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caughtinside
Dec 8, 2009, 5:26 PM
Post #1351 of 1722
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: jakedatc wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: jakedatc wrote: cracklover wrote: jakedatc wrote: fairly standard gunks rack. will eventually fill in doubles in a few sizes. (more slings on my sport rack not shown)  Looks perfect as-is, aside from obviously needing more slings, and probably a few more nuts. Then again, if you don't carry hexes, it might be handy to carry a few doubles in cams. GO i have 2 more long slings on the sport rack.. so thats 7 total which isnt bad.. plus i'd carry 4-6 sport draws. I have hexes 8-11 that need to be reslung but i've heard mixed reviews on hexes at the gunks. I have the 8 on there now as a nut tool hammer and random back up piece/sling dmm aluminum offsets in the middle sizes would be my next passive addition. I'm amazed by how many people I see that carry the hex hammer on them at all times - especially when on single pitch or little 2 pitch routes. Do you really feel it's worth it? weights about nothing, doesn't get in the way, is nice to have when you do need it. I just got them so i haven't had one to use in a while so we will see. Yeah, it doesn't weigh or take too much space... but i could put another set of small stoppers in it's place that might save my ass. That said, I admit they work damn well at getting stuff out for such a small size. All the same, I find it best to simply climb with someone who carries one.
I just use a camalot. 1 or 2 works best. some people freak out when they see you using a cam as a hammer, but you don't need to hit things very hard. Just a good metal on metal tap to unseat the stuck piece.
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dr_feelgood
Dec 8, 2009, 6:09 PM
Post #1352 of 1722
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sungam wrote: [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4393;[/image] From what I've heard I guess the recommendation is to stop climbing trad on shotty onterrible limestone... Unless it's the Monument, cuz that thing looks fukken sweet.
cbd!
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cracklover
Dec 8, 2009, 6:40 PM
Post #1353 of 1722
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jakedatc wrote: cracklover wrote: jakedatc wrote: fairly standard gunks rack. will eventually fill in doubles in a few sizes. (more slings on my sport rack not shown) [image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v115/Socjake/SDC10322.jpg?t=1260288115[/image] Looks perfect as-is, aside from obviously needing more slings, and probably a few more nuts. Then again, if you don't carry hexes, it might be handy to carry a few doubles in cams. GO i have 2 more long slings on the sport rack.. so thats 7 total which isnt bad..
Actually, at the Gunks, unless you're climbing on doubles, I'd consider that too few. If the dogbones you're substituting in are the kind on floppy thin spectra, they're an acceptable substitute for as many as four slings, but on any long (120'+) pitch at the Gunks, as a fairly new leader, you're going to place probably 12-14 pieces, nearly all of which should have a runner of some kind.
In reply to: I have hexes 8-11 that need to be reslung but i've heard mixed reviews on hexes at the gunks. I have the 8 on there now as a nut tool hammer and random back up piece/sling
I wouldn't bother to carry them on climbs over 5.8 at the Gunks unless you're a hex-lover. Under 5.8, they can be extremely useful.
In reply to: dmm aluminum offsets in the middle sizes would be my next passive addition.
Cool! I used a second half-set of standard shaped ones, but I can imagine that offsets would work just as well, while providing some additional placements.
GO
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Arrogant_Bastard
Dec 8, 2009, 6:50 PM
Post #1354 of 1722
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jakedatc wrote: dmm aluminum offsets in the middle sizes would be my next passive addition.
Don't bother, it's been scientifically proven that the #9 is completely unplacable. I wouldn't be surprised if the other are useless too.
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cracklover
Dec 8, 2009, 6:58 PM
Post #1355 of 1722
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: jakedatc wrote: dmm aluminum offsets in the middle sizes would be my next passive addition. Don't bother, it's been scientifically proven that the #9 is completely unplacable. I wouldn't be surprised if the other are useless too.
^^^ inside joke.
GO
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currupt4130
Dec 9, 2009, 1:49 PM
Post #1356 of 1722
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jakedatc wrote: fairly standard gunks rack. will eventually fill in doubles in a few sizes. (more slings on my sport rack not shown) [image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v115/Socjake/SDC10322.jpg?t=1260288115[/image]
How do you like them Dovals? Looks like a fairly standard rack for most places on the east coast to me.
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sethg
Dec 9, 2009, 2:17 PM
Post #1357 of 1722
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I wish I had the guts to climb with a rack that small. I bring about five more cams, often an extra red & pink tricam, and a bunch more alpine draws.
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currupt4130
Dec 9, 2009, 2:29 PM
Post #1358 of 1722
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sethg wrote: I wish I had the guts to climb with a rack that small. I bring about five more cams, often an extra red & pink tricam, and a bunch more alpine draws.
If I'm on a route that I have no idea what to bring I'll usually bring more. But the guy that got me into climbing with gear had about that for a rack. His theory was "Wait til you absolutely can't go any further without hitting the ground and place a piece."
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jakedatc
Dec 9, 2009, 3:47 PM
Post #1359 of 1722
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Not a fan of the Dovals.. I'd trade them if you are interested.
I spent a week at the gunks climbing on a rack about the same size as mine a few weeks ago with only an extra blue TCU, extra half set of nuts and half set of offset nuts and a #4 camalot and never felt like i couldn't get anything in where i wanted.
i also trad lead pretty far below my sport redpoint so i place my fingers as pro when needed. plus 9 cams.. 3 tri cams, then nuts.. can get quite a bit in. plus the gunks have a lot of belay trees.
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currupt4130
Dec 9, 2009, 4:15 PM
Post #1360 of 1722
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No I have no desire to own any dovals. I have two that I use for my hammock. I was just wondering, they seemed to be a hot commodity in the "least favorite gear" thread.
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jakedatc
Dec 9, 2009, 4:22 PM
Post #1361 of 1722
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yea.. i made an uninformed woops when i got a bunch of used ones on the cheap. having 2 on your only 2 long draws for sport climbing =fine.. many for racking or slings.. not so good. They will be fine for now until i get new ones to replace them but they definitely not by choice anymore.
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cleethree
Dec 9, 2009, 10:57 PM
Post #1362 of 1722
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alright i'll bite.
here's my starter trad and sport racks. i started building this spring and i know i'm still missing stuff. let me know what you guys think.
i can't figure out how to embed the photos so i had to attach them...
(This post was edited by cleethree on Dec 9, 2009, 11:00 PM)
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jakedatc
Dec 10, 2009, 12:03 AM
Post #1363 of 1722
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cleethree wrote: alright i'll bite. here's my starter trad and sport racks. i started building this spring and i know i'm still missing stuff. let me know what you guys think. i can't figure out how to embed the photos so i had to attach them...
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subantz
Dec 10, 2009, 12:13 AM
Post #1364 of 1722
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cleethree wrote: alright i'll bite. here's my starter trad and sport racks. i started building this spring and i know i'm still missing stuff. let me know what you guys think. i can't figure out how to embed the photos so i had to attach them...
Cause they rock on the rock. HUH
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Arrogant_Bastard
Dec 10, 2009, 12:17 AM
Post #1365 of 1722
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You should break down a couple of those draws and put the biners on your cams.
And will you A-cup gear owners stop stuffing your rack with shoes to try to make it look bigger.
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caughtinside
Dec 10, 2009, 12:30 AM
Post #1366 of 1722
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: And will you A-cup gear owners stop stuffing your rack with shoes to try to make it look bigger.
he has a point! also, no headlamps please.
And having the most expensive draws with no grigri is a dab too.
but it looks pretty good.
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jakedatc
Dec 10, 2009, 12:50 AM
Post #1367 of 1722
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yea.. this is a rack thread not gear closet
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Arrogant_Bastard
Dec 10, 2009, 1:06 AM
Post #1368 of 1722
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I have no idea what's going on here, but it's r0ng.
Are those just doubles all bunched up? They look huge. Put those things on a single biner, or better yet a locker, then take those 4 biners you just freed up, plus the two loner ones, and give your poor cams their own clip.
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ingrahamd
Dec 10, 2009, 6:15 AM
Post #1369 of 1722
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sungam wrote: climbingtrash wrote: ingrahamd wrote: Here's my little beginner rack, I've only been into trad for a few months so I'm proud of it. Should note that I have more BD stoppers that are not in the picture. Any recommendations...I climb on shotty Ontario Limestone, so I feel more inclined to load up on hexes and stoppers next over the cams, although they are sure to follow... [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4393;[/image] For shotty OnTrashy0 Limestone I'd recommend a drill and bolts.  I dunno, this dude is a f*cking badass. Might morphin' POWER RAAAANNNNNGGGGGEEEEERRRRRRR
NO DOUBT! That gets a laugh and a comment every time I open my pack at the crag.
Tired of keeping your rack in the bottom of your bag? Dig up a pillow case from your youth!!
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cleethree
Dec 10, 2009, 1:54 PM
Post #1370 of 1722
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: I have no idea what's going on here, but it's r0ng. Are those just doubles all bunched up? They look huge. Put those things on a single biner, or better yet a locker, then take those 4 biners you just freed up, plus the two loner ones, and give your poor cams their own clip.
they're doubles halved then trippled. sometimes routes really wander, so i'd rather extend more than 2 ft.
and don't worry guys, i should be getting some more spirits to rack with for xmas.
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jakedatc
Dec 10, 2009, 3:03 PM
Post #1371 of 1722
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cleethree wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: I have no idea what's going on here, but it's r0ng. Are those just doubles all bunched up? They look huge. Put those things on a single biner, or better yet a locker, then take those 4 biners you just freed up, plus the two loner ones, and give your poor cams their own clip. they're doubles halved then trippled. sometimes routes really wander, so i'd rather extend more than 2 ft. and don't worry guys, i should be getting some more spirits to rack with for xmas.
yep.. take the double put it on one biner. fold it up a few times and twist then clip back in to the loop. like the blue one between the draws and the red sling
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Arrogant_Bastard
Dec 10, 2009, 5:05 PM
Post #1372 of 1722
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jakedatc wrote: cleethree wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: I have no idea what's going on here, but it's r0ng. Are those just doubles all bunched up? They look huge. Put those things on a single biner, or better yet a locker, then take those 4 biners you just freed up, plus the two loner ones, and give your poor cams their own clip. they're doubles halved then trippled. sometimes routes really wander, so i'd rather extend more than 2 ft. and don't worry guys, i should be getting some more spirits to rack with for xmas. yep.. take the double put it on one biner. fold it up a few times and twist then clip back in to the loop. like the blue one between the draws and the red sling
I usually keep one on my harness like that, but I probably use it more for an anchor than I ever do on route. You can usually tell from the ground if you'll need a double, in which case I clip a biner to it, wrap it over my shoulder, around my back, and under my arm, then clip the biner back into it. Easy access, no unwinding mid-route.
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suprasoup
Dec 10, 2009, 5:12 PM
Post #1373 of 1722
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sungam wrote: climbingtrash wrote: ingrahamd wrote: Here's my little beginner rack, I've only been into trad for a few months so I'm proud of it. Should note that I have more BD stoppers that are not in the picture. Any recommendations...I climb on shotty Ontario Limestone, so I feel more inclined to load up on hexes and stoppers next over the cams, although they are sure to follow... [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4393;[/image] For shotty OnTrashy0 Limestone I'd recommend a drill and bolts. I dunno, this dude is a f*cking badass. Might morphin' POWER RAAAANNNNNGGGGGEEEEERRRRRRR
Yeah but he's missing the Pinkie and the Red!! EPIC FAIL!!!
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tradrenn
Dec 11, 2009, 5:48 AM
Post #1374 of 1722
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ingrahamd wrote: Any recommendations...I climb on shotty Ontario Limestone, so I feel more inclined to load up on hexes and stoppers next over the cams, although they are sure to follow.
More Hexes and Stoppers is definitely a good idea considering where you climb. The thing that you should know and understand is that Ontario's Limestone Trad is shit comparing to most other climbing locations, but there is one amazing thing about climbing on gear in Ontario.
Ontario's trad will teach you how to climb on passive gear and that is the skill that you can use almost everywhere else that you might climb later.
For example:
#1. If your nut craft is like it should be, you can go to the Gunks and protect most classic routes with nuts, small cams, such as Aliens (Black to Red) and few bigger cams such as Camalots, #.75 to #3 (that would be my personal choice.) + few tricams and you are good to go. That basically means that your rack is light and you can climb quick most moderates up there.
#2 On my recent visit to Lovers Leap, in California, I had an opportunity to lead route called "the line - 5.9", unfortunately for me I spoke out loud about it and some "good fellow" tells me that a start might be hard because you can either use the hold or plug a small cam, which will make it safe or you have to run it out for the first 30 to 40 feet. I didn't say much to the guy, but I was thinking: WTF ? Next morning I warmed up on "the line" and I was thinking in my head: WTF was that idiot talking about ?
My point here is that once you learn how to climb on nuts it will stay with you forever, and you can only benefit from it, more than any young jedi climbing mostly on cams and calling themself a trad climber will.
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ingrahamd
Dec 11, 2009, 6:06 AM
Post #1375 of 1722
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I can't agree with you more on the passive gear! Even though it's only been a little while since I started, I'll take a solid nut over a cam anyday! haha
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