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johnwesely
Nov 13, 2009, 1:10 PM
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lostlazy wrote: climboard wrote: You do realize that the Nose wouldn't be a free climb without the numerous man-made holds on it, don't you? So if an essential handhold (man-made or not) was to break on the Nose, or otherwise go missing somehow, who is ultimately responsible for "repairing" the route ?
God.
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 13, 2009, 1:46 PM
Post #27 of 53
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rockforlife wrote: dlintz wrote: rockforlife wrote: mr.tastycakes wrote: A big ole hold has broken off the dreamtime boulder... http://www.b3bouldering.com/...reamtime-has-broken/ i'm bored, so i figured i'd start a thread that might ruffle some feathers around here. At my shitty local bouldering area (central park, nyc) I know exactly what would happen if a key, or even not so key, hold broke: within a couple days that sucker would be epoxy'd back onto the rock. So, to glue or not to glue? fixed And no, if a hold breaks off of the nose are people going to run back up there and epoxy it back on? 20+ move boulder problem = 30+ pitch route? Try again. d. No, Its does not matter, one of the best things about climbing is its not man made. Yes in this case we did break it, but so what, who's to say that one day it would not have come off on its own? then should we still glue it back on? The rock is ALWAYS changing some things get harder and some easier. we just have to deal with what happens. If we really continue to glue holds back on to routes, then what do you have. An out door gym? Maybe not, but not far from it, Edit: and what if a key hold on a free pitch came off?
So, are you saying you you have never climbed a route that has been glued? I bet you have. it happens a lot more than people realize.
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macblaze
Nov 13, 2009, 2:40 PM
Post #28 of 53
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johnwesely wrote: lostlazy wrote: climboard wrote: You do realize that the Nose wouldn't be a free climb without the numerous man-made holds on it, don't you? So if an essential handhold (man-made or not) was to break on the Nose, or otherwise go missing somehow, who is ultimately responsible for "repairing" the route ? God.
Oh. I thought it was for the rangers and yogi bear to deal with. Or does he only do geyser repair? Lazy frickin' bears...
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johnwesely
Nov 13, 2009, 3:13 PM
Post #29 of 53
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macblaze wrote: johnwesely wrote: lostlazy wrote: climboard wrote: You do realize that the Nose wouldn't be a free climb without the numerous man-made holds on it, don't you? So if an essential handhold (man-made or not) was to break on the Nose, or otherwise go missing somehow, who is ultimately responsible for "repairing" the route ? God. Oh. I thought it was for the rangers and yogi bear to deal with. Or does he only do geyser repair? Lazy frickin' bears...
The rangers and Yogi bear are simply God's agents. I should have said that God "caused to have the route repaired".
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climboard
Nov 13, 2009, 3:16 PM
Post #30 of 53
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johnwesely wrote: lostlazy wrote: climboard wrote: You do realize that the Nose wouldn't be a free climb without the numerous man-made holds on it, don't you? So if an essential handhold (man-made or not) was to break on the Nose, or otherwise go missing somehow, who is ultimately responsible for "repairing" the route ? God.
Yes, as the reigning God of El Cap free climbing, Tommy Caldwell is responsible for hold maintenance.
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lostlazy
Nov 13, 2009, 3:36 PM
Post #31 of 53
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climboard wrote: johnwesely wrote: lostlazy wrote: climboard wrote: You do realize that the Nose wouldn't be a free climb without the numerous man-made holds on it, don't you? So if an essential handhold (man-made or not) was to break on the Nose, or otherwise go missing somehow, who is ultimately responsible for "repairing" the route ? God. Yes, as the reigning God of El Cap free climbing, Tommy Caldwell is responsible for hold maintenance.
Makes Sense. I trust his Providence then will keep the line up the Nose nice and clean, at least until I'm ready to tackle it
And not to seem like a hijacker, in the OP's case, since the FA's are still around IMHO it is up to them.
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notapplicable
Nov 14, 2009, 1:14 AM
Post #32 of 53
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fist wrote: notapplicable wrote: Since i don't like bouldering I'm gonna make fun of anyone who does, because my opinion matters
I support this statement.
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Lazlo
Nov 14, 2009, 1:54 AM
Post #33 of 53
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johnwesely wrote: notapplicable wrote: The real question is how do you justify the cost of the glue it would take to put the hold back on? I mean, this is bouldering we're talking about right. Wouldn't those pennies be better spent on...oh I don't know...a Tootsie Roll or something? Beanies aren't cheap either. Most boulderers have to save to their lunch money for weeks, less common, or sell their shirt, much more common, to afford one.
Alez Homar.
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Lazlo
Nov 14, 2009, 1:59 AM
Post #34 of 53
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notapplicable wrote: fist wrote: notapplicable wrote: Since i don't like bouldering I'm gonna make fun of anyone who does, because my opinion matters I support this statement.
I knew you would.
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subantz
Nov 14, 2009, 2:20 AM
Post #35 of 53
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Bouldering is the future of climbing!!! It is so pure just the rock and you a crash pad and chalk.
Soon all the trad tards will be dead and leave the world to be Bolted for the liking. HAHAHAHA. Just a few more years and we will take over the world. Most of the trad nuts are already in a nursing home and wearing diapers. Looking through the forums and drooling on their keyboard. What I said It.!!!!!!!!!!!
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notapplicable
Nov 14, 2009, 2:47 AM
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Lazlo wrote: notapplicable wrote: fist wrote: notapplicable wrote: Since i don't like bouldering I'm gonna make fun of anyone who does, because my opinion matters I support this statement. I knew you would.
It is what we do here.
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notapplicable
Nov 14, 2009, 2:53 AM
Post #37 of 53
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subantz wrote: Bouldering is the future of climbing!!! It is so pure just the rock and you a crash pad and chalk. Soon all the trad tards will be dead and leave the world to be Bolted for the liking. HAHAHAHA. Just a few more years and we will take over the world. Most of the trad nuts are already in a nursing home and wearing diapers. Looking through the forums and drooling on their keyboard. What I said It.!!!!!!!!!!!
Shitz Depends in RAGE!!
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Lazlo
Nov 14, 2009, 3:21 AM
Post #38 of 53
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subantz wrote: Bouldering is the future of climbing!!! It is so pure just the rock and you a crash pad and chalk. Soon all the trad tards will be dead and leave the world to be Bolted for the liking. HAHAHAHA. Just a few more years and we will take over the world. Most of the trad nuts are already in a nursing home and wearing diapers. Looking through the forums and drooling on their keyboard. What I said It.!!!!!!!!!!!
Trad is Rad.
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subantz
Nov 14, 2009, 1:48 PM
Post #39 of 53
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Shut your face!!!!
Trad is Old school
Sport Climbing is cool
Bouldering is the future you fool!
WHAT
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yanqui
Nov 14, 2009, 3:22 PM
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subantz wrote: Shut your face!!!! Trad is Old school Sport Climbing is cool Bouldering is the future you fool! WHAT
Actually, someone could probably make the case that bouldering is every bit as traditional as "trad" climbing. Both activities probably go back close to the origins of modern climbing, when members of the European bourgeoisie began to pursue alpinism as an activity to make their lives more interesting. I suppose both sorts of activities were at first "justified" as a kind of training for "real" climbing (which at the time meant mountain climbing) and latter began to develop into more separate disciplines.
John Gill has a nice website documenting the history of bouldering. I don't know any comparable site that documents the history of what now-a-days gets called "trad-climbing" (e.g. in the sense that a one pitch climb in Virginia could be called "traditional"). My advice is: go learn your tribal history. Maybe then you'll have something interesting to say on the subject.
As far as the original post goes: personally I could care less whether they glue a hold back on Dreamtime or not. Makes absolutely no difference to me.
(This post was edited by yanqui on Nov 14, 2009, 3:24 PM)
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joeforte
Nov 16, 2009, 4:13 AM
Post #41 of 53
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climboard wrote: You do realize that the Nose wouldn't be a free climb without the numerous man-made holds on it, don't you?
A good point, but I think it would be freed eventually regardless.
(This post was edited by joeforte on Nov 16, 2009, 4:15 AM)
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subantz
Nov 16, 2009, 4:38 AM
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yanqui wrote: subantz wrote: Shut your face!!!! Trad is Old school Sport Climbing is cool Bouldering is the future you fool! WHAT Actually, someone is probably make the case that bouldering is every bit as traditional as "trad" climbing. Bouldering is the origin of modern climbing As far as the original post goes: personally I could care less whether they glue a hold back on Dreamtime or not. Makes absolutely no difference to me.
Let me say it to you again
SHUT YOUR FACE or Plug you PNAS eater
By the way I fixed your post for ya
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subantz
Nov 16, 2009, 9:35 PM
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My sides are hurting so bad. I think my abs will be sore tomorrow from laughing so hard! Nice you sir are the winner!
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jt512
Nov 16, 2009, 11:57 PM
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notapplicable wrote: The real question is how do you justify the cost of the glue it would take to put the hold back on? I mean, this is bouldering we're talking about right. Wouldn't those pennies be better spent on...
...a stick clip.
Jay
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srrk
Nov 24, 2009, 7:21 PM
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Depends on the problem. Funny you say they would re-glue in Central Park. A key crimp on the nose of the Rat Rock traverse broke off and consensus was to leave it - it made it better. This was in the early 80s. I know because I accidentally broke it.
I was in Cresciano for the Landman brothers crushing of Dreamtime and I think you really need your left hand to stay on when you hit the dyno. It's better with the incut hold (both for the sit and stand) - glue it.
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hafilax
Nov 25, 2009, 12:36 AM
Post #48 of 53
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What if it got chipped when it fell off?
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notapplicable
Nov 26, 2009, 12:28 AM
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jt512 wrote: notapplicable wrote: The real question is how do you justify the cost of the glue it would take to put the hold back on? I mean, this is bouldering we're talking about right. Wouldn't those pennies be better spent on... ...a stick clip. Jay
Interestingly enough, this is correct.
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yokese
Dec 25, 2009, 9:16 PM
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mleogrande wrote: I just looked at Sharma on YouTube climbing Dreamtime so I could see the moves using this hold that broke off. This hold looks super important. Looks like he graps it at 1:14 in the video clip. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yoYjuLWggto
It's been done by Adam Ondra without that hold. Same grade: 8b+
http://climbingnarc.com/...s-v14-in-switzerland
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