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johnwesely
Oct 23, 2009, 5:00 PM
Post #26 of 55
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donald949 wrote: johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: I have four of the small MadRock lockers. I like them. I didn't want to bring them up, but I have a few as well. Surprisingly good. You were ashamed. Let your gear sin come out into the light. It'z troo. I haz a shit ton of madrock gearz. Forgive me JT, for I haz sinz. I promise to buy petzl next time. Thou shalt not have red gear!!!!! It is ok. As long as you repent, you will be saved. Embrace, I say Embrace your Gear Whoredom nature. For climbers shall not belay by Petzel alone. Terry, join us, its ok. Gear is good. Check out the new 23g Full Strength mini biner: http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/fs_mini_carabiner.html [image]http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/images/FS_Mini-grn.jpg[/image]
I doubt I would be able to clip a rope to those. I have problems clipping my rope to black diamond quicksilvers.
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the_climber
Oct 23, 2009, 5:30 PM
Post #27 of 55
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I miss the old HB small lockers. They were GREAT. Still have 2 left.
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donald949
Oct 23, 2009, 5:38 PM
Post #28 of 55
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johnwesely wrote: donald949 wrote: johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: I have four of the small MadRock lockers. I like them. I didn't want to bring them up, but I have a few as well. Surprisingly good. You were ashamed. Let your gear sin come out into the light. It'z troo. I haz a shit ton of madrock gearz. Forgive me JT, for I haz sinz. I promise to buy petzl next time. Thou shalt not have red gear!!!!! It is ok. As long as you repent, you will be saved. Embrace, I say Embrace your Gear Whoredom nature. For climbers shall not belay by Petzel alone. Terry, join us, its ok. Gear is good. Check out the new 23g Full Strength mini biner: http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/fs_mini_carabiner.html [image]http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/images/FS_Mini-grn.jpg[/image] I doubt I would be able to clip a rope to those. I have problems clipping my rope to black diamond quicksilvers.
I bought some at REI. While I haven't tried a rope, after just playing with them I doubt it would too. But I got them for racking cams. That I tried out, seems to work fine in the store.
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steinmethod
Oct 23, 2009, 6:46 PM
Post #29 of 55
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i have a bunch of the bd quicksilver. they work great.
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sungam
Oct 23, 2009, 7:40 PM
Post #30 of 55
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the_climber wrote: I miss the old HB small lockers. They were GREAT. Still have 2 left.
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acorneau
Oct 23, 2009, 9:50 PM
Post #31 of 55
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I should also pitch out there the Trango Smooth locker:
Don't own any but they're on my wish list.
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getoutmore
Oct 27, 2009, 3:33 AM
Post #32 of 55
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Registered: Oct 26, 2006
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My use for this particular carabiner would be in rope soloing. Small, locking carabiner through the harness, Petzl Shunt on the rope, and a very short runner connecting the shunt and carabiner.
The shorter the carabiner the shorter the fall. Every little bit helps.
Terry
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the_climber
Oct 27, 2009, 2:36 PM
Post #33 of 55
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If you're using the shunt with the approach of every little bit counts (TR solo), then why not clip directly to the shunt?
(This post was edited by the_climber on Oct 27, 2009, 5:14 PM)
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gmggg
Oct 27, 2009, 3:17 PM
Post #34 of 55
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the_climber wrote: If you're using the shunt with the approach of every little bit counts, then why not clip directly to the shunt?
Or better yet, use one of the myriad devices that are better suited for your purpose. Then you don;t have to worry about your biners.
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donald949
Oct 27, 2009, 4:35 PM
Post #35 of 55
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getoutmore wrote: My use for this particular carabiner would be in rope soloing. Small, locking carabiner through the harness, Petzl Shunt on the rope, and a very short runner connecting the shunt and carabiner. The shorter the carabiner the shorter the fall. Every little bit helps. Terry
While I'm not sure about the idea, my thoughts might be towards a robust locking biner, perhaps steel. Cross loading might be a concern???
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shockabuku
Oct 27, 2009, 4:55 PM
Post #36 of 55
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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getoutmore wrote: My use for this particular carabiner would be in rope soloing. Small, locking carabiner through the harness, Petzl Shunt on the rope, and a very short runner connecting the shunt and carabiner. The shorter the carabiner the shorter the fall. Every little bit helps. Terry
You mean for TR rope soloing?
If I was going to use a Shunt for a TR rope solo, I probably wouldn't want any opportunities for slack in my system so I'd just put the biner on the Shunt.
I wouldn't even consider using a Shunt for a lead solo.
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getoutmore
Oct 27, 2009, 7:01 PM
Post #37 of 55
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Registered: Oct 26, 2006
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Yeah, of course for top rope soloing. I use a very short runner that is threaded through the shunt with both ends clipped to the locking carabiner. I use the runner to orientate the shunt correctly, otherwise it runs up the side of the rope, twisting it or I would have to clip into my belay loop to orientate properly. And clipping into solely my belay loop is not something I want to do. As for the shunt itself I really enjoy that it is a simple device and can be used on a single rope or two. With it running on two (one rope) I can simply pull the rope when done.
Soooo, I'm looking for a good, short carabiner. Don't care what it weighs. I'd research it myself, but many manufacturers don't list length.
Thanks for the responses thus far.
Terry
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acorneau
Oct 27, 2009, 7:46 PM
Post #38 of 55
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getoutmore wrote: I use a very short runner that is threaded through the shunt with both ends clipped to the locking carabiner. I use the runner to orientate the shunt correctly, otherwise it runs up the side of the rope, twisting it or I would have to clip into my belay loop to orientate properly. And clipping into solely my belay loop is not something I want to do.
A few thoughts:
First (the one you don't want to hear): clipping the Shunt directly to your belay loop would solve your problems, and that is the way the manufacturer recommends you hook in a biner to your harness. But whatever...
Second: why not put the sling through your harness and use the biner between the sling and the Shunt, instead of the other way around? If you're worried about cross-loading the biner then use a mega-strong quicklink.
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gmggg
Oct 27, 2009, 8:49 PM
Post #39 of 55
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Registered: Jun 25, 2009
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acorneau wrote: getoutmore wrote: I use a very short runner that is threaded through the shunt with both ends clipped to the locking carabiner. I use the runner to orientate the shunt correctly, otherwise it runs up the side of the rope, twisting it or I would have to clip into my belay loop to orientate properly. And clipping into solely my belay loop is not something I want to do. A few thoughts: First (the one you don't want to hear): clipping the Shunt directly to your belay loop would solve your problems, and that is the way the manufacturer recommends you hook in a biner to your harness. But whatever... Second: why not put the sling through your harness and use the biner between the sling and the Shunt, instead of the other way around? If you're worried about cross-loading the biner then use a mega-strong quicklink.
But quicklinks are not:
1.sexy
2.anodized
3.expensive
Question for the OP: Are you slinging the shunt so that you can keep it above your harness and running smooth, or are you pulling it up manually?
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getoutmore
Oct 28, 2009, 8:10 PM
Post #40 of 55
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I'm not wearing a chest harness. Thus the shunt, in the scenario we're talking about, sits a few inches below the tie-in points of my harness while I'm climbing. When I fall it rests a few inches above the tie-in points.
What I'm looking for are simple ways to shorten that length. The runner I use adds maybe 1/2 inch. It is the carabiner that adds the greatest length and is why I'm looking for a good, short carabiner.
I realize there are more ways to use the shunt and that there are other ascenders out there, but that is not what I'm interested in at the moment. In fact, I use the shunt differently sometimes and own other ascenders.
Terry
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gmggg
Oct 28, 2009, 11:19 PM
Post #41 of 55
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getoutmore wrote: I'm not wearing a chest harness. Thus the shunt, in the scenario we're talking about, sits a few inches below the tie-in points of my harness while I'm climbing. When I fall it rests a few inches above the tie-in points. What I'm looking for are simple ways to shorten that length. The runner I use adds maybe 1/2 inch. It is the carabiner that adds the greatest length and is why I'm looking for a good, short carabiner. I realize there are more ways to use the shunt and that there are other ascenders out there, but that is not what I'm interested in at the moment. In fact, I use the shunt differently sometimes and own other ascenders. Terry
Then take the quick link option. And please try not to fall with any slack in the system.
Good luck, yurgunnady
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billcoe_
Oct 28, 2009, 11:56 PM
Post #42 of 55
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I would NOT use the trango superfly screw gate for what you want. NOT!
...and I own 6 or 7 and love em too.
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the_climber
Oct 29, 2009, 6:06 AM
Post #43 of 55
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getoutmore wrote: *snip8 shunt, *snip*
From one shunt user to another... uh... well, that's how it works. It has limitations. Know them, and use it within the limitations, not beyond. There are reasons I still use the device... there are also reasons I use it knowing the limitations; this is true will all gear.
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getoutmore
Oct 29, 2009, 7:01 PM
Post #44 of 55
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What are you saying, that I'm doing things okay or not? Of course I realize that the shunt has limitations, two of the biggest would be,
1. Don't use on a wet or icy rope
2. Don't use on overhanging terrain
Terry
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shoo
Oct 29, 2009, 7:22 PM
Post #45 of 55
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getoutmore wrote: What are you saying, that I'm doing things okay or not? Of course I realize that the shunt has limitations, two of the biggest would be, 1. Don't use on a wet or icy rope 2. Don't use on overhanging terrain Terry
Also add: don't even think about grabbing it when you fall.
Really, the shunt is a pretty poor device overall for TR self-belay.
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gmggg
Oct 29, 2009, 8:44 PM
Post #46 of 55
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getoutmore wrote: What are you saying, that I'm doing things okay or not? Of course I realize that the shunt has limitations, two of the biggest would be, 1. Don't use on a wet or icy rope 2. Don't use on overhanging terrain Terry
Why do you think it is not ok for overhanging terrain? Presuming that you are comfortable with it on slab-vert...
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shoo
Oct 29, 2009, 8:46 PM
Post #47 of 55
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gmggg wrote: Why do you think it is not ok for overhanging terrain? Presuming that you are comfortable with it on slab-vert...
I would assume that the reason is that it would be a PITA once you fall. You can't rap with it, so you have to free youself and get on a separate device or else ascend or somehow swing back in.
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getoutmore
Oct 29, 2009, 8:49 PM
Post #48 of 55
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Because Petzl says it isn't. The lever sticking out from the shunt on overhanging terrain can press against the abdomen releasing the brake causing one to slide down the rope rather fast.
It is up to the user to determine how overhanging a route can be before it is unsafe. Personally I find myself on slightly overhanging routes with the shunt on occasion or a route that is overhanging for a short distance.
Terry
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gmggg
Oct 29, 2009, 9:11 PM
Post #49 of 55
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shoo wrote: gmggg wrote: Why do you think it is not ok for overhanging terrain? Presuming that you are comfortable with it on slab-vert... I would assume that the reason is that it would be a PITA once you fall. You can't rap with it, so you have to free youself and get on a separate device or else ascend or somehow swing back in.
Wouldn't that be true for many devices used to rope solo?
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gmggg
Oct 29, 2009, 9:13 PM
Post #50 of 55
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getoutmore wrote: Because Petzl says it isn't. The lever sticking out from the shunt on overhanging terrain can press against the abdomen releasing the brake causing one to slide down the rope rather fast. It is up to the user to determine how overhanging a route can be before it is unsafe. Personally I find myself on slightly overhanging routes with the shunt on occasion or a route that is overhanging for a short distance. Terry
You should do some research on why the shunt isn't generally used for rope solos. Although for tr solos I would be comfortable using it in a pinch.
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