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mshore
Nov 30, 2002, 1:11 AM
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Registered: Jul 18, 2002
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Going to take a trip up to Squamish next summer and I am wondering if any of you all could recommend a few moderate aid lines. I would like to do a longer wall and I hear that the Cheif is 1700 feet?!? Anything in the 5.10/A3 range with great bivy spots? Second, where might I find beta and topos for said walls? Thanks guys! [ This Message was edited by: mshore on 2002-11-30 09:36 ]
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wallrat
Nov 30, 2002, 2:21 AM
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Registered: Nov 28, 2002
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There is a guidebook for the area, which has all the walls. I've checked them out with a hungry eye too. There is one line about what you're looking for, which goes out a wild perfectly horizontal roof, about 20 feet. I'd love to do it. So, If you're looking for a partner when you get up here, (Seattle) let me know! Gene. genepwest@yahoo.com
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mshore
Nov 30, 2002, 5:24 PM
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Registered: Jul 18, 2002
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I suppose that I should have maybe typed in a few words at yahoo before starting this post but it still could have its benefits. Anyone done Uncle Bens or The Sherrif's Badge? Fun routes? Thanks wallrat for the offer! We should hook up and climb for sure. Below I will post any links I find for others: Matthew Buckles' BC Page Squamish Area Climbing - Picture Gallery [ This Message was edited by: mshore on 2002-11-30 09:35 ]
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bigwalling
Dec 1, 2002, 10:32 PM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2001
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I haven't been to the top of the Chief yet but I know quite a bit on the climbs. Uncle Bens: Really cool location. Can be done clean if gear is fixed. I don't think it has any bivy ledges. Sheriffs Badge: From what I've heard it is a great route with good nailing. No bivy ledges on the actual route. Canabis: Slab type aid climbing. The parts I lead on it were really easy. Lots of it could go free. Wrist Twister: Nice and short. Looks kinda cool. I doubt it is A3 from what I've heard. Something about Misery: This route looks pretty good. It has 5 pitches and is a pain in the ass to get to. I had planned on doing it but not after seeing the trail up to it. Still it looks like a great route and it is total hidden up in the North-North Gully. Negro : I hear it isn't that bad. Looks like the second to last pitch might be a little hard(A3+old wave?). Has fixed lines hanging on it. I think a portaledge will really help you out. I'm waiting for Fish to get mine to me and then I think I'll though all I got at something on the Badge. So you might want to buy/barrow a ledge if you can.
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