So I notice there's a single loop on one end to connect to harness, and two loops on the other end with one biner to anchor. Can you put a biner on each loop to clip two anchors?

Is there a good reason not to save a biner and girth hitch the whole thing to the tie in points?

I'd highly recommend a direct girth hitch and not using a biner.

Maybe the people in Majid's picture are using a biner for a particular reason... Majid?

what do you mean direct girth hitch to harness ?

I think he means girth hitching the loop created by the figure 8 on a bight directly to your belay loop instead of using a biner to attach this loop to your belay loop.

I've seen this before but really never gave it any thought.
How much cord might one need to make the purcell?
I'm beginning to like my thoughts here.

So I notice there's a single loop on one end to connect to harness, and two loops on the other end with one biner to anchor. Can you put a biner on each loop to clip two anchors?

I want to say about 12' of 6mm cord will be just about right. If you want it longer, then maybe 13' or 14'.

How long of a tether will this make when fully extended?

The one on the right is made up of 12' of 6mm. It's a little under 2', and all the way extended it's a hair over 3'.

1) The OP's link seems to indicate that some sliding of the prusik occurs during a fall. Is it correct that in a fall, the prusik will slide, thereby reducing the peak force of the fall?

2) What happens if you use a 2-wrap purcell prusik to clip into anchors instead of a 3-wrap?

I understand the hitch would slide at different amounts of force, but how does this affect the peak force the climber encounters? More generally, there is an optimal slipping coefficient that would minimize peak force for a specified cord diameter (e.g. 6mm) and specified maximal slipping length (e.g. 2ft) in a factor 1 or 2 fall?

3) Is it a bad idea to use 5.5mm tech cord as a purcell prusik, and why if so? Would it be bad because sliding/slippage could lead to material failure, or because peak forces would be higher because of the material, etc.?

4) I tie an overhand in my purcell prusik about 1.5 inches away from my harness tie-in point and clip my rappel device into the shelf created by the overhand, so that I can extend my rappel device away from me a bit (which makes it easier to clip backup prusik on my belay loop and onto the rope). Is this a bad idea for any reason? Specifically, does the purcell prusik become weaker to a point where I should be concerned?

5) Are there any hitches one can tie on a single line (instead of a loop of cord) that would be suitable for tying into rap anchors? For example, a tautline hitch (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taut-line_hitch), tied on two separate cords, each of which is tied off to the harness (***NO*** idea how much force that hitch or the others would hold).

Having an adjustable tether is great, but if there was an clutter-minimal way to be clipped into two bolts, that would be even better. I realize that most people just girth hitch two slings (or worse, daisies) to their harness.. I would like something adjustable. And like someone else mentioned, clipping a carabiner to each of the two loops of the purcell prussik does not work well.

I have experimented with a single-line Purcell idea, but I don't have any testing data to prove it's viability, so take it as you will. Take the end of your cord, make a bight and use the end to tie a barrel knot on itself, making something like a noose. Use that loop to tie a prussic back on itself. Once in place, work the slack out until the barrel knot is snug against the prussic hitch.


If you figure that one out let me know!