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airscape
Nov 19, 2009, 2:16 PM
Post #76 of 106
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I think kids can probably handle a 14' fall onto a pad much better that an adult ever could.
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JasonsDrivingForce
Nov 19, 2009, 2:27 PM
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airscape wrote: I think kids can probably handle a 14' fall onto a pad much better that an adult ever could.
You have to remember that a 4 foot tall child’s feet are at about 10’ off the ground on that green route. At 6’4” my feet would be at less than 8 feet on that same route. Falling those extra 2+ feet makes a big difference in terms of velocity when you hit the pad or gravel in the case of that gym.
What height do most gyms usually allow bouldering to? I think our gym limits it to 12 feet.
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camhead
Nov 19, 2009, 2:31 PM
Post #78 of 106
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Heh, I just reviewed this thread after not looking at it for a while.
pfwhine is a fucking idiot. Even the most "well-stacked" pads outside are usually a different game than foam floors with pads on top of them at places like the Spot.
And while we're on the subject, I'm going to rant about highball bouldering in gyms. I've not climbed at the Spot, but I have climbed at a gym a friend opened that has VERY high bouldering topouts (I don't know the exact heights, but he was pretty proud of them and bragged that they were even higher than the Spot.). It was not that fun; one wall didn't even top out, so you had to actually drop off the finishing jugs after you had sent. Even with the best pads, trust me, you start feeling it in your ankles and knees after a few weeks of that. Out of control falls from the top were very likely to cause injury.
Gyms are supposed to be about training and getting stronger. To artificially impose risk with "highballs" in that environment is the same as rap-bolting an intentionally r/x route. I can totally understand going for the "glory" or whatever of a highball outside, and I do so occasionally, but who he hell needs to stroke their ego by risking an ankle-breaker on plastic?
Have fun with your indoor highball Spot tickist, though, pfwein. And stay in Boulderado, too.
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yanqui
Nov 19, 2009, 2:33 PM
Post #79 of 106
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My home climbing gym is probably about this high. I also have a VERY safe pad arrangement at the bottom. However, my seven year old daughter still hasn't gone for the top out holds. I think it would be safe, but she always wants to bale about the time her feet get above my outstretched hands (and I see no reason to push her further). I should also mention that the arrangement of the holds on my wall makes the climbing pretty difficult for a seven year old (thanks to my twenty-something climber friends who are always removing any jugs placed in the middle of the wall).
However, I think if there were other kids close to her ability pushing to go for the top, then she would be motivated to give it a go (with her naturally competitive nature) . At any rate, with a good pad arrangement and a spot, I suppose this is a safe height for kids.
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jaablink
Nov 19, 2009, 2:49 PM
Post #80 of 106
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You guys are still bitching about this?
Safe is relative...
You can fall 2 feet like Curts friend and get really fucked up. You can be Lynn Hill fall over 70 feet, dislocate your elbow and get a little scratched up.
Last week burning a few laps at the North End, I watched some guys get on Jack the Ripper. The first pitch is 5.12a at 35 feet ,and the first pro is a bolt at 20 feet guarded by 5.10 moves and a delicate mantle. The leader blew the clip twice and fell to the sloping ground from at least 15 feet, thats calculating in the slope of the hill.
No crash pad… he kept going and finally got the clip. He did not get hurt…. Others have gotten hurt on the same climb, falling from a much shorter distance.
As for the hight of a home ,it is hard to tell from a flat photo… my cabin was built in the early 60s ,rough milled . Basement , first floor, and second floor loft, measures 38 feet to the peek . According to some of you , a 2 story home is only 20 25 feet …. I am going to have to track down the builders and tell them the structure cant stand because it is too tall for being only 2 stories high.
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dynosore
Nov 19, 2009, 2:53 PM
Post #81 of 106
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Well, the results turned out about like I expected. Plenty of people falling from 15-20 feet and walking away if they're careful, and people claiming taking regular 40 footers are full of it.
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JasonsDrivingForce
Nov 19, 2009, 2:57 PM
Post #82 of 106
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yanqui wrote: My home climbing gym is probably about this high. I also have a VERY safe pad arrangement at the bottom.
That sounds like a really cool "Home" gym.
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dynosore
Nov 19, 2009, 3:04 PM
Post #83 of 106
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http://www.lowes.com/...66934&lpage=none
Totally irrelevant but since I started the thread I'll hijack it one more time. The studs they sell around here are 92/5-8", I'm not going crazy. Maybe.
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dynosore
Nov 19, 2009, 3:08 PM
Post #84 of 106
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Does anyone else have lightning bolt like pain shoot through their ankles when they fall from more than a few feet? I had a 16' bouldering wall in my backyard, and a monster stack of foam. Even with that it hurt enough that I put up a top rope for problems than had a crux near the top, it just hurt too much to fall. Course, I'm in my mid 30's and I've ran my whole life, so my ankles aren't the best. Old age? Overuse? Wuss? All of the above?
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byran
Nov 19, 2009, 3:12 PM
Post #85 of 106
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JasonsDrivingForce wrote: airscape wrote: I think kids can probably handle a 14' fall onto a pad much better that an adult ever could. You have to remember that a 4 foot tall child’s feet are at about 10’ off the ground on that green route. At 6’4” my feet would be at less than 8 feet on that same route. Falling those extra 2+ feet makes a big difference in terms of velocity when you hit the pad or gravel in the case of that gym. What height do most gyms usually allow bouldering to? I think our gym limits it to 12 feet.
Someone posted this article over on Mountain Project
http://journals.lww.com/...15&type=fulltext
Basically it says that in urban falls (ie: onto concrete), adults have a 50/50 chance of surviving/dying when falling between 3-5 stories, but children have the same odds when falling between 5-6 stories.
So kids are actually a lot less likely to get hurt in a fall than adults. Maybe it's because they have less mass and therefore a lesser impact force on their internal organs. Or maybe it's just some evolutionary cause, because kids are always falling off shit. Climbers aside, once you become an adult you tend to stop falling out of trees, off fences, over balconies, ect... so maybe our bodies lose some of that resilience to hard impacts.
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jaablink
Nov 19, 2009, 3:24 PM
Post #86 of 106
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There about 8 feet. What is your point?
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yanqui
Nov 19, 2009, 4:52 PM
Post #87 of 106
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JasonsDrivingForce wrote: yanqui wrote: My home climbing gym is probably about this high. I also have a VERY safe pad arrangement at the bottom. That sounds like a really cool "Home" gym.
I guess ... we built an addition to the house about the size of a two car garage for the gym. The tall wall is just over 4 meters high. The idea was to make a big roof too , coming out from the other side, but I seem to be getting lazy in my old age. I basically only use the damn thing when it rains, because I prefer to be outside. Maybe I'll use it tonight, though.
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JasonsDrivingForce
Nov 19, 2009, 5:42 PM
Post #88 of 106
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yanqui wrote: JasonsDrivingForce wrote: yanqui wrote: My home climbing gym is probably about this high. I also have a VERY safe pad arrangement at the bottom. That sounds like a really cool "Home" gym. I guess ... we built an addition to the house about the size of a two car garage for the gym. The tall wall is just over 4 meters high. The idea was to make a big roof too , coming out from the other side, but I seem to be getting lazy in my old age. I basically only use the damn thing when it rains, because I prefer to be outside. Maybe I'll use it tonight, though.
Sounds impressive to me. I would love to convince my wife to let me put a "Bouldering extension" on the house.
Got any pics or vids of it?
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yanqui
Nov 19, 2009, 6:30 PM
Post #89 of 106
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JasonsDrivingForce wrote: yanqui wrote: JasonsDrivingForce wrote: yanqui wrote: My home climbing gym is probably about this high. I also have a VERY safe pad arrangement at the bottom. That sounds like a really cool "Home" gym. I guess ... we built an addition to the house about the size of a two car garage for the gym. The tall wall is just over 4 meters high. The idea was to make a big roof too , coming out from the other side, but I seem to be getting lazy in my old age. I basically only use the damn thing when it rains, because I prefer to be outside. Maybe I'll use it tonight, though. Sounds impressive to me. I would love to convince my wife to let me put a "Bouldering extension" on the house. Got any pics or vids of it?
I'll take some and post them within the next few days ... especially since I know how much the guys around here love home gym photos!
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dynosore
Nov 19, 2009, 6:48 PM
Post #90 of 106
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jaablink wrote: There about 8 feet. What is your point?
Evidently my point was to draw out the poor grammar crowd. Success!!
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pfwein
Nov 19, 2009, 6:48 PM
Post #91 of 106
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camhead wrote: Heh, I just reviewed this thread after not looking at it for a while. pfwhine is a fucking idiot. Even the most "well-stacked" pads outside are usually a different game than foam floors with pads on top of them at places like the Spot. And while we're on the subject, I'm going to rant about highball bouldering in gyms. I've not climbed at the Spot, but I have climbed at a gym a friend opened that has VERY high bouldering topouts (I don't know the exact heights, but he was pretty proud of them and bragged that they were even higher than the Spot.). It was not that fun; one wall didn't even top out, so you had to actually drop off the finishing jugs after you had sent. Even with the best pads, trust me, you start feeling it in your ankles and knees after a few weeks of that. Out of control falls from the top were very likely to cause injury. Gyms are supposed to be about training and getting stronger. To artificially impose risk with "highballs" in that environment is the same as rap-bolting an intentionally r/x route. I can totally understand going for the "glory" or whatever of a highball outside, and I do so occasionally, but who he hell needs to stroke their ego by risking an ankle-breaker on plastic? Have fun with your indoor highball Spot tickist, though, pfwein. And stay in Boulderado, too.
Comparing The Spot to r/x routes: thought I'd heard it all. I guess the legions of young children, intrepid CU students just starting out, regular climbers, pro climbers, and a few distinguished older ladies and gentlemen don't see it that way and somehow seem to make it up the top of the boulders at The Spot (or not) without catastrophic injury.
Everyone is responsible for his/her own safety (young children may be an exception).
Camhead, if the highest climbs at The Spot are too high for your liking, just stay on the shorter walls or traverses: problem solved. When you get a bit more experience, you may choose to go a bit higher (like the aforementioned young children, CU newbs, and old geezers at The Spot), or you may choose to be a lifelong lowballer--it's all good. But if you're ego is so fragile as it appears to be from your posts, you probably would not enjoy climbing in Boulder, so the above is mostly hypothetical.
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dynosore
Nov 19, 2009, 6:50 PM
Post #92 of 106
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JasonsDrivingForce wrote: yanqui wrote: JasonsDrivingForce wrote: yanqui wrote: My home climbing gym is probably about this high. I also have a VERY safe pad arrangement at the bottom. That sounds like a really cool "Home" gym. I guess ... we built an addition to the house about the size of a two car garage for the gym. The tall wall is just over 4 meters high. The idea was to make a big roof too , coming out from the other side, but I seem to be getting lazy in my old age. I basically only use the damn thing when it rains, because I prefer to be outside. Maybe I'll use it tonight, though. Sounds impressive to me. I would love to convince my wife to let me put a "Bouldering extension" on the house. Got any pics or vids of it?
Next house I build will have one end that is walled off and goes from basement to 2nd floor peak. Should be able to get close to 30" of height with 9' poured walls and 4/12 pitch.
(This post was edited by dynosore on Nov 19, 2009, 6:51 PM)
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jaablink
Nov 19, 2009, 7:03 PM
Post #93 of 106
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dynosore wrote: jaablink wrote: There about 8 feet. What is your point? Evidently my point was to draw out the poor grammar crowd. Success!!
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yanqui
Nov 19, 2009, 7:07 PM
Post #94 of 106
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pfwein wrote: camhead wrote: Heh, I just reviewed this thread after not looking at it for a while. pfwhine is a fucking idiot. Even the most "well-stacked" pads outside are usually a different game than foam floors with pads on top of them at places like the Spot. And while we're on the subject, I'm going to rant about highball bouldering in gyms. I've not climbed at the Spot, but I have climbed at a gym a friend opened that has VERY high bouldering topouts (I don't know the exact heights, but he was pretty proud of them and bragged that they were even higher than the Spot.). It was not that fun; one wall didn't even top out, so you had to actually drop off the finishing jugs after you had sent. Even with the best pads, trust me, you start feeling it in your ankles and knees after a few weeks of that. Out of control falls from the top were very likely to cause injury. Gyms are supposed to be about training and getting stronger. To artificially impose risk with "highballs" in that environment is the same as rap-bolting an intentionally r/x route. I can totally understand going for the "glory" or whatever of a highball outside, and I do so occasionally, but who he hell needs to stroke their ego by risking an ankle-breaker on plastic? Have fun with your indoor highball Spot tickist, though, pfwein. And stay in Boulderado, too. Comparing The Spot to r/x routes: thought I'd heard it all. I guess the legions of young children, intrepid CU students just starting out, regular climbers, pro climbers, and a few distinguished older ladies and gentlemen don't see it that way and somehow seem to make it up the top of the boulders at The Spot (or not) without catastrophic injury. Everyone is responsible for his/her own safety (young children may be an exception). Camhead, if the highest climbs at The Spot are too high for your liking, just stay on the shorter walls or traverses: problem solved. When you get a bit more experience, you may choose to go a bit higher (like the aforementioned young children, CU newbs, and old geezers at The Spot), or you may choose to be a lifelong lowballer--it's all good. But if you're ego is so fragile as it appears to be from your posts, you probably would not enjoy climbing in Boulder, so the above is mostly hypothetical.
Dude, this thread has officially been hijacked. It's now about the height of walls in home climbing gyms. Check back latter for pictures.
Meanwhile go troll camhead in some other thread. Nobody here but you is the slightest bit interested in the fact that you and granny climbed "rad" 18 footers at the Spot.
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jaablink
Nov 19, 2009, 7:09 PM
Post #95 of 106
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dynosore wrote: JasonsDrivingForce wrote: yanqui wrote: JasonsDrivingForce wrote: yanqui wrote: My home climbing gym is probably about this high. I also have a VERY safe pad arrangement at the bottom. That sounds like a really cool "Home" gym. I guess ... we built an addition to the house about the size of a two car garage for the gym. The tall wall is just over 4 meters high. The idea was to make a big roof too , coming out from the other side, but I seem to be getting lazy in my old age. I basically only use the damn thing when it rains, because I prefer to be outside. Maybe I'll use it tonight, though. Sounds impressive to me. I would love to convince my wife to let me put a "Bouldering extension" on the house. Got any pics or vids of it? Next house I build will have one end that is walled off and goes from basement to 2nd floor peak. Should be able to get close to 30" of height with 9' poured walls and 4/12 pitch.
Again---this means inches(") and this means feet (')
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kriso9tails
Nov 19, 2009, 7:16 PM
Post #96 of 106
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yanqui wrote: Meanwhile go troll camhead in some other thread. Nobody here but you is the slightest bit interested in the fact that you and granny climbed "rad" 18 footers at the Spot.
Yeah, who really cares how big it is? My girlfriend's always telling me that size doesn't matter. Not sure why she always uses the 'Sweety, your goldfish have gone to a better place' tone of voice when she says it though.
Anyway, the point I'm trying to make is, I really miss my goldfish.
(This post was edited by kriso9tails on Nov 19, 2009, 9:17 PM)
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dugl33
Nov 19, 2009, 7:27 PM
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dynosore wrote: http://www.lowes.com/...66934&lpage=none Totally irrelevant but since I started the thread I'll hijack it one more time. The studs they sell around here are 92/5-8", I'm not going crazy. Maybe.
You're not crazy, although I promise you that 92-1/4" was a standard 8' stud length for years. Adding a single bottom plate and 2 top plates left you with a rough frame ceiling height of 96-3/4", which left room for 5/8" drywall on the lid, and two horizontal 4' wide sheets of drywall, leaving 1/8" of play at the bottom.
1/8" isn't much though; foundations aren't perfect, wood shrinks, and drywallers are efficient but sloppy by nature.
The standard has probably changed to give a little more play, or maybe lowe's and home depot realize the skill level of the average homeowner that shops there.
**********
end of threadjack 
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jaablink
Nov 19, 2009, 7:49 PM
Post #98 of 106
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You are going to confuse the boy... Where did the extra 1.5(") inchs come from? you forgot to tell him that a 2x4 is really 1.5x3.5 nowadays. why? why? why? this is so confusing.....
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ClimbSoHigh
Nov 19, 2009, 8:35 PM
Post #99 of 106
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It depends on how you fall, here is a link to a youtube video where a guy back flips onto only dirt from at least 35 feet from by the way you are measuring it. NO PAD! These guys are crazy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIgPMkGJ2v4
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jaablink
Nov 19, 2009, 8:41 PM
Post #100 of 106
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ClimbSoHigh wrote: It depends on how you fall, here is a link to a youtube video where a guy back flips onto only dirt from at least 35 feet from by the way you are measuring it. NO PAD! These guys are crazy! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIgPMkGJ2v4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIgPMkGJ2v4
fixed
(This post was edited by jaablink on Nov 19, 2009, 8:43 PM)
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