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dindolino32
Nov 14, 2009, 3:12 AM
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So I can climb somewhat hard (5.12 on a great day), but while dorking out and watching some climbing videos, I notice Sharma not using his index finger during certain parts of his climbs. Example from http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-200477265572892748&hl=en# at 3:53, 3:57 and 4 minutes. I've seen him do this in other videos and was curious if I am missing some technique, or if he is just keeping his strength for another part. I thought that might be a good reason, but I found a video of him doing it on a bouldering problem at 0:26 of http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-200477265572892748&hl=en#docid=8286220861622776314 Let me know if you have any insight.
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johnwesely
Nov 14, 2009, 3:23 AM
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Because that is the best way to use two finger pockets.
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fist
Nov 14, 2009, 4:01 AM
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That's pretty much it. It feels weird at first but after you get used to it it's much stronger to use your ring+middle instead of index+middle
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agdavis
Nov 14, 2009, 5:28 AM
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It's like a bowling ball -- you use your middle and ring fingers. Using those two fingers makes a straighter line through your arm and thus feels more natural/strong. Give it a try.
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jomagam
Nov 14, 2009, 6:23 AM
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Doesn't Dave Graham use index+middle for two finger pockets ?That way you could help with your thumb. |
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dindolino32
Nov 14, 2009, 3:40 PM
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sorry, this topic has been covered in other threads to a great degree. My searches didnt include 2 finger pockets, hence i didnt find anything at all. I thought maybe it was about the direction of pull. Sorry to be redundant in questions. I always hate when a question pops up like," how do I lead?" or "what gear should I get for a beginner?". So sorry about that.
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tomtom
Nov 14, 2009, 3:58 PM
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At least half of Tommy Caldwell's grips don't use an index finger.
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milesenoell
Nov 14, 2009, 7:17 PM
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tomtom wrote: At least half of Tommy Caldwell's grips don't use an index finger. I was waiting for that one.
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docburner
Nov 14, 2009, 9:28 PM
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For me it depends on the hold. For this type of thing and most other types of moves I find it best to practice easier climbs only using a particular technique even if it is wrong for that move. It forces your body to learn the technique and then when you are on hard climbs you will naturally go to the technique that works best for the move.
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curt
Nov 15, 2009, 12:29 AM
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docburner wrote: For me it depends on the hold. For this type of thing and most other types of moves I find it best to practice easier climbs only using a particular technique even if it is wrong for that move. It forces your body to learn the technique and then when you are on hard climbs you will naturally go to the technique that works best for the move. Yes, I think it almost always depends on the hold. It also depends on whether you normally prefer to crimp on holds versus using a more open-hand technique. Curt
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Costa
Nov 15, 2009, 9:10 AM
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tomtom wrote: At least half of Tommy Caldwell's grips don't use an index finger. I was trying to think of his name.... Atleast we have a choice though
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headchop
Nov 16, 2009, 2:54 PM
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Depends on the pocket in question - orientation and angle of pull. I find index-middle stronger but usually less comfortable/natural than middle-ring.
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ceebo
Nov 18, 2009, 6:41 PM
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I was messing around with this yesterday to find out. My index finger is by far the most comfortable one to use but although my middle finger didnt feel as confortable as index it was infact stronger. My index is miles stronger than my ring finger but ive started traversing with middle/ring now to try and even it out. Perhaps the uncomfortable feeling of using that ring finger is stoping me from notocing how strong it actually may be. Hopfully in a few weeks ill get use to the feeling of it and it will be fine
(This post was edited by ceebo on Nov 18, 2009, 6:42 PM)
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