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rocknrock
Aug 9, 2009, 6:27 PM
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I've noticed some use 'take' to mean 'up rope' while others use 'take' and 'tension' to mean the same thing. Especially for lead climbing this could be a big problem. Because of this I always agree on command meanings before I belay someone. I"ve only been climbing so long, I'm just curious to what are the more common usages of 'take' and 'tension' out there. So far to me it seems most use 'take' and 'tension' to mean the same thing, and fewer use 'take' to mean 'up rope'. thanks
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Bats
Aug 9, 2009, 6:42 PM
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"Take" rest on the rope "Up Rope" take some of the slack up "Tension" I never heard, but the other two I have learned. Up Rope is really good if you are a fast climber. I normally like to clean. My leaders think that I will be sitting trying to work the pro out. Normally I get it out fairly quickly, and start to climb. I think the only time I didn't get pro out quickly when I found some booty but my leader didn't tell me, hoping to stomp me or wanting the booty for themselves.
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sky7high
Aug 9, 2009, 7:43 PM
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I dislike "up rope", I'd rather say "take" for picking up the slack and "tension" for resting on the rope; it makes more sense to me. I'm aware most of my partners don't use the terms that way, so I stick to "up rope" most of the time.
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j_ung
Aug 9, 2009, 8:27 PM
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The technically correct answer is that take means, "I want to fully rest on the rope." Tension and up rope are interchangeable. They both mean, "Make it tighter than it currently is." BUT, what the partners agree to is more important. As long as it means the same thing to both of you... whatever. These days, however, assuming you and your new partner will mean the exact same thing by take, tension and up rope is probably not too bright.
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marc801
Aug 9, 2009, 9:11 PM
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j_ung wrote: The technically correct answer is that take means, "I want to fully rest on the rope." Tension and up rope are interchangeable. They both mean, "Make it tighter than it currently is." Um, not quite. Take = take all the slack out of the system and hold my weight. Up rope = I've got a bunch of slack in my face, take up the rope (but you're not going to be holding my weight) Tension = really haul on the rope and try to assist me up this move. Take wasn't used until the advent of sport climbing, where the belayer would take your weight prior to lowering you. {Edited for clarification}
(This post was edited by marc801 on Aug 9, 2009, 9:14 PM)
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coolcat83
Aug 9, 2009, 9:19 PM
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marc801 wrote: j_ung wrote: The technically correct answer is that take means, "I want to fully rest on the rope." Tension and up rope are interchangeable. They both mean, "Make it tighter than it currently is." Um, not quite. Take = take all the slack out of the system and hold my weight. Up rope = I've got a bunch of slack in my face, take up the rope (but you're not going to be holding my weight) Tension = really haul on the rope and try to assist me up this move. Take wasn't used until the advent of sport climbing, where the belayer would take your weight prior to lowering you. {Edited for clarification} That's how I and most people I've climbed with use it.
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Terry2124
Aug 9, 2009, 9:36 PM
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I have heard "take" used in passing gear to and from partners. "Take" gives item to partner "Got" partner has item in hand and has a secure grip, then his partner let's go. It could be commands used from few people to pass items to ensure it won't be dropped but the most important thing is to ensure whatever command "take", "up rope" and "tension" that everyone is on the same page as to the meaning.
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curt
Aug 9, 2009, 9:53 PM
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j_ung wrote: ...Tension and up rope are interchangeable. They both mean, "Make it tighter than it currently is."... "Tension" and "up rope" are typically not interchangeable. A belayer hearing "up rope" should take the slack out of the belay system, but not actually pull on the climber--i.e., the climber still has the opportunity to complete the pitch free, without resorting to weighting the rope. Curt
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moose_droppings
Aug 9, 2009, 10:22 PM
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I've heard take and tension as interchangeable, while up rope meant taking up slack. Guess it kinda varies from place to place. Which ever is used, iron it out beforehand.
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rgold
Aug 9, 2009, 10:30 PM
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The term "tension" goes way back to the thirties, when aid climbing was known as tension climbing because the leader was held in place by the belayer on the high piece. Originally, there were no aid slings, the leader used rock features for the hands and feet and "tension" from the rope. The original double rope technique evolved from the need to hold the leader in place with tension and yet allow the leader to place something higher and clip a rope into that. But the use of tension from the belayer persisted even after aid slings as the method for aiding on overhanging rock. After these early forms of aid climbing vanished, the word "tension" persisted as a call to be held in place by the belayer, which is essentially what "take," short for "take in" and British in origin, means now. So "take" and "tension" are synonomous, with "tension" now, I thought, in disuse. "Got" seems to have become the belayer's reply to "take," a reassurance that the climber is really going to be held. Using "take" and "got" for passing gear back and forth is just some personal (and preposterous, in my opinion) idiosyncracy. Two people standing next to each other carrying out a low complexity activity need specialized calls for their basic interactions? Wow.
(This post was edited by rgold on Aug 10, 2009, 2:38 AM)
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jt512
Aug 9, 2009, 11:18 PM
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sky7high wrote: I dislike "up rope", I'd rather say "take" for picking up the slack and "tension" for resting on the rope; it makes more sense to me. I'm aware most of my partners don't use the terms that way, so I stick to "up rope" most of the time. Good idea to change the meanings of what are essentially universally recognized climbing commands. We need to abolish standardization, since the meaning of all words is relative anyway. What possible negative consequences could there be if "take" means "take up some of the slack" to you, but "put me on tension" to your belayer? Go for it, I say. Jay
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jt512
Aug 9, 2009, 11:36 PM
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j_ung wrote: The technically correct answer is that take means, "I want to fully rest on the rope." Tension and up rope are interchangeable. They both mean, "Make it tighter than it currently is." BUT, what the partners agree to is more important. As long as it means the same thing to both of you... whatever. These days, however, assuming you and your new partner will mean the exact same thing by take, tension and up rope is probably not too bright. "Tension" and "up rope" are definitely not synonymous. "Take" means "take all the stretch out of the rope, and hold me here." "Tension" is Canadian for "take." "Up rope" means "reduce the amount of slack in the rope, but do not 'take'." It's antonym is "slack." I also disagree that n00bs should make up their own commands. These commands have become so standardized that you can go to just about any crag in North America, and expect to be unambiguously understood with these commands. Jay
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clc
Aug 10, 2009, 1:16 AM
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I'm Canadian and agree with JT. "Tension" and " Take" mean the same thing. And "up rope" means pull in some of the slack in the rope. A climber may say this to the belayer when top roping.
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rocknrock
Aug 10, 2009, 1:22 AM
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clc wrote: I'm Canadian and agree with JT. "Tension" and " Take" mean the same thing. And "up rope" means pull in some of the slack in the rope. A climber may say this to the belayer when top roping. What are you using when lead climbing then in lieu of 'up rope', under those circumstances (you want a bit of slack taken out but not to be tensioned up/held)?
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milesenoell
Aug 10, 2009, 1:58 AM
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jt512 wrote: "Up rope" means "reduce the amount of slack in the rope, but do not 'take'." It's antonym is "slack." Jay Maybe I'm the nOOb making up my own commands but "slack" is what I call to my belayer when I get short-roped on lead.
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jt512
Aug 10, 2009, 2:08 AM
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milesenoell wrote: jt512 wrote: "Up rope" means "reduce the amount of slack in the rope, but do not 'take'." It's antonym is "slack." Jay Maybe I'm the nOOb making up my own commands but "slack" is what I call to my belayer when I get short-roped on lead. And? Jay
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jt512
Aug 10, 2009, 2:09 AM
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rocknrock wrote: clc wrote: I'm Canadian and agree with JT. "Tension" and " Take" mean the same thing. And "up rope" means pull in some of the slack in the rope. A climber may say this to the belayer when top roping. What are you using when lead climbing then in lieu of 'up rope', under those circumstances (you want a bit of slack taken out but not to be tensioned up/held)? It's still "up rope." Jay
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TheChase
Aug 10, 2009, 2:24 AM
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Personally, up rope means take some slack out but don't pull it completely tight. I really only use this in a top belay or top rope scenario. I say tension when I am at the top of a climb or pitch and want to rest on the rope. I was taught to avoid take because if my belayer cannot hear me, like if it's really windy or I am around a bulge, it could be misunderstood as slack. Tension- 2 syllables, take/slack - 1 syllable. Definitely don't want those two getting mixed up.
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yodadave
Aug 10, 2009, 2:33 AM
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for me .... Take is when i'm on the sharp end and peeling off Up Rope is when i'm seconding and climbing faster than the belay
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tradrenn
Aug 10, 2009, 2:45 AM
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sky7high wrote: I dislike "up rope", I'd rather say "take" for picking up the slack and "tension" for resting on the rope; it makes more sense to me. I'm aware most of my partners don't use the terms that way, so I stick to "up rope" most of the time. Lets never climb together. V.
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saxfiend
Aug 10, 2009, 2:45 AM
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yodadave wrote: Take is when i'm on the sharp end and peeling off Unless you're concerned about hitting a ledge below you, I wouldn't do that, especially if you're leading on gear. JL
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yodadave
Aug 10, 2009, 2:51 AM
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i meant thats what i say as i peel not that is what i want done as i peel. I know that makes little sense but thats what i've always said as i fall. Trust me i like a soft catch.
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AntinJ
Aug 10, 2009, 3:05 AM
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*Not to throw another variable into the mix; but I was lead climbing for a few months before I learned the important difference of yelling "TAKE" vs. "FALLING".
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ShibbyShane
Aug 10, 2009, 3:18 AM
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I tend to just use "take." I've heard other people, friends included, using "tension" but I never liked it. And i'd never heard the term "up rope" before this thread. Seems like "up rope" would be hard to hear sometimes because it doesn't have any hard consonants; as opposed to "take."
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jt512
Aug 10, 2009, 3:18 AM
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yodadave wrote: for me .... Take is when i'm on the sharp end and peeling off... Will it take a broken ankle to learn the difference between "take" and "falling"? Jay
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