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justroberto
Jan 9, 2009, 8:36 PM
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USnavy wrote: But where is the best sport climbing area in the entire USA?
Connecticut.
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churningindawake
Jan 11, 2009, 11:39 PM
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Red rocks has some of the best sport climbing I have ever done!
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okclimbermatt
Jan 11, 2009, 11:48 PM
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My vote goes to Horse Shoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas. I've spent alot of time at Red Rocks and I think the sport is better at HCR. I go to Red Rocks for trad. HCR is a local crag for me so I may be biased. I've also never been to Red River Gorge or Smith Rocks but have heard very good things about both.
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churningindawake
Jan 11, 2009, 11:50 PM
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okclimbermatt wrote: My vote goes to Horse Shoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas. I've spent alot of time at Red Rocks and I think the sport is better at HCR. I go to Red Rocks for trad. HCR is a local crag for me so I may be biased. I've also never been to Red River Gorge or Smith Rocks but have heard very good things about both.
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acorneau
Jan 13, 2009, 2:08 PM
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okclimbermatt wrote: HCR is a local crag for me so I may be biased.
But your profile says you're in Maryland?!?
Where in Arkansas are you?
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jensk
Jan 15, 2009, 4:18 AM
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Best north american sport climbing
Smith Rocks (Oregon)
Red (Kentucky)
Horne Lake (Vancouver Island Canada)
Clark Mountain
Lots of new areas in Mexico!
As for Red Rocks it ain't even the best climbing within an hour of Vegas!
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suilenroc
Jan 15, 2009, 5:13 AM
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...again... Red River Gorge.
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cush
Jan 15, 2009, 4:40 PM
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i'm surprised rumney hasn't been mentioned once in this entire thread
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captainstatic
Jan 16, 2009, 7:13 PM
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Thanks for all the votes for Red River Gorge. Since it is my home crag I would offer the litany of top climbers who visited last fall, some staying for weeks or even months, as a testament to the fact that the Red is not only one of the top sport climbing areas in the US but also in the world.
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jakedatc
Jan 17, 2009, 9:49 PM
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cush wrote: i'm surprised rumney hasn't been mentioned once in this entire thread
Cuz people are too focused on the other places to think that Dave Graham, luke parody, Joe Kinder, Tim Kemple Jr's "home field" could possibly have tons of good routes.
What Rumney has that alot don't is easy to moderate routes for tons of people instead of starting at .10 + like many things
try to start climbing at Rifle or NRG.. good luck
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jammer
Feb 12, 2009, 12:35 AM
Post #61 of 76
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justroberto wrote: USnavy wrote: But where is the best sport climbing area in the entire USA? Connecticut.
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jammer
Feb 12, 2009, 12:37 AM
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jakedatc wrote: cush wrote: i'm surprised rumney hasn't been mentioned once in this entire thread Cuz people are too focused on the other places to think that Dave Graham, luke parody, Joe Kinder, Tim Kemple Jr's "home field" could possibly have tons of good routes. What Rumney has that alot don't is easy to moderate routes for tons of people instead of starting at .10 + like many things try to start climbing at Rifle or NRG.. good luck
Rumney is absolutely no good! Don't even think about wasting your time here .. I mean, there. 
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suilenroc
Feb 16, 2009, 5:56 AM
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I am so surprised no one has mentioned the RED RIVER GORGE!!!
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ryanb
Feb 16, 2009, 6:50 AM
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Indian Creek.
Though you need these expensive "crack draw" things instead of normal quick draws.
As far as multi pitch sport, there are some alpine sport routes in the cascades but not a ton ... maybe try canadian lime stone?
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USnavy
Feb 16, 2009, 8:21 AM
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jensk wrote: As for Red Rocks it ain't even the best climbing within an hour of Vegas!
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desertwanderer81
Mar 2, 2009, 7:53 PM
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USnavy wrote: camhead wrote: USnavy wrote: Are there any areas in the US known for multi-pitch sport in the 10's range? Redrocks, and if you can get south of the border, Potrero Chico. There is not a single sport multi-pitch in Red Rocks (unless they made one since I was last there 4 months ago). I heavily researched multi-pitch sport in Red Rocks and found that Unimpeachable Groping was the closest thing to multi-pitch sport Red Rocks had and it’s not a sport route. Most of it is bolted but it’s not bolted completely all the way though with a maximum of 10 feet between bolts like a real sport route would be.
Crinsom is almost almost a sport multi-pitch route.....
Anyhow, hands down the best sport crag in the country is the Gunks ;)
Well....I like to think of it as the "Trad Gym" at least.... It's just so forgiving.
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patmay81
Mar 2, 2009, 8:06 PM
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I'm gonna throw out another vote for smith. I do love red rock, but smith is a bit more weather friendly in the spring. even if it does rain (like 1/100" per day), the rock is still cilmbable. There are a few multi pitch sport routes there too.
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desertwanderer81
Apr 29, 2009, 4:47 PM
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nthusiastj wrote: camhead wrote: USnavy wrote: camhead wrote: USnavy wrote: Are there any areas in the US known for multi-pitch sport in the 10's range? Redrocks, and if you can get south of the border, Potrero Chico. There is not a single sport multi-pitch in Red Rocks (unless they made one since I was last there 4 months ago). I heavily researched multi-pitch sport in Red Rocks and found that Unimpeachable Groping was the closest thing to multi-pitch sport Red Rocks had and it’s not a sport route. Most of it is bolted but it’s not bolted completely all the way though with a maximum of 10 feet between bolts like a real sport route would be. hmm. I could be wrong, sorry. I don't remember taking any gear on Prince of Darkness, but I could be wrong. Black Velvet has some multi sport. I think there may be a 5.6 "approach" pitch though.
Yeah, there's actually quite a few routes you can lead with a set of nuts and a rack of quick draws.
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Durin
Dec 12, 2009, 9:27 AM
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Now that Mescalito has been largely bolted by Caldwell, El Cap is definitely the best sport crag out there.
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Hennessey
Jan 4, 2010, 3:51 AM
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churningindawake wrote: Red rocks has some of the best sport climbing I have ever done!
I agree. I like it so much, I go there for at least two weeks a year
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disturbingthepeace
Feb 12, 2010, 10:51 PM
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Durin wrote: Now that Mescalito has been largely bolted by Caldwell, El Cap is definitely the best sport crag out there.
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AltitudeJunkie
Feb 13, 2010, 1:38 AM
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hcr isn't horrible but its about $10 per night or something like that i cant remember for camping. my vote is the red. i moved to kentucky for the climbing out here. its world class!
a lot of people don't like miguels because people are often loud and drunk. but its cheap, central to most climbing areas, close to the beer trailer, and you can get food, a place to crash for pretty cheap, and miguel sells gear. i figure everywhere you go, you experience a different kind of culture within the climbing community. i just embrace it as apart of the experience. its what climbing it that area is like (wherever that area is). plus, ive stayed at miguels several times and ive never had a problem getting to sleep. if you think it might bug you bring an iPod or something.
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Durin
Feb 15, 2010, 5:26 AM
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disturbingthepeace wrote: Durin wrote: Now that Mescalito has been largely bolted by Caldwell, El Cap is definitely the best sport crag out there. Do you have any facts to back this up, or are you just looking to spread rumors about Tommy because he climbs better than you. Quite a statement from an anonymous poser on the internet. Have you ever even climbed El Cap?
Dude didn't you hear? I freed the Shield in October.
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daggerx
Feb 18, 2010, 9:18 PM
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The Red river gorge then the new
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rtwilli4
Mar 2, 2010, 2:58 PM
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dreday3000 wrote: The Red, by and large, is characterized by jug hauls. There are exceptions to be sure, but the combination of soft sandstone and iron ribbons = a lot of jug hauls. Don't get me wrong, I love the Red and have made many a trip there, but I find more variety + technical climbing at the New.
Ditto.
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