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cush
Aug 3, 2009, 3:14 PM
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Registered: Oct 2, 2008
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when looking at a quickdraw runner one side normally is much tighter than the other. on one side the loop is tight enough that when put in, a carabiner will not rotate in the loop, and the other side is loose enough that it will. is there any specific reason for keeping one rigid and the other side floppy? if so, do you put the bolt end or the rope end on the rigid side and why? i know either way it won't compromise the strength of the runner but i was just curious about why they were designed this way.
(This post was edited by cush on Aug 3, 2009, 3:15 PM)
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cavemanNdisguise
Aug 3, 2009, 3:24 PM
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It has to do with giving the rope freedom of movement and decreasing rope drag. The carabiner on the "floppy" end of the dogbone connects to the protection and the carabiner on the "rigid" end of the dogbone connects to the rope. You want to avoid connecting this rope-end carabiner directly to metal whenever possible as it may cause scratches which can damage your rope.
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coastal_climber
Aug 3, 2009, 3:28 PM
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cavemanNdisguise wrote: You want to avoid connecting this rope-end carabiner directly to metal whenever possible as it may cause scratches which can damage your rope.
Good call. I've often seen this overlooked.
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trenchdigger
Aug 3, 2009, 4:16 PM
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cavemanNdisguise wrote: It has to do with giving the rope freedom of movement and decreasing rope drag.
I always thought it had to do with keeping the rope end 'biner from flipping upside-down, making it hard to clip. But what the hell do I know - I'm not much of a sport climber.
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Carnage
Aug 3, 2009, 4:36 PM
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trenchdigger wrote: cavemanNdisguise wrote: It has to do with giving the rope freedom of movement and decreasing rope drag. I always thought it had to do with keeping the rope end 'biner from flipping upside-down, making it hard to clip. But what the hell do I know - I'm not much of a sport climber.
i concur with tranchdigger.
the small end is for keeping the biner from flipping around. there is usually also a rubber thing in there to help keep if from flipping (when it is flipped it is harder to clip). if you have the rope end as the open end, the rope end biner will flip around as you climb.
i second the idea tho that you need to keep a bolt end side of the draw and a rope end. bolt end is the open side of the sling (the way the draws hang on your harness dont allow the biner the flip around easily) and the closed end got to the rope.
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