|
tangboy
Nov 3, 2001, 6:57 PM
Post #1 of 10
(2322 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2001
Posts: 241
|
Anyone had a zipper? falling and pulling out gear while falling? that would just suck... kinda like vertical limit?
tang
|
|
|
|
|
saltspringer
Nov 3, 2001, 11:54 PM
Post #2 of 10
(2322 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 12, 2001
Posts: 274
|
Worse, I had a zipper-pop once...I zippered my two low pieces (nuts), had a high cam in that held, fell about 8'-10', bounced and then watched my TCU walk out of the crack(pop)! Luckily, I was only about 2' off the ground when I bounced so there was no major damage. This was a few years ago when I thought that a cam was foolproof against a zipper: most are but the TCU's are usually shallow placements w/out much holding them in...
[ This Message was edited by: saltspringer on 2001-11-03 15:56 ]
|
|
|
|
|
pollux
Nov 4, 2001, 12:02 AM
Post #3 of 10
(2322 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2001
Posts: 106
|
had a zipper get stuck after I took a leak.
|
|
|
|
|
jer
Nov 4, 2001, 1:06 AM
Post #4 of 10
(2322 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2000
Posts: 426
|
my ONLY zipper...
Attempting to free pitch 3 of "Touchstone" in Zion Natl Park. Supposedly 11b/c- I placed 3 nuts in about 20 feet- I was gettin totally pumped and starting to doubt that 11b rating. I weighted the nut at my waist; and 'POP!' it came out- I fell to my next nut -'POP!'- and the next - 'POP!'- now I am flying by my belayer(Hello belayer!!) and over a roof that we had passed on the last pitch. The party behind us was just under that roof. The leader let out a YIPE! as I soared past. My rope caught on my belayer's stance and I promptly prussiked back up to him and muttered- that ain't 5.11- you're aiding it!!
Since then - the books have changed the rating to 5.12. Ahhhh - that feels better...
Why did they pop? welp- I was pumped and the rock was soft- I placed bad and from haste placed nuts with short draws.
Moral?
"Commit to longer falls-
by using longer draws-
and save yourself a zipper;
place those nuts-
nice and tight;
and settle for a WHIPPER!"
Jer
|
|
|
|
|
beta
Nov 4, 2001, 7:40 AM
Post #5 of 10
(2322 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2001
Posts: 204
|
Hey Jer,
Nice poetry, practical too, I like it
Jeff
|
|
|
|
|
skupdogg
Nov 4, 2001, 7:49 AM
Post #6 of 10
(2322 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2001
Posts: 50
|
never had a zipper, cause i've never fallen on lead. had to sit down on gear a few times, but i refuse to fall on my own gear, although i'm sure it'll happen some day. (*gulp*)
|
|
|
|
|
saltspringer
Nov 4, 2001, 8:12 AM
Post #7 of 10
(2322 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 12, 2001
Posts: 274
|
how long have you been leading? The gear is there for when you fall so, at the least, try sitting back on a piece once in a while so you know you can trust it...I know that's nothing like taking a fall but it's better than finding out that all of your placements are crap. Another idea is to get an experienced leader to clean your lead & check your placements,
out,
Mike
|
|
|
|
|
old_school
Nov 5, 2001, 4:06 AM
Post #8 of 10
(2322 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2001
Posts: 259
|
extremesport is gonna zipper when he climbes above his level, thats right pete, you heard me!
|
|
|
|
|
extremesport
Nov 8, 2001, 9:43 PM
Post #9 of 10
(2322 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 16, 2001
Posts: 18
|
I laugh at you
I am fine at where I am climbing and I trust my placements and I know they are good. I have learnd from some good guys.
on you
|
|
|
|
|
ratstar
Nov 27, 2001, 6:09 PM
Post #10 of 10
(2322 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 11, 2001
Posts: 1144
|
Quite possible cause everyone that you rip out the next one must catch faster weight. So it is less and less likely to hold. But if your protection is placed right it shouldnt ever happen. I pray that it doesnt ever happen to me.
|
|
|
|
|
|
