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Book on knots wtf.
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binrat


Nov 5, 2009, 11:13 PM
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Re: [Crack_Addict_Ty] Book on knots wtf. [In reply to]
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If it locks up, simply raise your leg high high to unlock it. Of course you have to have the brake on.

binrat


justroberto


Nov 5, 2009, 11:18 PM
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Re: [nate2006] Book on knots wtf. [In reply to]
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nate2006 wrote:
Because no matter what, the ends of your rope should always have knots in it for rappel.

How's that working out for you?


bill413


Nov 6, 2009, 12:14 AM
Post #28 of 31 (326 views)
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
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Re: [Crack_Addict_Ty] Book on knots wtf. [In reply to]
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Crack_Addict_Ty wrote:
airscape wrote:
Crack_Addict_Ty wrote:
airscape wrote:
I have never seen a prusik above the rap device.

Would that not make it out of reach if it goes tight?

And also make your entire weight hang from your leg loop?

You've obviously never seen me rap then.,...........or a lot of other people for that matter.

I attache the prussik to my belay loop with a locking biner, so no leg loops involved.

THat is not what the book shows.
And that is my problem with it.

I wouldn't have had a problem if the prusik is on the main line above the rap device and the cord is attached to the belay loop or tie ins.

Good point, I will agree and say that I really have never understood the idea behind attaching your prussik to a leg loop. Can anyone enlighten me on the this one.

P.S. I am too lazy to search

Well, if you have your friction knot below the rap device, you need to adjust the length of things so that the knot doesn't get sucked up into the device, causing it either to lock up or keep in a free sliding state. One method is to extend the attachment to the rap device out, so it's further from you; the other is to clip the knot to a leg loop. You may still need to extend the device.
So, basically it's a way of adjusting lengths, keeping things where you want them.

As said, leg loop + knot above device = bad.


nate2006


Nov 6, 2009, 2:17 AM
Post #29 of 31 (302 views)
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Re: [justroberto] Book on knots wtf. [In reply to]
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justroberto wrote:
nate2006 wrote:
Because no matter what, the ends of your rope should always have knots in it for rappel.

How's that working out for you?

Good.


Partner xtrmecat


Nov 6, 2009, 2:55 AM
Post #30 of 31 (298 views)
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
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Re: [airscape] Book on knots wtf. [In reply to]
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airscape wrote:
SOOOO in the name of science I have tested it:

[image]http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt3/chewy_dragee/Untitled-1.jpg[/image]

This will not work, you completely invert.

Please note I used a sling with a klemheist instead of a cord with a prusik, but I am hanging on only my legloop.

The whole point with a Rappel back up is in case of emergencies, I do not think hanging upside down on your leg loop will help any situation.

That is all.

No it's not all

Please try it yourself.

THe WHOLE point of this thread is not nitpicking or discussing viable options.
I have a book that teaches the WRONG thing..,

Thist thread is nothing more than a book review

I give Knots & Ropes for climbers a 1/5


Uhh, I use this as shown and have for over ten years running with absolutely no issues. Never been able to screw it up yet. Very handy actually. I have no idea how you think this is unsafe, unusable, or even hard to search.

The only time I do not use it as shown is when I am rapping with a pig or two(big-heavy load), but we have little need to go there now. Good thing your rating of this literature means nothing.

Bob


bill413


Nov 6, 2009, 4:27 AM
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Re: [xtrmecat] Book on knots wtf. [In reply to]
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xtrmecat wrote:
airscape wrote:
SOOOO in the name of science I have tested it:

[image]http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt3/chewy_dragee/Untitled-1.jpg[/image]

This will not work, you completely invert.

Please note I used a sling with a klemheist instead of a cord with a prusik, but I am hanging on only my legloop.

The whole point with a Rappel back up is in case of emergencies, I do not think hanging upside down on your leg loop will help any situation.

That is all.

No it's not all

Please try it yourself.

THe WHOLE point of this thread is not nitpicking or discussing viable options.
I have a book that teaches the WRONG thing..,

Thist thread is nothing more than a book review

I give Knots & Ropes for climbers a 1/5


Uhh, I use this as shown and have for over ten years running with absolutely no issues. Never been able to screw it up yet. Very handy actually. I have no idea how you think this is unsafe, unusable, or even hard to search.

The only time I do not use it as shown is when I am rapping with a pig or two(big-heavy load), but we have little need to go there now. Good thing your rating of this literature means nothing.

Bob

Bob (X) -- you've been rigging a prussik above your ATC and fixing the prussik to your leg loop? I'm curious...given that the prussik as a rappel backup has been brought into serious question (it's hard to let go of a rope when you need it), and the inverting issue with affixing a suspension device to your leg loop...

Does "use...with no issues" mean that you'vee never had to rely on it...and it feeds nicely? Or does it mean that you don't invert when you loose control & the prussik locks up...or some other criteria?
?

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