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onrockandice
Dec 7, 2009, 6:42 PM
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How would you size the Miura on your foot? I'm picking up a pair today and thought I'd ask those of you that wear them how you sized them and what you think now of the choice you made?
Should I jam the toes in hard and roll them up tight? So that as soon as I'm done climbing I want them off?
Should I get them tight but comfy maybe a little pain at first? Where-as I can pull a pitch or two before the dogs are screaming?
Should I get them snug where the toes are bent up a little but not painfully where I could go 30 minutes or so before I have to yank them?
--edit to add the below--
Been climbing for a year in the mythos and love it. It's amazing in nearly everything. I wear a 43 which I can leave on for an hour. The problem is that I cannot edge, backstep, pocket very well at all. An incredible shoe though. I put on a 43 in the Miura and had to jam my feet in hard. I was thinking of getting a 43 in the Miura but don't know if they stretch or not.
(This post was edited by onrockandice on Dec 7, 2009, 6:45 PM)
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currupt4130
Dec 7, 2009, 6:45 PM
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Mine are snug but not too painful to hang out in for 30 minutes. I wear a size 12.5-13 street shoe and a 45 (11.5) in Miuras.
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scotty1974
Dec 7, 2009, 6:52 PM
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I sized down 1 full size to a 43 and have been pretty happy with them...I could've probaby sized down 1/2 size more, but I found a full size works pretty well.
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seatbeltpants
Dec 7, 2009, 7:22 PM
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my miuras stretched a fair bit - more than i was expecting. i don't wear my shoes super tight though, got a good, snug fit along the length and the stretching just gave more room which tighter laces takes care of.
jam your toes in hard if that floats your boat, but i can tell you one thing i've noticed among the climbers i know - the gumbies wear floppy canoes on their feet, the semi experienced guys think that tight shoes will help so are all crippled (i've been tehre, didn't help), but the guys who are actually good all wear their shoes so they're snug, but not painful.
and i'm totally over people saying that you should size your climbing shoes two sizes down from your street shoes. do you people only ever buy one brand of shoes, because in my experience my "street shoe" size in merrell, 5.10, la sportiva, and teva is anything between a 9.5 and an 11. in climbing shoes i'm in an even wider range. hell, within a single brand i can be a few sizes different depending on model.
steve
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caughtinside
Dec 7, 2009, 7:27 PM
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onrockandice wrote: The problem is that I cannot edge, backstep, pocket very well at all.
Yep, that sounds like the mythos.
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currupt4130
Dec 7, 2009, 7:57 PM
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Reply to your edit, my Miuras stretched a little bit after a good month of climbing in them. About two years ago I had a brand new pair and climbed a slabby route with them out of the box. By the top I was screaming in pain. A month later they were broken in enough that I could climb slabby stuff without wanting to die. I love mine. They're on their second resole.
(This post was edited by currupt4130 on Dec 7, 2009, 7:58 PM)
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shoo
Dec 7, 2009, 8:28 PM
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onrockandice wrote: Tight but comfy maybe a little pain at first? Where-as I can pull a pitch or two before the dogs are screaming?
That's usually the sweet spot I aim for with most new shoes.
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pfwein
Dec 7, 2009, 8:44 PM
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caughtinside wrote: onrockandice wrote: The problem is that I cannot edge, backstep, pocket very well at all. Yep, that sounds like the mythos.
In addition to those problems, they don't smear very well either. But otherwise, they are great shoes, among the very best. (Very comfy, good in all cracks, great in thin (but not super thin) cracks)
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jeffwalker
Dec 7, 2009, 9:10 PM
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i wear a size 10 running shoe yet buy the miura in size 39 (i know, ouch). i tend to size them really tight because in my experience they stretch out and i want them to fit really well In reply to: once the sole wears down a bit. they are somewhat insensitive when new, but a bit of wear makes them perfect. they break in after i sweat in them a couple of times and are the best fitting shoe i've used. every time i need new shoes i try on lots of different ones but keep coming back to the lace-up miura.
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onrockandice
Dec 7, 2009, 11:55 PM
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Oddly I got a 43 in the miura and let me tell you. They are a tad painful. Smearing in them is kind of hard but everything else is awesome. I can put them on a dime and park right there with no effort at all. There's a lot of pressure on my toes but they really hold.
So I probably have the right size I'd guess. They will stretch a bit in time and I'll probably adjust to them too.
Does it sound about right if smearing is the one truly painful thing or should I size up? I can probably wear these for about 15 or 20 minutes before I start to hurt.
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MS1
Dec 8, 2009, 12:12 AM
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I sized mine tight enough that I wanted them off immediately after a single pitch. After a month or so, they became very comfortable (I can wear them for about an hour or two before I start to notice discomfort) and they edge like a dream. So if your goal is an edging shoe I'd size them tighter than you think reasonable and let the stretching do its magic.
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jeffwalker
Dec 8, 2009, 1:02 AM
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painful for smearing when new but once you wear them a few times they stretch out a bit and make more room for your toes. by the time they are on the second resole they are a really comfy shoe but lose a bit of the edging precision.
like i said, i keep trying on other shoes but always end up buying the miuras.
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DaveCummings
Dec 8, 2009, 1:10 AM
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I have size 43.5 Sportiva boots and approach shoes. I wear a 40.5 in all sportiva climbing shoes. I like them tight but most sportiva shoes stretch pretty well.
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onrockandice
Dec 8, 2009, 4:08 AM
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Okay. I'm going to trust you guys and keep what I have. They do hurt and I can just barely press them down for a smear but I do bet they'll get better in time. So I'll keep them.
I love the shoe. Nothing like it in the world.
Thanks a ton for the advice people. Stuff like this is when RC shines. Props to all of you.
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currupt4130
Dec 8, 2009, 4:29 AM
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jeffwalker wrote: painful for smearing when new but once you wear them a few times they stretch out a bit and make more room for your toes. by the time they are on the second resole they are a really comfy shoe but lose a bit of the edging precision. like i said, i keep trying on other shoes but always end up buying the miuras.
I sat down in Waterstone (the gear shop at the NRG if you don't know) for about an hour one day trying on shoes. Nothing else fits like a Miura to me either.
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onrockandice
Dec 11, 2009, 5:31 AM
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So I sized these on a wing and a prayer. The local shop will not honor returns for size issues. So I patiently went through the motions. I wear a 43 in the Mythos and now it's like a street shoe though it wasn't at the start. The Miura VS when held next to my mythos is dead 1/2" shorter for the same size. I put on a 42.5 and tried to toe off the shoe sizing stool (that ramp off the front). It hurt and I wanted off fast. I put the 43 on. Did the same thing and it hurt almost as bad. Tried the 43.5 and my left foot is bigger than my right by a full size. I had some gapping over my toes on my left foot. So I went back to the 43 and the salesman a self-acclaimed comp climber felt dead set that the 43 was the right shoe.
First day at the gym I could hardly keep them on. Jug climbing and backstepping only. 2nd day was not much better. 3rd day... who knows maybe neuropathy was taking over and killing my toes.
Today though, they were still painful but man I could crank in them. The Miura VS is not a shoe it's an experience. I swear to gawed some dude walked up and said, "Dude I saw you climbing the other day and today something looks different." I felt stronger and I've been working hard on a 5.12 project that is jibs and all jibs at that and really balancy too. I floated it. While I still found some of the dime edge pockets a bit painful man it was amazing.
The Miura VS is so where it's at. I love this shoe. Of course I have to be honest. I put the Mythos back on and as much as they have stretched I really think diving flippers would be an upgrade.
Seriously though. Lot's of people coming up and saying, "That shoe is not for real. It climbs like nothing else doesn't it."
I'm sold. If I wasn't such a crappy climber I'd love this shoe so much more but at this point the shoe is just waiting for me to catch up. It's a beautiful thing.
- Overhung : hike it
- jib jab : hike it
- dime edge : you mean that wasn't a step stool?
- Toe hook : unreal, you really feel it grabbing and as you weight it things come together so tight.
- Heel hook : nuff said
- Pockets : Don't quite know yet. Still in pain.
Honestly there is nothing this shoe doesn't improve over any other shoe. The 4mm rand though thick and stiff is surprising conductive. I can feel a lot through the shoe. I feel way more connected to be sure.
Summary: Buy them tight. So tight you want them off badly in 5 minutes and (in the store) standing on your toes just isn't going to happen. Within a few climbs you'll build stock in these things.
It's an experience. The velcro cranks down way more than any lace system ever. Across the toe you can angle the velcro to increase torsion for edging or pull it back for smearing. Beautiful thing.
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minibiter
Dec 11, 2009, 5:57 AM
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onrockandice wrote: So I sized these on a wing and a prayer. ... Beautiful thing.
You think that's great. I've been climbing in the VS for a year and a half and give them the same kind of review.
I demo'ed the Cobra one day for shits and giggles... holy crap I felt like i had traded feet with a gecko!
The Cobra's not even partially lined so it'll stretch like crazy. The VS'es didn't really stretch so much for me, they more of broke in.
Congrats on the new shoes.
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