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Selecting my first shoe, your help needed please!
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climber100


Jul 11, 2009, 4:16 AM
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Selecting my first shoe, your help needed please!
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http://www.evolvesports.com/royale.htm

http://www.madrockclimbing.com/flash-1.aspx

http://www.sportiva.com/products/prod/996

http://www.rei.com/product/716244

(I posted an early post which I deleted because I noticed I wasn't helping you folks out enough by not giving particular shoes, so thanks for your help, and here are some options). I just started climbing and am doing mostly indoors, but I'm going to be doing some outdoor climbing soon (I don't know what "crack" and all that means, so I don't know what climbing) along with indoor/outdoor bouldering. What shoe is best?
Thanks a lot, your input is appreciated and respected!


(This post was edited by climber100 on Jul 11, 2009, 4:17 AM)


brawa


Jul 11, 2009, 4:32 AM
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Re: [climber100] Selecting my first shoe, your help needed please! [In reply to]
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Just get whatever's cheapest and comfortable enough that you don't need to take them off after every climb. I don't mean this to be short, but seriously: you are in all likelihood going to wear through your first pair of shoes very quickly. Any rock shoe will be better than climbing in sneakers by a long shot, and it will give you a good idea of what you do and don't like in a shoe for when you're ready for your second or third pair.

Good luck!


socalclimber


Jul 11, 2009, 12:06 PM
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Re: [brawa] Selecting my first shoe, your help needed please! [In reply to]
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brawa wrote:
Just get whatever's cheapest and comfortable enough that you don't need to take them off after every climb. I don't mean this to be short, but seriously: you are in all likelihood going to wear through your first pair of shoes very quickly. Any rock shoe will be better than climbing in sneakers by a long shot, and it will give you a good idea of what you do and don't like in a shoe for when you're ready for your second or third pair.

Good luck!

This is sound advice. Don't worry about the various types. Cheap and comfy is best. 5.10 makes a decent shoe called the Coyote. They retail around $80 USD and will be fine for your current needs.


(This post was edited by socalclimber on Jul 11, 2009, 12:07 PM)


Myxomatosis


Jul 13, 2009, 1:43 AM
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Re: [socalclimber] Selecting my first shoe, your help needed please! [In reply to]
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Yeah I go though shoes every six months in the gym.

I usually buy a cheap pair for gym and nice one for outdoors.

Coyotes are awesome beginner shoes, cheap and long lasting.. yet great design/performance


subantz


Jul 13, 2009, 1:50 AM
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NIKE AIR FORCE ONES or A PAIR OF JORDANS.Wink


sungam


Jul 13, 2009, 1:52 AM
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subantz wrote:
NIKE AIR FORCE ONES or A PAIR OF JORDANS.Wink
SHOOZ ATE ATE ATE DOT CALM!


karmiclimber


Jul 13, 2009, 1:54 AM
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Re: [climber100] Selecting my first shoe, your help needed please! [In reply to]
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I say go for the sportivas, if you have the extra cash. Everyone tells beginners to buy cheap shoes for their first go round...personally shoes can give you some awesome confidence if they are comfortable and keep your feet more firmly planted on holds with sticky rubber. My two cents. It would be killer if you could try a pair on (which the ten or so minutes you may have them on at the store will not predict how they will feel after a couple hours at the gym or crag). Best of luck!!


socalclimber


Jul 13, 2009, 4:01 AM
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Sorry, but this is bad advice. This person is a new climber. This means they have lousy foot work. This equals destroyed shoes.

There's good reason to have newbies buy cheap shoes in the beginning, they're going to tear them up. Once they have beat that pair up, most likely they will have started to develop some technique. Then buy better shoes.

My best friend and main partner has climbed more routes in Joshua Tree & Yosemite, and has more first ascents than any human alive in both parks. He's a cheap bastard and routinely leads 5.11 in Coyotes.

Your argument does not hold water.

Sorry.


(This post was edited by socalclimber on Jul 13, 2009, 4:02 AM)


karmiclimber


Jul 13, 2009, 4:11 AM
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BS. My first pair of shoes were 5.10's (bought on sale). I tried climbing a couple of times in sneakers when I first started out and had major slippage. Look, I'm not saying put down a fortune for shoes. AT ALL. You can get nice, beginner shoes that will also aid in climbing. The person who posted the thread was asking for advice on which shoes among a selection would be good. I gave my PERSONAL experience. If not for me having the better shoe, that allowed me to experience personal growth, I might not have progressed easily or enjoyed rockclimbing. That has been my experience and personal advice. And for me, it has held water. This is why I hate rockclimbing.com. Ugh. Off to not post again for another 6 months. Later.


karmiclimber


Jul 13, 2009, 4:14 AM
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socalclimber wrote:
Sorry, but this is bad advice. This person is a new climber. This means they have lousy foot work. This equals destroyed shoes.

There's good reason to have newbies buy cheap shoes in the beginning, they're going to tear them up. Once they have beat that pair up, most likely they will have started to develop some technique. Then buy better shoes.

My best friend and main partner has climbed more routes in Joshua Tree & Yosemite, and has more first ascents than any human alive in both parks. He's a cheap bastard and routinely leads 5.11 in Coyotes.

Your argument does not hold water.

Sorry.

And the shoes out of the selection I reccomended are 10 dollars more than the 5.10 coyotes. Geeze dude.


Neel


Jul 13, 2009, 4:25 AM
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Re: [climber100] Selecting my first shoe, your help needed please! [In reply to]
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climber100 wrote:
http://www.evolvesports.com/royale.htm

http://www.madrockclimbing.com/flash-1.aspx

http://www.sportiva.com/products/prod/996

http://www.rei.com/product/716244

(I posted an early post which I deleted because I noticed I wasn't helping you folks out enough by not giving particular shoes, so thanks for your help, and here are some options). I just started climbing and am doing mostly indoors, but I'm going to be doing some outdoor climbing soon (I don't know what "crack" and all that means, so I don't know what climbing) along with indoor/outdoor bouldering. What shoe is best?
Thanks a lot, your input is appreciated and respected!

FWIW, my first shoes were the Sportiva Cliffs - they were great shoes, and very comfortable. A bunch of people I know who just started went with the fiveten spires. Both good shoes - as others said, the best beginner shoe is the one that is most comfortable. Try 'em all on, and figure out which one suits your feet best. Dont worry about aggressive asymmetric toes or anything like that - just get what fits and will get you up the rock.


climber100


Jul 13, 2009, 5:58 AM
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karmiclimber, thank you for your advice, I certainly appreciate it; socalclimber had good advice also, but yes, your advice is respected. Also I think you should keep posting because beginners like me like hearing your personal experience, so ya. thank you to all for your help thus far...


socalclimber


Jul 13, 2009, 6:29 AM
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Geez dudette, you should have said as much in your original post. You basicly dismissed the notion of beginners not slapping down lots of money on shoes. I called you on it.

Then you come along and back peddle about the Sportiva's only being $10 more.


socalclimber


Jul 13, 2009, 6:30 AM
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climber100 wrote:
karmiclimber, thank you for your advice, I certainly appreciate it; socalclimber had good advice also, but yes, your advice is respected. Also I think you should keep posting because beginners like me like hearing your personal experience, so ya. thank you to all for your help thus far...

Just go out and by something cheap and comfortable that you can climb all day in. You'll be far better off.


josiahdood


Jul 13, 2009, 12:00 PM
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I flailed for a year or two wearing so called beginner shoes (ie La Sportiva Cliff), without making a lot of headway in the footwork technique department. Then I bought a pair of 5.10 Moccasyms a size and a half down from my street shoe (initially uncomfortable) and my feet started sticking to everything. A month later I was cranking at least a grade harder than I was before.

Everyone has a different experience I guess.


karmiclimber


Jul 13, 2009, 4:37 PM
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No, there was no backpeddling. 90 dollars is not inexpensive. Neither is 80 for 5.10 coyotes. I was replying to the author who had posted a list, and in that list was a pair of sportivas for 90 bucks. Its inexpensive relatively speaking...but with some of the cheaper brands, I have personally had bad luck. So I was trying to say go with a good brand (5.10, sportiva) and the get the good, comfortable beginner shoe...which had worked for me personally.
I hate how on this site it seems like everyone is looking for a fight. Waiting for that "I'm right, you are wrong moment." You are acting like I taught the person to backclip or belay off their chalk bag loop. And I am seriously sick of being undermined.
Shoes are hard for beginners. You need to try them on and climb in them to really find out what they are going to be like. Personally, sportiva and five ten fit my feet very well, but I wear a different size in each. And as for trying on...the place I have seen the most amount of shoes in different brands in ONE place is not REI, the local gear shop or the gym...its Miguels at the Red. Which makes trying on shoes hard. You might want to ask around at the gym for reccomendations too. I dunno, best of luck.


socalclimber


Jul 13, 2009, 9:48 PM
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Re: [karmiclimber] Selecting my first shoe, your help needed please! [In reply to]
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You posted this little gem:

"Everyone tells beginners to buy cheap shoes for their first go round..."

This is a very dismissive statement.

Has it ever occured to you that there is a very good reason why this piece of advice is routinely dispensed?

I'll bet not.

As for the rest of your mindless banter....

Yawn...

I suggest you stop dispensing your poor advice coupled with your total lack of experience.


(This post was edited by socalclimber on Jul 13, 2009, 9:54 PM)


karmiclimber


Jul 13, 2009, 10:02 PM
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socalclimber wrote:
You posted this little gem:

"Everyone tells beginners to buy cheap shoes for their first go round..."

This is a very dismissive statement.

Has it ever occured to you that there is a very good reason why this piece of advice is routinely dispensed?

I'll bet not.

As for the rest of your mindless banter....

Yawn...

I suggest you stop dispensing your poor advice coupled with your total lack of experience.

Yes, well "neener, neener" and "your mom". Namaste.


socalclimber


Jul 13, 2009, 10:32 PM
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That response is pretty much what I expected.

Vacuous...


graemesmith


Jul 13, 2009, 10:36 PM
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I have the 5.10 Coyote 2īs and they have really flimsy souls. Upgrading to Scarpa Veloces helped me a lot for gym footwork. So just donīt get anything that is TOO flimsy. On the other hand they probably rock for slabs. Wink


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