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euroford
Dec 1, 2002, 10:46 PM
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but i'm still stuck here for the time being, and i need someplace where i can practice aid/jugging/hauling/rapping. anybody have any creative ideas?
i'd like to start aiding the side of the tollway, but i might get some uneeded attention that way....
i've been exploring topo's trying to find some quarry's, but i'm not having any luck.
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camhead
Dec 1, 2002, 10:57 PM
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hey dude, learn proper use of the apostrophe and plural forms of nouns, and I might tell you a few secrets!
sorry.
No, Dallas suxxass for climbing. Might I suggest the Matilda bridge on Greenville, however?
As for outside stuff, there are aid lines in the Wichitas about three hours north, as well as at Erock, about the same distance to the south.
sorry, but welcome to hell. Wanna know why so many climbers are on this site from Dallas? Because they are NOT out climbing!
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euroford
Dec 1, 2002, 11:07 PM
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haha
yes, i'm certainly quilty of bad typing habbits. in this semi-social setting i'm prone to type as if i was speaking
sooo... you have some secrets eh? buddy, pal, hows it going? thanks for the bridge tip, thats right over near my office. i'll have to check it out after work on monday.
i need to make it up to the witchita's, i crave some real rock like heroin!!
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wv5ten
Dec 1, 2002, 11:12 PM
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my advice, come out here to wv
sucks to hear that, no gyms to go to untill you can hit outside rock?
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euroford
Dec 1, 2002, 11:32 PM
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yeah we actully have some great gyms, and i go frequently.
but they really arn't set up in a way that would allow me to go out and practice aid techneques.
i just need to find a nice drop-off in this baren flat place! i get to rapp of buildings all the time, but thats just for work, so i have to follow the silly and outdated OSHA guidlines.....
(uhg i hate those rappelling racks...)
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rael
Dec 2, 2002, 10:57 PM
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dude, the Wichitas are very awesome. make plans to spend your next day off up there. trust me, you won't be dissapointed.
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fixxervi6
Dec 2, 2002, 11:05 PM
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I go to the whichita's often, its really the only place around thats any good thats close. There is a place in possum kingdom.. help me out guys... but it sucks, no chalk, no lead, crowded, etc etc. The closest large canyon "drop off" I know of is Sain't Jo, but all I know about out there is some best rad azz mtb in the area.
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fixxervi6
Dec 2, 2002, 11:09 PM
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otherwise, welcome to my hell, I'm from West Virginia.. I've put on 25lbs since I've moved here... 3 years ago.
I once heard, they do everything big in TX, hell, even I've gotten bigger since I've moved here.
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rodeomountain
Dec 2, 2002, 11:38 PM
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The Wichita's rock, but you better go with someone who knows the area and has a trad rack. If you've never done crack climbing you'll learn to either love them or hate them cause there's plenty of cracks there. One day there is nowhere near enough time to enjoy that place. Austin has tons of good climbing but no real height but after a great day of climbing you can party your ass off wake up early the next morning, drive 5 minutes and get in plenty of climbing before you come home to big "D". If you play your cards right and climb hard enough you'll revive just in time to do it all again the following weekend.
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euroford
Dec 3, 2002, 5:25 AM
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well, i aided a pretty nice tree after work today yeah, its getting way desperate around here.
i'm a bit of a noob, but i've taken to this climbing thing in a hardcore way for the last 8 months or so. i'm climbing 5.9 consistantly at the gym and i've become a total equipment junky (set up a far end 2:1 hauler off a tree, was very cool).
i've talked with hugepedro about getting up to the witchita's for a nice hardcore intro to real trad, but nothing has came of it yet.
the weather has been on and off great for climbing around here, does anybody want to try and get a witchita trip in soon? i'm sure somebody could use a belayer
what are the living conditions like up there? unfortunatly i havn't aquired camping gear yet (all i want for christmass...), but i'm more than happy to drive
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okieterry
Dec 3, 2002, 5:49 AM
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Although the emphasis in Oklahoma has always been on free climbing, there's also alot of aid climbing in the wichita mountains, at the rock of ages quarry, and quartz mountain. And the future is southeast oklahoma, where we've found a lot of good rock but unfortunately a lot of it is on private land.
I would suggest "Anorexia", at Quartz. You'll love it - you can either nail it or do it clean. Its long and very steep and very clean. Its not that far from you.
For practice near you, find an old silo or a bridge and put up a bolt ladder or something. I've put up glue ups, crack machines, bolt ladders, and bat hook traverses on the bridges around norman.
Cheer up, you're 3.5 hours closer than me to El Potrero (big steep walls).
pm me if you need any info. I'm planning on going to Quartz on sunday.
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fixxervi6
Dec 3, 2002, 3:18 PM
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The weather can get pretty unstable, I've been up there on sunny days, next thing you know I'm trying to duck hail and run tornado's, then its all blue again, it gets cold at night, if your not equiped for winter camping your going to want to stay in one of the hotels or something, watch out tho, a lot of them are total dumps, I stayed in that super9 one time, man, that place was so dirty I wouldn't take my shoes off, but I stayed there anyway, I was tired.
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calamity_chk
Dec 4, 2002, 5:57 PM
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My best advice is to ignore camhead, listen to okieterry and let me know if you'd like a belay on the tollway gig .. I'm always down for weird climbing stuff.
Also, there are some aid routes at e-rock, but the 'tas are actually a little closer (hr - 1/5 hrs, depending on how fast you drive). Plus, they offer more climbing and are very aesthetic.
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euroford
Dec 5, 2002, 3:16 PM
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though the idea of performing some serious aid climbing on dallas highways is very attractive, most of the pitches appear to be highly exposed.
i use the term exposed as in "exposed to public view!". as in, somebody is going to drive by, think your trying to kill yourself, and call the darn coppers!!
clymber_chk, i'm all for it! but i can probobly only scrounge up bail money for 1
by my mapping, it looks about 190 miles addison to witchita's. as far as "texas highway driveing" is concerned, thats not bad, and as long as its A1 grade driveing, i would imagine it could be knocked out in 1.5-1.75 hours at "euroford" pace(which is to say the least, brisk).
so this will CERTAINLY be done, both for aid and free climbing purposes. the trick is: i serisously desire to lower my coeficiant of wank a bit prior to commiting to the trip. thus, some less-exposed dallas style (aka, not on a mountain) climbing must be discovered.
i would like to eliminate as much newby faffing about as posable prior to a real trip. if i make a dedicated climbing trip, i'd like to spend as much time as possable having fun and climbing, knowing i figured out how to rig a frog properly before i left home. i'm sure i'll manufacturer all sorts of new clutsterf*k when i actually get up on a real pitch, but somethings i can get dialed and comfortable with beforehand.
so, my dallas brethren, i call you to mission, pleasse, for the love of gawd, help me scope some spots to play on!!
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oklahoma_climber
Dec 27, 2002, 11:00 PM
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okieterry had it right. Wichitas are the place to go for Oklahoma and North Texas. There are tons of trad and cracks, plus quite a few sport routes that are easy to get to.
As for fixxervi6's weather comment, the weather up here is unpredictable (it snowed 6 inches two days ago, today its close to 60), but tornado season isn't until late March
Good luck
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