I'm guessing you'd be solid with the first option but unclear about options 2 and 3. If you search around on this site a bit, you'll see that a number of folks have gotten badly hurt or worse by lowering or rappelling incorrectly. As someone else said above, it's all pretty simple, but if you get it wrong, there is often no second chance. So your friends are right to be worried about taking you off belay and hoping you figure it out.

I'd consider reading all you can about this if you learn that way (plenty of books on learning to lead out there), but either way go out a time or two with an experienced climber or climbing guide who will show you how to do it safely.

are they making excuses, or are you???

Contrary to popular practice, the internet is a terrible place to learn how to climb. While books might be great, they're also terrible for learning on when you have no point of reference.

Find an experienced friend who is patient and have that person show you the "ropes". Have them show you how to learn all of the skills etc. THEN read some books, etc and refine your skills and knowledge.

Contrary to popular practice, the internet is a terrible place to learn how to climb. While books might be great, they're also terrible for learning on when you have no point of reference.

Find an experienced friend who is patient and have that person show you the "ropes". Have them show you how to learn all of the skills etc. THEN read some books, etc and refine your skills and knowledge.

I know I've still got quite a bit to learn. I need to get some books on sport climbing. As of now, I've only relied on Google and this forums search function.

Ah, I shoulda spoted the troll earlier.

Cheers
DMT

I'm not a troll. :( I've climbed before, and often. However, considering I can't climb at the moment, reading up on climbing is really my only option. I feel offended. I would NEVER rely on books alone to learn about sport climbing (or climbing in general). I'm home for the summer where there isn't a climbing gym or rock in sight. Please give me a break. :/ I've seen people climb a sport route and trad, but I'm not an expert, I'll give you that.