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Aaronf8
Jul 19, 2009, 7:22 PM
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Registered: Jul 19, 2009
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I need new bouldering shoes something more aggressive then my Scarpa's. I climb gym mostly and 6V,V7 & V8 are most of my climbs. I think im down to deciding between these two shoes but am not sure which will better suit me or just is a better shoe. give me some help here, thanks.
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go1dens4
Jul 19, 2009, 11:13 PM
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Registered: Jul 19, 2009
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jet7's i have the dragons and have had them resoled once and I am pretty sure they have the same last at the jet7. the optimus prime i know a few people who have them and they all hate them, they all wear out very quickly and the rubber sucks...
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Alpine07
Jul 20, 2009, 1:05 AM
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Registered: Mar 1, 2007
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I was sure this was going to be some crazy transformer showdown...
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Myxomatosis
Jul 20, 2009, 2:34 AM
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Registered: Jun 12, 2007
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Aaronf8 wrote: I need new bouldering shoes something more aggressive then my Scarpa's. I climb gym mostly and 6V,V7 & V8 are most of my climbs. I think im down to deciding between these two shoes but am not sure which will better suit me or just is a better shoe. give me some help here, thanks.
I got some anaza's and pontas's...
While the Evolv rubber is sticky its nearly worn right through to the toe.. and when you consider I had my 5.10's before my evolv's and I only use my 5.10 for indoor and evolv for outdoor only....
5.10 much better buy.
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vegastradguy
Jul 20, 2009, 4:13 AM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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Aaronf8 wrote: I need new bouldering shoes something more aggressive then my Scarpa's. I climb gym mostly and 6V,V7 & V8 are most of my climbs. I think im down to deciding between these two shoes but am not sure which will better suit me or just is a better shoe. give me some help here, thanks.
well, they aren't really that comparable, except for the downturn.
the jet7's are asym shoes and the primes are symmetrical (very round toe). the primes excel on steep edging, especially where you have to toe into holds, but they kinda suck for pockets. i dont know much about the jet7's except that they look like your run of the mill high performance down-turned pointy shoe with a bunch of rubber on the top for toe-hooking.
get the shoe that fits your foot well, but consider that the prime has a symmetrical toe box and has a very specific use, where i suspect the jet 7 may be a bit more versatile, but both shoes are all about the steeps.
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a-e-jones
Jul 20, 2009, 4:22 AM
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Registered: Jul 5, 2008
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Aaronf8 wrote: I need new bouldering shoes something more aggressive then my Scarpa's. I climb gym mostly and 6V,V7 & V8 are most of my climbs. I think im down to deciding between these two shoes but am not sure which will better suit me or just is a better shoe. give me some help here, thanks.
another apparent V8 gym wanker who doesn't know how to pick shoes, whats wrong with people (trolls)
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ptrendler
Jul 20, 2009, 5:03 AM
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Registered: Jun 10, 2008
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brutal. it seems like a-e-jones needs to vent out some anger or agression or something. aren't there more positive ways you can let that out sweet-cheeks?
back on topic, i have had a pair of jet7's that i only break out when stuffs tough (for ME). they are great.
i tried on a pair of scarpa feroce's at work a while back and was very impressed however on how comfortable and supple a tight bouldery fit was for that shoe. might be work checking out.....
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SpasticClimber
Jul 20, 2009, 5:56 AM
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Why are you not considering the Dragons? I purchased a pair of Dragons about the same time as a friend purchased the Jet 7's. We have since come to the conclusion that the Dragons have all the advantages of the Jet 7's (expect perhaps the laces) with a far superior heel. My friend often complained about how loose the heel was on the Jets, although they were still tight and offered great toe power. For his next pair, he is buying the Dragons. I have no comment on these transformers...
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sidepull
Jul 20, 2009, 8:35 AM
Post #9 of 12
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
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I agree with vegastradguy - get the shoe that fits. also, realizing the shoes have different specialities, (and assuming they both fit) pick the one that best fits the type of climbing you'll do. Note: if you aren't climbing really steep stuff, then you likely don't need these shoes (and I'm not talking gym steep).
I also agree with ptrendler's example - go try them on.
Finally, I'm surprised to hear about problems with evolve rubber. I have two shoes that are going on 2 years now and I'm only starting to see wear in my workhorse pair (notice that that last phrase rhymed!).
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Hennessey
Jul 21, 2009, 9:51 AM
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Registered: Dec 3, 2007
Posts: 595
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I had a pair of the Optimus Primes and didn't like them too much. I found that the toe box was way too round. Thongh Evolve rubber is super sticky it does wear down pretty quickly compared to other brands of rubber
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psecody
Jul 22, 2009, 3:55 AM
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Registered: Aug 14, 2007
Posts: 94
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I personally haven't tried out the optimus primes but I have tried a few evolv shoes. My first pair was evolv evo's and I liked them because they were comfortable but I didn't realize how much the evolv rubber sucks till my friend bought the same shoe to replace his mad rocks and stated that he thought they weren't sticky and so I tried his mad rocks and the difference is night and day. I really liked the fit of the evolv's that I've tried but the rubber has always seemed hard and slick compared to others. I finally replaced my evolv's with La Sportiva Vipers and I love them, they're not as sticky as the mad rocks but leaps and bounds ahead of the evolv's and they seem to not be wearing out fast. Just my $0.02 USD
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pijh
Jul 22, 2009, 5:23 AM
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Registered: Apr 8, 2008
Posts: 14
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I have both the Jets and a pair of Optimus (not primes). Both are about the same length but the jets are a SIZE smaller than the optimus. The optimus has stretched a slight bit more than the jets (probably due to the jets toe rubber). I can pretty much use either on most overhanging problems although the Jets do have a much pointier toe (if you are climbing pockets). I think both have pretty similar heels (i sized mine small enough that they aren't going anywhere). I also feel that the jets are much stiffer than the optimus so if you're into a stiffer shoe i would go with the jets.
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