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johnwesely
Nov 10, 2009, 1:27 PM
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TradEddie wrote: I think I win this one for quantity of injuries doing perfectly safe things: -Slipped off 6 inch kerb (curb) - fractured tibia. -Fell off chair - fractured collarbone. -Fell about 3 feet onto grass - detached retina, BOTH eyes. -Fell over while standing still on skis, fractured tibia. Despite all the stupid and dangerous things I've done, none of them has ever resulted in anything worse than cuts, bruises, or pulled muscles. Ignorance is bliss. TE Somehow, I think the way you do perfectly safe things is not so safe.
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dugl33
Nov 11, 2009, 4:27 AM
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justroberto wrote: kyleshea wrote: a story on a building with standard 8 foot ceilings is 9 feet, little less. This is almost never the case, especially in multistory construction. umm... well for residential construction that's about right. 1.5" + 92.25" + 3" + 11.25" + .75" = 108.75" which = 9.0625 feet (floor to floor distance) bottom plate, stud length, double top plate, joist, and floor sheathing...typical sizing, of course
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justroberto
Nov 11, 2009, 5:06 PM
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Residential construction? Never heard of it.
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graniteboy
Nov 12, 2009, 11:44 PM
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As a lifelong skier and ice climber, whose misspent youth involved lots and lots of cliff jumping on skis, the answer to your question just depends. Height is not the only consideration..... I used to regularly jump off of 40' cliffs with little or no forward momentum, onto near flat surfaces.....with no broken bones. Granted, snow gives alot of cushion, but 40' should be easily survivable without injury in a bouldering fall if you had 2 fat pads and knew exactly how to land. Oh, and did I mention I had bone developmental problems in my shins from too many impacts as a teenager?
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dynosore
Nov 12, 2009, 11:58 PM
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dugl33 wrote: justroberto wrote: kyleshea wrote: a story on a building with standard 8 foot ceilings is 9 feet, little less. This is almost never the case, especially in multistory construction. umm... well for residential construction that's about right. 1.5" + 92.25" + 3" + 11.25" + .75" = 108.75" which = 9.0625 feet (floor to floor distance) bottom plate, stud length, double top plate, joist, and floor sheathing...typical sizing, of course It's been a while, but I'm almost certain a standard stud is 92-5/8, not 92-1/4. Just wanted to point that out, since you carried your calculation out to half a dozen sig figs
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kyleshea
Nov 13, 2009, 12:01 AM
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dynosore wrote: dugl33 wrote: justroberto wrote: kyleshea wrote: a story on a building with standard 8 foot ceilings is 9 feet, little less. This is almost never the case, especially in multistory construction. umm... well for residential construction that's about right. 1.5" + 92.25" + 3" + 11.25" + .75" = 108.75" which = 9.0625 feet (floor to floor distance) bottom plate, stud length, double top plate, joist, and floor sheathing...typical sizing, of course It's been a while, but I'm almost certain a standard stud is 92-5/8, not 92-1/4. Just wanted to point that out, since you carried your calculation out to half a dozen sig figs in canada precut 8' studs measure 92.25 inches. maybe some other places use those studs as well. i found it a bit weird when i first encountered them.
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dugl33
Nov 13, 2009, 12:42 AM
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kyleshea wrote: dynosore wrote: dugl33 wrote: justroberto wrote: kyleshea wrote: a story on a building with standard 8 foot ceilings is 9 feet, little less. This is almost never the case, especially in multistory construction. umm... well for residential construction that's about right. 1.5" + 92.25" + 3" + 11.25" + .75" = 108.75" which = 9.0625 feet (floor to floor distance) bottom plate, stud length, double top plate, joist, and floor sheathing...typical sizing, of course It's been a while, but I'm almost certain a standard stud is 92-5/8, not 92-1/4. Just wanted to point that out, since you carried your calculation out to half a dozen sig figs in canada precut 8' studs measure 92.25 inches. maybe some other places use those studs as well. i found it a bit weird when i first encountered them. Well, my framing days (in good ol' cali-forni-ay), were in the 90's, so maybe things have changed. For some reason some constants stick in the brain though, like 6.02 x 10^23, 3.14159, and an 8' stud = 92-1/4. Of course .0625 feet is really just 3/4", no? Cheers.
(This post was edited by dugl33 on Nov 13, 2009, 12:47 AM)
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peg_leg1
Nov 13, 2009, 1:29 AM
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Watch "The Sharp End" video. It has all kind of long whippers on trad (Matt Segall taking a 60 footer) and some high ball bouldering falls (Lisa Rands taking a 25-30 ft fall). Great stuff.
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bradley3297
Nov 13, 2009, 1:59 AM
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i know for a fact if you dont land on your feet a 15 foot fall will cause internal organ damage.
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yanqui
Nov 14, 2009, 3:03 AM
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When a hold broke, before there were pads, I once fell hard on my ass onto a rock from ... well let's see. The first good hand jam on the problem is a big reach after a solid two moves above the start. Maybe 10 feet up? On the exit, your feet are jammed in a few feet above this and your hands are stretched out high to reach the top. Maybe 20 feet? The handhold broke and I fell on my ass. It hurt like hell, but a couple of weeks of dyclofenac and I was as good as new. While I'll agree with you that claims of multiple falls from 40+ sound like bullshit, I'd also have to say that if 99% of the boulders you are seeing are less than 10 feet high, than you have a VERY limited experience with bouldering. Here, for example, is what I would consider a fairly average boulder (not a high ball). with about 10 problems on it, and pretty much all of them are more than 10 feet high: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...s/Detailed/1029.html
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dugl33
Nov 14, 2009, 4:56 AM
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phillygoat wrote: graniteboy wrote: ... but 40' should be easily survivable without injury in a bouldering fall if you had 2 fat pads and knew exactly how to land. or good spotters, right? 2 men catch toddler after 40-foot fall If that picture is implying the toddler fell out of the top story window, that's still "only" 25 feet or so.
(This post was edited by dugl33 on Nov 14, 2009, 4:58 AM)
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JasonsDrivingForce
Nov 18, 2009, 8:55 PM
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dugl33 wrote: phillygoat wrote: graniteboy wrote: ... but 40' should be easily survivable without injury in a bouldering fall if you had 2 fat pads and knew exactly how to land. or good spotters, right? 2 men catch toddler after 40-foot fall [image]http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_f98opUNuVXc/SdHhJ5q2DGI/AAAAAAAAGRw/dlTy4vIdJGM/s400/Alex+Day.jpg[/img] If that picture is implying the toddler fell out of the top story window, that's still "only" 25 feet or so. You can’t see the ground in that picture. There is definitely a basement there and you can’t tell how tall it is. It could be more than 25 feet or it could be 25 feet as it appears. However, you can’t tell unless you can see the ground as well.
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pfwein
Nov 18, 2009, 9:20 PM
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camhead wrote: Next time you are at a pool, or see a signed road underpass, etc., pay attention to how high 12, 15, or 20 feet are; I guarantee that they are higher than you would estimate. A controlled bouldering fall of 15 feet even onto well stacked pads is fricking scary; an out-of-control fall from that height is terrifying, and you walk away surprised that you did not break something. Plz make sure you don't go The Spot bouldering gym in Boulder, CO. Their boulders are 18', so you would be frickin scared coming off from the top of the boulders, even on to well stacked pads. For everyone else, check out Spot, it's great fun. (Falling from the top of the boulders directly on to the floor is a bit scary and I make a point of not doing it, but with pads, it's all good for people with average perception of what's scary.)
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csproul
Nov 18, 2009, 10:24 PM
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pfwein wrote: camhead wrote: Next time you are at a pool, or see a signed road underpass, etc., pay attention to how high 12, 15, or 20 feet are; I guarantee that they are higher than you would estimate. A controlled bouldering fall of 15 feet even onto well stacked pads is fricking scary; an out-of-control fall from that height is terrifying, and you walk away surprised that you did not break something. Plz make sure you don't go The Spot bouldering gym in Boulder, CO. Their boulders are 18', so you would be frickin scared coming off from the top of the boulders, even on to well stacked pads. For everyone else, check out Spot, it's great fun. (Falling from the top of the boulders directly on to the floor is a bit scary and I make a point of not doing it, but with pads, it's all good for people with average perception of what's scary.) Yeah, landing on a soft, level indoor gym floor with pads is the same as an 18 ft landing outside. And you'd still have to jump from the top of the boulders to make an 18 ft fall.
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pfwein
Nov 19, 2009, 12:07 AM
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csproul wrote: pfwein wrote: camhead wrote: Next time you are at a pool, or see a signed road underpass, etc., pay attention to how high 12, 15, or 20 feet are; I guarantee that they are higher than you would estimate. A controlled bouldering fall of 15 feet even onto well stacked pads is fricking scary; an out-of-control fall from that height is terrifying, and you walk away surprised that you did not break something. Plz make sure you don't go The Spot bouldering gym in Boulder, CO. Their boulders are 18', so you would be frickin scared coming off from the top of the boulders, even on to well stacked pads. For everyone else, check out Spot, it's great fun. (Falling from the top of the boulders directly on to the floor is a bit scary and I make a point of not doing it, but with pads, it's all good for people with average perception of what's scary.) Yeah, landing on a soft, level indoor gym floor with pads is the same as an 18 ft landing outside. And you'd still have to jump from the top of the boulders to make an 18 ft fall. Well son it's like this. Camhead didn't say 18', he said 15'. Now you may think most people are over 3 feet tall, and you'd be right. But you ever hear of anything called a mantel? If that rings a bell, how high would your feet be when topping out that 18' boulder? And Mr. Camhead also specified "well stacked pads." I'm guessing from your post that you don't climb outside much and get shit-scared when you do. But if you can get over your fear of being outside, you'll understand that "well stacked pads" aren't smart enough to know if they're outside or inside. So even though you may be extra scared from being outside, the pads will work just as well. Glad I could clear that up for ya, Jr.
(This post was edited by pfwein on Nov 19, 2009, 12:08 AM)
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csproul
Nov 19, 2009, 12:33 AM
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pfwein wrote: csproul wrote: pfwein wrote: camhead wrote: Next time you are at a pool, or see a signed road underpass, etc., pay attention to how high 12, 15, or 20 feet are; I guarantee that they are higher than you would estimate. A controlled bouldering fall of 15 feet even onto well stacked pads is fricking scary; an out-of-control fall from that height is terrifying, and you walk away surprised that you did not break something. Plz make sure you don't go The Spot bouldering gym in Boulder, CO. Their boulders are 18', so you would be frickin scared coming off from the top of the boulders, even on to well stacked pads. For everyone else, check out Spot, it's great fun. (Falling from the top of the boulders directly on to the floor is a bit scary and I make a point of not doing it, but with pads, it's all good for people with average perception of what's scary.) Yeah, landing on a soft, level indoor gym floor with pads is the same as an 18 ft landing outside. And you'd still have to jump from the top of the boulders to make an 18 ft fall. Well son it's like this. Camhead didn't say 18', he said 15'. Now you may think most people are over 3 feet tall, and you'd be right. But you ever hear of anything called a mantel? If that rings a bell, how high would your feet be when topping out that 18' boulder? And Mr. Camhead also specified "well stacked pads." I'm guessing from your post that you don't climb outside much and get shit-scared when you do. But if you can get over your fear of being outside, you'll understand that "well stacked pads" aren't smart enough to know if they're outside or inside. So even though you may be extra scared from being outside, the pads will work just as well. Glad I could clear that up for ya, Jr. "Son"...that's funny...and I was just starting to think I was getting old! I think you'll still agree that most climbers behave a little differently 18 feet above a gym floor than they will 18 feet above a natural landing, even with pads. A few stacked crash pads still don't offer as much protection as a soft gym floor with big cushy gym pads. Maybe you do have bigger balls than the average climber, or maybe you're about as smart as those "well stacked pads". As far as being scared...yeah, an 18 ft fall outdoor bouldering fall would probably scare me, but I'm not the one bragging about a brave indoor gym fall.
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byran
Nov 19, 2009, 4:10 AM
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I'm pretty sure anyone who's actually old enough to be throwing down words like "son" and "jr" is way too old to be throwing their body off 18ft boulders.
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kriso9tails
Nov 19, 2009, 5:33 AM
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You sound like a fucking n00b with this badass wannabe bullshit. I mean, you totally spayed with how hardcore the gym you climb at is. Really?
I'm all for it though. [edit] From The Spot's website:
In reply to: ...and the cushiest high tech flooring to be found anywhere! Stfu poseur! Warmest regards, Kris
(This post was edited by kriso9tails on Nov 19, 2009, 5:40 AM)
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pfwein
Nov 19, 2009, 5:48 AM
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byran wrote: I'm pretty sure anyone who's actually old enough to be throwing down words like "son" and "jr" is way too old to be throwing their body off 18ft boulders. Young man, you're partially correct. I do in fact make sure I have a jumbo cushy pad beneath me if I expect to be coming off from the top of the highest parts of the boulders at Spot, and I'll probably just drop off (in control) rather than come flying off the top if I'm struggling. That's being calmly rational rather than being "frickin scared." Maybe you young whipper snappers just need a little more practice.
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pfwein
Nov 19, 2009, 5:54 AM
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kriso9tails wrote: You sound like a fucking n00b with this badass wannabe bullshit. I mean, you totally spayed with how hardcore the gym you climb at is. Really? I'm all for it though. [edit] From The Spot's website: In reply to: ...and the cushiest high tech flooring to be found anywhere! Stfu poseur! Warmest regards, Kris The Spot doesn't need me to spray about it; it's one of the sikest gyms in the US (well at least on the Colorado Front Range, the only gyms I'm familiar with). Just saying you kids don't need to "friken scared" to climb there: they have shorter boulders to practice on and build up your confidence. If you work hard, stay in school, and don't get hooked up with the wrong crowd, maybe one day you'll grow up and be ready for the big-boy (18') boulders.
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kriso9tails
Nov 19, 2009, 6:00 AM
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pfwein wrote: kriso9tails wrote: You sound like a fucking n00b with this badass wannabe bullshit. I mean, you totally spayed with how hardcore the gym you climb at is. Really? I'm all for it though. [edit] From The Spot's website: In reply to: ...and the cushiest high tech flooring to be found anywhere! Stfu poseur! Warmest regards, Kris The Spot doesn't need me to spray about it; it's one of the sikest gyms in the US (well at least on the Colorado Front Range, the only gyms I'm familiar with). It does look pretty sweet.
In reply to: Just saying you kids don't need to "friken scared" to climb there: they have shorter boulders to practice on and build up your confidence. If you work hard, stay in school, and don't get hooked up with the wrong crowd, maybe one day you'll grow up and be ready for the big-boy (18') boulders. Meh, that's even weaker than my pathetic smack talk, especially from someone who needs to back up the cushy gym floor with more pads. You know that it doesn't really count as an 18' problem if you stack pads 5' high, right? I hereby revoke your 'son' privileges.
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yanqui
Nov 19, 2009, 11:24 AM
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pfwein wrote: camhead wrote: Next time you are at a pool, or see a signed road underpass, etc., pay attention to how high 12, 15, or 20 feet are; I guarantee that they are higher than you would estimate. A controlled bouldering fall of 15 feet even onto well stacked pads is fricking scary; an out-of-control fall from that height is terrifying, and you walk away surprised that you did not break something. Plz make sure you don't go The Spot bouldering gym in Boulder, CO. Their boulders are 18', so you would be frickin scared coming off from the top of the boulders, even on to well stacked pads. Probably everyone's seen this by now, but it seemed fitting to this 18 foot gym fall post. Here's a kid taking what looks to be about an 18 footer onto a bad landing, It also looks like they didn't do the best job setting up the spotting/pad arrangement. However, it does show that an 18 footer with a bad landing is definitely a highball. http://deadpointmag.com/...highballing-goes-bad
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JasonsDrivingForce
Nov 19, 2009, 2:01 PM
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At a recent bouldering competition the setters decided to “scare the kids”. Problems number 2 and 3 of the 50+ problems they created were the green route and yellow route in the picture below. I didn’t measure them but my son who is standing in the middle of the picture is 46” tall. I would guess the green route was about 14’ high. Does anyone else think that is a little high for kids bouldering competition? My son eventually climbed those two routes but it took a very scary dyno at about 10’ for him to get the green route.
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