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Fingerboard workouts for Periodization
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zakadamsgt


Nov 18, 2009, 9:46 PM
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Fingerboard workouts for Periodization
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I'm starting my first week of my periodization training, and am starting with the HYP phase so I'm using a hangboard. I'm trying to squeeze two Hangboard workouts in a week (M/W or Thur).

Question: Should I be doing the same hangboard workout for the 2 sessions? I have 1 workout that is focusing more on longer hangs and power endurance and I have another repeater workout. What is your experience with the hangboard section of periodization? I would like to do both for variation. What do you think?

Thanks!

Z


mandryd


Nov 25, 2009, 4:48 AM
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Re: [zakadamsgt] Fingerboard workouts for Periodization [In reply to]
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look here:
http://beastmaker.co.uk/training%20page2.htm

doing repeaters will improve your grip strength. however doing encores will give you some major improvements in strength and grip and get you used to doing static hangs.
really work the different grips like they say. front 2, middle 2, back 2 pocket draining. front 3 and back 3, etc.

i have been doing these training routes for like 5 months and the gains have been dramatic.


sungam


Nov 25, 2009, 10:02 AM
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mandryd wrote:
look here:
http://beastmaker.co.uk/training%20page2.htm

doing repeaters will improve your grip strength. however doing encores will give you some major improvements in strength and grip and get you used to doing static hangs.
really work the different grips like they say. front 2, middle 2, back 2 pocket draining. front 3 and back 3, etc.

i have been doing these training routes for like 5 months and the gains have been dramatic.
Made clicky. And to add - beastmakers are likely the beast boards out there. We have 5 boards in my apartment, and it's made all but one of the others redundant.


mandryd


Nov 25, 2009, 11:54 AM
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agreed. the beastmaker is an amazing hangboard, the best i've ever used.


the only thing it's missing is good crimps to train on, so i added 1/2" 3/8" and 1/4" (minus a little to round off the lip) crimps out to the side for even more burly training.
also a 3/4" and 1" slightly rounded incut crimp is good for training 1 arm crimp hangs.

the 1/2 is easily doable at first, but the 1/4" is just sick. if i can do a set of repeaters on that, that would be amazing.


sidepull


Nov 25, 2009, 2:17 PM
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Re: [zakadamsgt] Fingerboard workouts for Periodization [In reply to]
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Read this:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ockprodigy__258.html

Good luck! Don't get injured.


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