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Louern
Jul 27, 2009, 2:24 PM
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I have some ropes that are getting up there time wise. My oldest is from (cough) 1992 (cough). My newest is from 99. I know the history of the ropes and they have been well taken care of. The 92 has had maybe5 lead falls and the 99 none. I am essentially a top roper and have been lucky to get on the rock 3x a year. In essence, my gear does not get a lot of wear. If I am gonna use these ropes for top roping you you think they are too old?
Yes, I am gonna buy a new one as soon as I get a job. |
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joeforte
Jul 27, 2009, 3:10 PM
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Wow, a 17 year old rope! I definitely would not take a lead fall on it, and I doubt any manufacturer would consider it safe to toprope with it. I think it is recomended that they are retired after 5 years, but like all safety guidelines, this might be a little conservative, especially if you're only using them 3x a year. I'd use the 10 year old one, retire the 17yo, and get a new rope ASAP!
BTW, there's a new rope in the classifieds for $70
(This post was edited by joeforte on Jul 27, 2009, 3:11 PM)
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acorneau
Jul 27, 2009, 3:25 PM
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Consider this information from Beal Ropes:
In reply to: • Lifetime = Time of storage before first use + time in use. The working life depends on the frequency and the type of use. Abrasion, UV exposure and humidity gradually degrade the properties of the rope. Note that with use, a rope thickens and thus loses up to 10 % length. Storage time: In good storage conditions this product may be kept for 5 years before first use without affecting its future lifetime duration in use. Lifetime: - Intensive and daily use: 1 year. - Weekly and intensive use: 2 years. - Daily in-season use of average intensity: 3 years. - Weekly in-season use of average intensity: 5 years. - Several uses during the year of average intensity: 7 years. - Very occasional light use: 10 years. Attention: These are the nominal lifetimes indicated, a rope could be destroyed during its first use. It is the inspections which determine if the product must be scrapped more quickly. Proper storage between uses is essential. The lifetime of the rope in use must never exceed 10 years. The total maximum lifetime (storage before use + lifetime in use) is thus limited to 15 years. The rope must be retired earlier: - if it has held a major fall, approaching fall factor 2 - if inspection reveals or even indicates damage to the core - if the sheath is very worn - if it has been in contact with any active or dangerous chemicals - if there is the slightest doubt about its security
http://www.bealplanet.com/...uree_vie&lang=us
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jt512
Jul 27, 2009, 3:39 PM
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Louern wrote: I have some ropes that are getting up there time wise. My oldest is from (cough) 1992 (cough). My newest is from 99. I know the history of the ropes and they have been well taken care of. The 92 has had maybe5 lead falls and the 99 none. I am essentially a top roper and have been lucky to get on the rock 3x a year. In essence, my gear does not get a lot of wear. If I am gonna use these ropes for top roping you you think they are too old?
If they have been stored properly, and have no damage that you can see or feel, then they should be fine.
In reply to: Yes, I am gonna buy a new one as soon as I get a job.
Send the old ones to me. I'll TR on 'em.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Jul 27, 2009, 3:43 PM)
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billcoe_
Jul 27, 2009, 4:07 PM
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I've only seen one rope break under body weight, an old Edelrid Classic. It was a full sized 11mil. I doubt the kid weighed 130 lbs. So do that math.
Kid was rappelling. Femur broke and was sticking out of his Levis, we splinted, made a rope litter and carried the unconscious kid out, he was lucky to live.
Whats your life worth?
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codhands
Jul 27, 2009, 4:14 PM
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So no other circumstances? You saying an 11mm rope "just" parted, on the weight of a 130lb kid rappelling. I believe you , but I don't "believe" it.
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jt512
Jul 27, 2009, 4:26 PM
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billcoe_ wrote: I've only seen one rope break under body weight, an old Edelrid Classic. It was a full sized 11mil. I doubt the kid weighed 130 lbs. So do that math.
My money is on acid contamination.
Jay
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markc
Jul 27, 2009, 4:46 PM
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jt512 wrote: Louern wrote: I have some ropes that are getting up there time wise. My oldest is from (cough) 1992 (cough). My newest is from 99. I know the history of the ropes and they have been well taken care of. The 92 has had maybe5 lead falls and the 99 none. I am essentially a top roper and have been lucky to get on the rock 3x a year. In essence, my gear does not get a lot of wear. If I am gonna use these ropes for top roping you you think they are too old? If they have been stored properly, and have no damage that you can see or feel, then they should be fine. In reply to: Yes, I am gonna buy a new one as soon as I get a job. Send the old ones to me. I'll TR on 'em. Jay
Agreed. I would not hesitate to use an old (but well-stored) rope for toproping. Based upon some research by Chris Harmston, Pit Schubert, and others, it seems there is little loss of tensile strength in climbing ropes over time. There is a loss of elasticity, which is why I'd retire an older rope for the purposes of leading.
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Factor2
Jul 27, 2009, 4:49 PM
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billcoe_ wrote: I've only seen one rope break under body weight, an old Edelrid Classic. It was a full sized 11mil. I doubt the kid weighed 130 lbs. So do that math. Kid was rappelling. Femur broke and was sticking out of his Levis, we splinted, made a rope litter and carried the unconscious kid out, he was lucky to live. Whats your life worth?
you mean it just straight pulled apart, under a direct pull? I think there were other forces at work there
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james_va
Jul 27, 2009, 5:28 PM
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Louern,
UIAA has put out some memos on rope age that contradict the standard (rope manufacturer) advice on retiring ropes. I've seen something else that also supports the UIAA, but I don't remember what is was off the top of my head.
Obviously, given that it's your life at stake, it's understandable for people to lean toward an aggressive rope-retiring policy (as did I, per manufacturer's advice, for years), but the data do not seem to support this.
If anyone else has specific test info, please post.
Best,
-James
http://www.theuiaa.org/...f_Climbing_Ropes.pdf
http://www.theuiaa.org/..._nylon_and_ropes.pdf
Wet ropes, however, are weaker:
http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/...t%20rope%20table.JPG
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billcoe_
Jul 28, 2009, 7:32 PM
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Factor2 wrote: you mean it just straight pulled apart, under a direct pull? I think there were other forces at work there
Yes, I agree there must have been other forces. 130 lb kid on a rappel and the rope snaps from that kind of bodyweight....
Old rope. Young kid. Bad combo-platter 1976 style. It happened sure as shit though.
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Hennessey
Jul 29, 2009, 12:40 AM
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Sterling Rope Recycling Program
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ladyscarlett
Jul 29, 2009, 10:56 PM
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My buddy said the one in my avatar pic was pretty old, but I don't know the exact history of that rope...
good luck!
ls
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iching
Jul 30, 2009, 5:40 AM
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I use the general rule that I use a rope until my partner is unwilling to climb with it anymore.
I followed a similar practice when I worked on a two man trailcrew in the '70s. We would take a bath when one of us could smell the other. I thought this a pretty good arrangement until our mule skinner arrived in time for lunch one day and I noticed he stayed 15 feet down wind the entire time he was visiting.
I'm not sure if there is a moral to this or not except that I now tend to take baths more frequently than I replace my ropes.
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Louern
Aug 1, 2009, 3:42 AM
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Registered: Jul 23, 2009
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Thanks for all of the responces. One thing I should add however is that due to old age and lack of social skills I am pretty much reduce to climbing with a grigri for a belay. If that changes any opinions out there I would be happy to hear them.
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