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justthemaid
Oct 15, 2009, 3:35 PM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2004
Posts: 777
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Has anyone climbed this recently?
I am working with Erik Wolfe and David Bloom on the new Sedona Climbing Guide. We are down to the final few topos and Oak Creek Spire is one of them. We would like it to be much more descriptive and accurate than the previously published (REALLY crappy) topos if possible.
Neither of our illustrious guide-book authors has actually climbed the spire. (LOL). We are in California at the moment and aren't able to go there in person, so any info you can give me would be greatly appreciated. I've waded through dozens of written descriptions and I'm still not totally clear on the anchor locations.
Here is my understanding of the anchor situation- feel free to correct me:
1) There is a set of anchors at the top of Pitch 1. You can belay off them to get to the better belay up and right on the ledge.
This is also the last rap anchor to the ground requiring only a single rope.
2) There is a set of rap anchors on the north-side lower summit. Climbers left (??). A bit hard to locate. Question: Are these rap anchors only- from the top of the summit? or are they a bit lower and double as belay bolts for the jump-across??? ie: Is the jump-across a bolted rap anchor or is it on gear with the rap anchor out of reach? ...or are there 2 sets of anchors?
This is a double rope-rap to the Pitch 1 ledge.
3) There is a fixed pin somewhere after and above the jump-across. Can you describe where it is?
4) There is a set of chains 15 feet below the summit. Sounds like you traverse around left (?) to get to them ie: Are they are around the left/back of the spire... or are they basically straight up just below the summit cap?
You use these chains to rap back to the lower summit rap anchors. Single rope.
Thanks for any info.
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justthemaid
Oct 15, 2009, 5:07 PM
Post #2 of 3
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Registered: Sep 11, 2004
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I just found a couple videos of people doing the jump-across. It's pretty fuzzy, but looks like a big-gear anchor. Rap anchors are probably above?
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justthemaid
Oct 16, 2009, 1:55 PM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: Sep 11, 2004
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After many hours of searching on line, I finally found a topo of the spire that escaped my initial searches somehow. Steelmonkey actually has a fantastic topo of the spire and shows the rap anchors.
For anyone who is interested:
http://steelmonkeyaz.net/...s/oakcreekspire.html
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