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code08
Oct 15, 2009, 7:04 PM
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Registered: Apr 2, 2009
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I actually just got some of those real sandstone ones and they are pretty cool. The guy makes them to your order basically just email him about it and he'll try to get you the type/size of rocks you want. They are real rock and I've had some of them chip on me but other than that they work fine. You need to have tapered bolts to use them.
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jetescamilla
Oct 15, 2009, 7:51 PM
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Registered: May 3, 2006
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Thanks Code, I will be sure to get some tapered bolts should I order some of those sandstone ones.
How long have you been climbing on those? Have you set these up for some roof routes? if so, how do they hold up in direct tension?
(This post was edited by jetescamilla on Oct 15, 2009, 7:52 PM)
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sidepull
Oct 15, 2009, 8:30 PM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
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As someone who has built a home training wall (and is building a second one now) I would advise against buying either of those holds. Why? Because they look about as UNfriendly to tendons as possible. With small boards, you need to have the most tendon friendly holds you can have because you'll be using them more frequently (compared to a gym where you might touch a given hold once in a session).
If you're looking for awesome holds at a more than reasonable price that are also very tendon friendly, check out (in order of my preference = low price x high quality):
http://www.synrockholds.com/
http://atomikclimbingholds.com/
Threeball climbing also often has holds for sale on ebay.
*edited to fix links
(This post was edited by sidepull on Oct 16, 2009, 12:41 AM)
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jetescamilla
Oct 16, 2009, 12:16 AM
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Registered: May 3, 2006
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I am have never built my own wall before and aside from the engineering side of it I am completely ignorant, so excuse my questioning if it comes off bad. My only other experience with indoor holds comes from my gym experience.
How exactly are the holds in question bad for your tendons? Is it because they appear to be somewhat sharp or jagged? I would imagine that as an outdoor climber you would want to practice on the most similar thing to real rock as opposed to smooth surfaces.
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CrazyPetie
Oct 16, 2009, 12:44 AM
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Registered: Mar 31, 2008
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I agree these holds dont look too tendon friendly, Why? The first link looks like they are all 2-finger pockets, and the sandstone holds look like they are pretty crimpy. Dont get me wrong, you want to have some 2-finger pockets and small crimps, but not exclusively. I have built two walls and know from experiance its very easy to get injured when you have acess to it any day you want. I started out with a general set of hold from 3-ball climbing, it pretty much came with everything i needed. Then i've been adding So Ill holds for some variety.
I would recomend the 3-ball climbing starter set, it has a large variety of holds for just about any angle of wall. The So-ill holds are a little rough on the skin, but that can be a good thing once you're used to it.
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sidepull
Oct 16, 2009, 12:56 AM
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No problem. It's great question, especially if you don't know the answer.
Yes, holds that you encounter on real rock are often unfriendly to your tendons. But it's rare that you have an entire route full of holds that are all tendon tweakers. In other words, you'll encounter a variety of holds. Some of these holds would be fine to hang on all the time, others would put you hand in positions and force your tendons into angles that increase stress and thereby increase the likelihood of injury. This becomes more problematic on small, indoor/home walls because you'll end up climbing on these holds more often. So you'll be creating micro-trauma that, in aggregate leads to big injuries. In contrast, the micro trauma created by climbing outside doesn't aggregate as quickly because you encounter a greater variety of holds.
Here's another way of thinking about it. Say you five potentially injurious holds on your wall. The likelihood is that you'll create several different problems that end up using these holds. In contrast, say there are five tweaky holds on a route outside. You'll only use those holds if you climb that route. Moreover, even if the other routes have an equal percentage of injurious holds, there's a high likelihood that they'll be shaped differently. In sum, outside, there's a lot more variety. On a home wall, not so much. It's much easier to get overuse injuries on home walls. So you need to be very careful what you buy. Similarly, you need to be very careful about your home wall climbing routine to ensure that you're building variety into your training routine.
Make sense?
I'm sure others could step in and explain the exact physiology of tweaky holds. This might help give you some background, although there are debates about the treatment suggested:
http://www.nicros.com/...A2_pulley_injury.cfm
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freezeus
Dec 18, 2009, 1:27 PM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2009
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http://rockymountainclimbinggear.com/id77.html
We ordered the 10 piece sample pack from these folks just to check it out and are very impressed. For $6 plus shipping we got ten holds, everything from crimps to decent sized full hand jugs. They are heavy and feel almost like river washed stone. Definitely appear to be great holds...I'll let folks know how they hold up.
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Hennessey
Dec 21, 2009, 12:53 PM
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Registered: Dec 3, 2007
Posts: 595
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I just finished my wall and went with So Ill holds. They are sweet holds in interesting designs set at a great price. Start out with the Starter kit which is always up on ebay for like 80 bucks.
I bought two lots of holds on Ebay that wound up being crap. They have a CH printed in them and over half of them spin. Shit holds. On the other hand I got a couple of sets of holds on Ebay that turned out to be great
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climbryn
Dec 21, 2009, 6:27 PM
Post #11 of 11
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 31
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I have a bunch of the rockymountainclimbing gear ones, and they truly suck, they are basically blobs of bondo, stunk for 3 weeks, no original shapes, texture is slimy at best, they get wet with sweat, there are lots of killer deals on ebay from actual hold manufactors that use polyurethane and put some thought into there design, the second link looks better but I would have to agree that they look crimpy and there fore bad for the tendons (unless thats what your trying to train) if you get the sand stone let us know how they are, I was considering them myself to use as a filler. To start off your wall you should get a starter kit for one of the larger company's I bought 5 boxes of Metolious kits to get started.
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