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rockandlice
Sep 11, 2009, 11:57 PM
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TarHeelEMT wrote: WHAT THE ____?!?!?! What's with that coke bottle?
Seriously? That thing is completely BOMBER!
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TarHeelEMT
Sep 12, 2009, 12:33 AM
Post #27 of 49
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Oh, naturally. I just want to know the back story, if there is one.
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saxfiend
Sep 12, 2009, 3:21 AM
Post #28 of 49
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unrest wrote: So do I have a decent rack for the road? If not what do I need?
JL
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suprasoup
Sep 12, 2009, 10:17 PM
Post #29 of 49
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TarHeelEMT wrote: Oh, naturally. I just want to know the back story, if there is one.
I was racing against the weather and the sun that day. Training session, passive pro only. Climbing solo. Attempted to do a new route with only a 1.5 set of nuts and tricams for gear. So I'm cruising along, 300 ft finished and another 300-400 ft more to go, the weather turns. As the weather started turning ugly (alpine conditions, electrical storms, fog, etc) I decided to link pitches to try to top out faster.
Blasting through the first pitch and deep into the second pitch, I'm massively run out between each piece of pro (think 20-30ft between pieces). Running out of gear and saving the last two tricams (pinkie!!! and red) for the top anchors, I'm stuck midway in a section that'd hold a good #3 to #4 C4. Shinto!! Got nothing that protects! I'm staring at about another 50-60ft before it narrows. Double Shinto!!!
Looking up 50 more feet before I can protect, looking down I'm already 30ft from my last pro (a #4 BD nut). Keep going! The wind is howling and I'm terrifyingly exposed. The farther I push the more freaked out I'm becoming. I'm at the breaking point where I just NEED to get something in. That's when I reached a section where the crack narrows just enough to jam my only piece that'd fit. Whipping out the slung wild cherry pepsi I jam it into the crack. Arrggh! It's not holding well. What to do? What to do? SO I start beating on it with my fist and sure enough carbonation does it's job and it wedges in there tight! With a BOMBER piece between me and certain doom I'm good to go again. I get to the top in good form, build my anchor and on the rappel down to clean my gear I snapped that shot. 
Moral of the story: DON'T be a dumbA$$ like me, especially when you've got a rack like this:
ALWAYS carry your PBR or Nalgene or WILD cherry pepsi
And remember even the perception of safety can allay your fears and allow you to push through at a critical moment
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TarHeelEMT
Sep 12, 2009, 10:49 PM
Post #30 of 49
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Awesome story - great job with the ingenuity.
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glahhg
Sep 12, 2009, 11:56 PM
Post #31 of 49
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kachoong wrote: Truly you'd be better off, as a climber in the long run, to have a rack of just nuts than just cams. To have nut-craft down as a major skill will beat pugging cams in every crack you see.
That's just retarded.
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vegastradguy
Sep 13, 2009, 12:49 AM
Post #32 of 49
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generally speaking, a double rack of cams from blue metolius (or green alien) to a blue camalot, plus a single big piece (#4 camalot, usually)and maybe a micro cam (purple metolius or blue alien size) plus a set of stoppers will get you up just about anything you want to do in the west, with the exception of the Creek.
you might need a third piece here and there, but its unlikely at the grade you're climbing.
bigger stuff is unnecessary unless you're going after it, and micros are usually just a waste of time at the grade you're climbing, unless the route specifically calls for it.
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tradrenn
Sep 14, 2009, 5:13 AM
Post #33 of 49
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glahhg wrote: kachoong wrote: Truly you'd be better off, as a climber in the long run, to have a rack of just nuts than just cams. To have nut-craft down as a major skill will beat plugging cams in every crack you see. That's just retarded.
How do you mean ?
Please elaborate.
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glahhg
Sep 14, 2009, 6:53 PM
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tradrenn wrote: glahhg wrote: kachoong wrote: Truly you'd be better off, as a climber in the long run, to have a rack of just nuts than just cams. To have nut-craft down as a major skill will beat plugging cams in every crack you see. That's just retarded. How do you mean ? Please elaborate.
Okay, I misread part of that. I read it as nuts will beat cams in every crack you see, which is retarded. The part about being better off with just a rack of nuts than cams still stands as retarded.
To contribute better to the thread, I agree 100% with what vegastradguy says.
Sell all your hexes and tricams, and use the money to buy a few more camalots. .75, 1 and 2 lets say.
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kachoong
Sep 14, 2009, 6:58 PM
Post #35 of 49
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glahhg wrote: tradrenn wrote: glahhg wrote: kachoong wrote: Truly you'd be better off, as a climber in the long run, to have a rack of just nuts than just cams. To have nut-craft down as a major skill will beat plugging cams in every crack you see. That's just retarded. How do you mean ? Please elaborate. Okay, I misread part of that. I read it as nuts will beat cams in every crack you see, which is retarded. The part about being better off with just a rack of nuts than cams still stands as retarded. To contribute better to the thread, I agree 100% with what vegastradguy says. Sell all your hexes and tricams, and use the money to buy a few more camalots. .75, 1 and 2 lets say.
My point was that if you have only nuts instead of only cams to use you will be a better climber in the long run. If you rely solely on cams for all your climbing you're retarded! Unless you climb exclusively splitters.
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glahhg
Sep 14, 2009, 7:11 PM
Post #36 of 49
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kachoong wrote: glahhg wrote: Okay, I misread part of that. I read it as nuts will beat cams in every crack you see, which is retarded. The part about being better off with just a rack of nuts than cams still stands as retarded. To contribute better to the thread, I agree 100% with what vegastradguy says. Sell all your hexes and tricams, and use the money to buy a few more camalots. .75, 1 and 2 lets say. My point was that if you have only nuts instead of only cams to use you will be a better climber in the long run. If you rely solely on cams for all your climbing you're retarded! Unless you climb exclusively splitters.
I think your point is actually that it's good to know how to use nuts, which I agree with.
But if you're going to take the idea to black-and-white extremes, consider this: on a huge route if I drop all the nuts, we'll get by. If I drop all the cams, we are screwed.
What is the long run? All there is is what I happen to be climbing right now. If I have no nuts, I'll still probably get up it, maybe wishing I had nuts or risking a big fall on a crappy cam. If I have no cams, it probably ain't happening.
(This post was edited by glahhg on Sep 14, 2009, 7:11 PM)
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hafilax
Sep 14, 2009, 7:15 PM
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kachoong wrote: glahhg wrote: tradrenn wrote: glahhg wrote: kachoong wrote: Truly you'd be better off, as a climber in the long run, to have a rack of just nuts than just cams. To have nut-craft down as a major skill will beat plugging cams in every crack you see. That's just retarded. How do you mean ? Please elaborate. Okay, I misread part of that. I read it as nuts will beat cams in every crack you see, which is retarded. The part about being better off with just a rack of nuts than cams still stands as retarded. To contribute better to the thread, I agree 100% with what vegastradguy says. Sell all your hexes and tricams, and use the money to buy a few more camalots. .75, 1 and 2 lets say. My point was that if you have only nuts instead of only cams to use you will be a better climber in the long run. If you rely solely on cams for all your climbing you're retarded! Unless you climb exclusively splitters.
As a rule, I never trust anyone that makes absolute statements about climbing.
Wait a minute...
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mike_devildog
Sep 14, 2009, 7:31 PM
Post #38 of 49
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Pass through..clip two, love the graphic!
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acorneau
Sep 14, 2009, 7:40 PM
Post #39 of 49
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glahhg wrote: That's just retarded.
glahhg wrote: I read it as nuts will beat cams in every crack you see, which is retarded. The part about being better off with just a rack of nuts than cams still stands as retarded.
kachoong wrote: If you rely solely on cams for all your climbing you're retarded!
hafilax wrote: And if you rely solely on nuts for all of your climbing you're retarded.
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kachoong
Sep 14, 2009, 7:54 PM
Post #40 of 49
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glahhg wrote: kachoong wrote: glahhg wrote: Okay, I misread part of that. I read it as nuts will beat cams in every crack you see, which is retarded. The part about being better off with just a rack of nuts than cams still stands as retarded. To contribute better to the thread, I agree 100% with what vegastradguy says. Sell all your hexes and tricams, and use the money to buy a few more camalots. .75, 1 and 2 lets say. My point was that if you have only nuts instead of only cams to use you will be a better climber in the long run. If you rely solely on cams for all your climbing you're retarded! Unless you climb exclusively splitters. I think your point is actually that it's good to know how to use nuts, which I agree with. But if you're going to take the idea to black-and-white extremes, consider this: on a huge route if I drop all the nuts, we'll get by. If I drop all the cams, we are screwed. What is the long run? All there is is what I happen to be climbing right now. If I have no nuts, I'll still probably get up it, maybe wishing I had nuts or risking a big fall on a crappy cam. If I have no cams, it probably ain't happening.
Yeah, point taken... my main point was your first part there (that it's good to know how to use them), as I was replying to his statement that he'd rather use just cams. I think the first important skill in trad is to able to use nuts well and often, and using cams when any nut just won't do or you gotta go go go. (problem is, most noobs will think cams first because they need to go go go from forearm pump)
I shouldn't take it to black and white, you're right. I should have said to climb without nuts is not a good idea.
I just hate to see new climbers skip great nut placement opportunities, and instead plug another cam in.
I used to like finding routes that I know quite well to practice nutcraft.... to make nut only ascents, leaving the cams on the ground and learning to place and trust passive pro.
...but alas, that's for another topic....
(This post was edited by kachoong on Sep 14, 2009, 7:58 PM)
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suprasoup
Sep 16, 2009, 6:45 PM
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LostinMaine wrote: unrest wrote: [image]http://www.climblog.com/trad-traveler.jpg[/image] Now that's a big tricam in the top left corner. Sell that boat anchor and increase the fuel economy of your car on your trip.
I was thinking the exact same thing, but in regards to the #5 C4. Now that's a boat anchor
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apeman_e
Sep 16, 2009, 8:55 PM
Post #43 of 49
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You don't carry all that at once, do you?
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billcoe_
Sep 17, 2009, 7:18 PM
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apeman_e wrote: You don't carry all that at once, do you?
LOL, no, of course not, you can't even stand up with it all: but you can put it all on and crawl around on all 4's in your house naked.
On the 8 pairs of Jumars thing: one still has to remember to toss them in the pack, or, like the other day, you have 8 worthless unused pairs at home and not where they need to be.
I'm going with what Vegas trad guy said. As far as the tricams, I'd take them on the road trip, there are places where they will work awesome in solution pockets and flaring seams. For myself, I don't even own em, and I'm a gear whore. However, a fella I climb with loves them, and there have been times where he has gotten a placement where ONLY a Tricam would fit, and nothing else. It's pretty specific though.
Here's one of his about 170' off the deck last Saturday which he said he didn't like. It looks good to me but of course, if that rock was wiggling....uhhhh! The route was a FA that started free then went on aid and he hauled those tricam crap up there so he had to use it I suppose. He'd wanted to hammer that rock of of there, but chose to pin it instead with a tricam cause there was a crowd below, all without helmets of course: watching.
Sounds like a great trip dude! Have a blast and we'll all keep our fingers crossed for good weather for you.
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unrest
Sep 23, 2009, 11:26 PM
Post #45 of 49
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LostinMaine wrote: Now that's a big tricam in the top left corner. Sell that boat anchor and increase the fuel economy of your car on your trip.
I do tons and tons of rope soloing and that is my primary base anchor. I never leave the ground with it but I sure climb happier with it wedged between to massive basalt columns.
I think I can even "unstuck" my car if I needed with that thing. Boat anchor though? Hell it's pretty light really.
I sure kicked up some dust with some of that gear. Pretty funny. Glad I didn't post a picture of all of it or I'd have caused a stir.
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acorneau
Sep 24, 2009, 2:50 PM
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unrest wrote: LostinMaine wrote: Now that's a big tricam in the top left corner. Sell that boat anchor and increase the fuel economy of your car on your trip. I do tons and tons of rope soloing and that is my primary base anchor. I never leave the ground with it but I sure climb happier with it wedged between to massive basalt columns. I think I can even "unstuck" my car if I needed with that thing. Boat anchor though? Hell it's pretty light really.
I've started carrying my #5, #6, and #7 Tri-cams and I end up using them a lot, especially for anchors. They're lighter and less expensive than an SLCD of similar size.
Plus you can use them to protect yourself from mountain lions, bears and sport climbers!
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suprasoup
Sep 24, 2009, 5:51 PM
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acorneau wrote: unrest wrote: LostinMaine wrote: Now that's a big tricam in the top left corner. Sell that boat anchor and increase the fuel economy of your car on your trip. I do tons and tons of rope soloing and that is my primary base anchor. I never leave the ground with it but I sure climb happier with it wedged between to massive basalt columns. I think I can even "unstuck" my car if I needed with that thing. Boat anchor though? Hell it's pretty light really. I've started carrying my #5, #6, and #7 Tri-cams and I end up using them a lot, especially for anchors. They're lighter and less expensive than an SLCD of similar size. Plus you can use them to protect yourself from mountain lions, bears and sport climbers!
Hmmm...having been on the receiving end of all three I'll shares my thoughts on this one...
First, the cougar. Now understand that there are two types of cougars. The first type are the true cougars. One you don't ever want to be attacked by. 
The second are the human "cougars. The second, you definitely want to be "attacked" by. 
The choice of Tricams to use against cougars is a tough one. With true cougars you want the biggest baddest tricam of them all, the #7. Granted it ain't gonna do jack, cause if your hand to hand against a cougar your gonna die. UNLESS your CURT (Yup, he's a badass. You're not. PERIOD)
Now the human "cougar" is more likely to use your tricams against you, and believe me you want it to happen, so you want the smallest one you can get. My personal favorite is the pinkie. (makes you more amenable to the "cougars")
Bears are an easy one. Again, only really two types. You've got your true bears; blacks, browns, kodiaks, polar. You come at a bear with a tricam and well, 
and then you've got the Chicago Bears. And let's face it the Chicago Bears aren't a threat to anyone. 
Sport Climbers...Sigh. Unfortunately for us they've been breeding like rabbits. An introduced species from across the pond, once they set foot on our soil there was nothing to check their advance. Show them no mercy my fellow climbers. Chocks, Hexes, Tricams, it's all game. But the lines get fuzzy...some you want to cull and quickly.
Others, well...
Supra.
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billcoe_
Sep 29, 2009, 6:50 PM
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Who just gave this 5 star post a single star? Dude, this is some supremo wisdomo! Maybe 6 stars!
Supra, right on bro!
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wallrat
Oct 2, 2009, 11:04 PM
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While in Squamish, you MUST do Angel's Crest.....a real Classic.
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