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USnavy
Nov 19, 2009, 5:03 AM
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So it seems Infinite Bliss (IV+ 5.10b) and Timewave Zero (IV+ 5.12a) ranks in as the longest and second longest sport route in North America. But what route takes the cake for the tallest sport route in the world?
(This post was edited by USnavy on Nov 19, 2009, 5:04 AM)
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healyje
Nov 19, 2009, 5:08 AM
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Given the circumstances it went in under it should have been called Ignorant Bliss.
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kylekienitz
Nov 19, 2009, 5:55 AM
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USnavy wrote: So it seems Infinite Bliss (IV+ 5.10b) and Timewave Zero (IV+ 5.12a) ranks in as the longest and second longest sport route in North America. But what route takes the cake for the tallest sport route in the world?
How many pitches are those climbs?
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USnavy
Nov 19, 2009, 6:06 AM
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kylekienitz wrote: USnavy wrote: So it seems Infinite Bliss (IV+ 5.10b) and Timewave Zero (IV+ 5.12a) ranks in as the longest and second longest sport route in North America. But what route takes the cake for the tallest sport route in the world? How many pitches are those climbs?
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healyje
Nov 19, 2009, 6:07 AM
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More intelligence went into that line than into the entire IB route.
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squierbypetzl
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Nov 19, 2009, 6:08 AM
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Saw your note on TWZ. How´d Potrero treat you, sailor?
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USnavy
Nov 19, 2009, 6:22 AM
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healyje wrote: More intelligence went into that line than into the entire IB route.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Nov 19, 2009, 6:23 AM)
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USnavy
Nov 19, 2009, 6:24 AM
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squierbypetzl wrote: Saw your note on TWZ. How´d Potrero treat you, sailor?
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healyje
Nov 19, 2009, 9:43 AM
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El Potrero is not the North Cascades - TWZ is appropriate in the former, IB is not in the latter. It basically stands as a monument to climbers not being able to police themselves as far as I'm concerned. Go to cascadeclimbers.com for endless debate on IB.
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rockandlice
Nov 19, 2009, 5:16 PM
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USnavy wrote: I was told it’s actually a reasonable line if you like your sport run out.
So what exactly is the definition of "run out" here?
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justroberto
Nov 19, 2009, 5:45 PM
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rockandlice wrote: USnavy wrote: I was told it’s actually a reasonable line if you like your sport run out. So what exactly is the definition of "run out" here?
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irregularpanda
Nov 19, 2009, 6:02 PM
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justroberto wrote: rockandlice wrote: USnavy wrote: I was told it’s actually a reasonable line if you like your sport run out. So what exactly is the definition of "run out" here? Heh. Kinda like Stoner Mt. If the guidebook says 2 bolts on a higher pitch, don't be surprised if they're both at the anchor...
And yet the FA was done without bolts from what I've heard.
Fred Beckey I believe. Did you guys know that he pisses Red Bull? Fact.
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dagibbs
Nov 19, 2009, 10:02 PM
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USnavy wrote: squierbypetzl wrote: Saw your note on TWZ. How´d Potrero treat you, sailor? Good. I plan to go back again in March. My only regret is that I didn’t climb every day I was down there. I could have done it but with a rental car it was easy to be lazy and go into town.
I'm hoping to get back to EPC in March, myself. Well, if I can organise the flights & people to climb with. I loved my time there last winter.
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kylekienitz
Nov 20, 2009, 12:01 AM
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healyje wrote: Given the circumstances it went in under it should have been called Ignorant Bliss.
I have never heard anything about this debate. I went to the website but felt wanting for a summary. Can you describe the issue in 50 words?
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yanqui
Nov 20, 2009, 12:38 AM
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healyje wrote: Given the circumstances it went in under it should have been called Ignorant Bliss.
Im assuming you've actually done the route, so you can make a first hand critique. I'd like to hear it.
(This post was edited by yanqui on Nov 20, 2009, 12:41 AM)
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healyje
Nov 20, 2009, 1:06 AM
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50? More like 2 words - ignorant bolting. Not much more is required for bolting a line like this in the North Cascades. A real classic...
p1 - 5.6 / 120' / 2 bolts
p2 - 5.4 / 110' / 4 bolts
p3 - 5.4 / 100' / 2 bolts
p4 - 5.6 / 100' / 9 bolts
p5 - 5.5 / 110' / 9 bolts
p6 - 5.7 / 160' / 5 bolts
p7 - 5.6 / 190' / 7 bolts (walk)
p8 - 5.5 / 200' / 3 bolts
p9 - 5.9 / 160' / 10 bolts
p10 - 5.8 / 100' / 7 bolts
p11 - 10b / 90' / 9 bolts (walk)
p12 - 5.8 / 110' / 6 bolts
p13 - 5.2 / 130' / 1 bolts
p14 - 5.7 / 160' / 10 bolts
p15 - 5.2 / 160' / 2 bolts
p16 - 5.0 / 80' / 0 bolts
p17 - 5.0 / 140' / 0 bolts
p18 - 5.8 / 110' / 8 bolts
p19 - 10c / 130' / 17 bolts
p20 - 5.7 / 60' / 2 bolts
p21 - 10a / 180' / 15 bolts
p22 - 5.8 / 160' / 11 bolts
p23 - 5.9 / 90' / 14 bolts
Oh, and it's a bit of a bowling alley for loose rocks...
(This post was edited by healyje on Nov 20, 2009, 3:08 AM)
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healyje
Nov 20, 2009, 1:08 AM
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yanqui wrote: Im assuming you've actually done the route, so you can make a first hand critique. I'd like to hear it.
Absolutely not - wouldn't give it the friggin' time of day.
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graniteboy
Nov 20, 2009, 1:34 AM
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I'm trying to remember...How many pitches/how long is the "Great Canadian Knife" up in the Cirque O the unclimbables?
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guangzhou
Nov 20, 2009, 2:26 AM
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I would guess the longest sport route would be somewhere in Europe. Maybe the Switzerland area.
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retro67
Nov 20, 2009, 2:41 AM
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I don't know the area. Are you saying that the route could have been protected naturally? Infinite Bliss, I mean.
(This post was edited by retro67 on Nov 20, 2009, 2:44 AM)
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healyje
Nov 20, 2009, 3:08 AM
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retro67 wrote: I don't know the area. Are you saying that the route could have been protected naturally? Infinite Bliss, I mean.
That is really irrelevant.
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mojomonkey
Nov 20, 2009, 3:24 AM
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kylekienitz wrote: healyje wrote: Given the circumstances it went in under it should have been called Ignorant Bliss. I have never heard anything about this debate. I went to the website but felt wanting for a summary. Can you describe the issue in 50 words?
I'm definitely outside on this one, but have seen it pop up on numerous forums, particularly Cascade Climbers. There are lots of threads, with the main issues being that it was rap bolted, it is (possibly?) inside a wilderness area where motorized drilling was prohibited, is generally not keeping with the established style, and that an unauthorized trail was established to get to it. This thread on on supertopo, on whether or not supertopo should include the Infinite Bliss topo, seems to cover it.
The best thing about USNavy is that he doesn't even know he is a troll...
(This post was edited by mojomonkey on Nov 20, 2009, 5:31 PM)
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moose_droppings
Nov 20, 2009, 3:53 AM
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Give me a PM if you ever get an actual answer to your original question. Just for the heck of it I'd like to know too.
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USnavy
Nov 20, 2009, 4:36 AM
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mojomonkey wrote: kylekienitz wrote: healyje wrote: Given the circumstances it went in under it should have been called Ignorant Bliss. I have never heard anything about this debate. I went to the website but felt wanting for a summary. Can you describe the issue in 50 words? I'm definitely outside on this one, but have seen it pop up on numerous forums, particularly Cascade Climbers. There are lots of threads, with the main issues being that it was rap bolted, it is (possibly?) and generally not keeping with the established style, inside a wilderness area where motorized drilling was prohibited, and that an unauthorized trail was established to get to it. This thread on on supertopo, on whether or not supertopo should include the Infinite Bliss topo, seems to cover it. The best thing about USNavy is that he doesn't even know he is a troll...
Girls didn’t talk to you much in high school did they? That’s okay, The 40 Year Old Virgin wouldn’t be the classic it is if it wasn’t for the fact that it’s a true story for some...
(This post was edited by USnavy on Nov 20, 2009, 4:38 AM)
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