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mrtristan
Feb 5, 2010, 11:43 PM
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Just curious. I've never used one myself and have only seen one person use it. Do you? If so (or if not), why? I don't use it just because I really like the figure-8! If it ain't broke, don't fix it...
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johnwesely
Feb 5, 2010, 11:50 PM
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I use a bowline. I use it because it is easy to untie after repeatedly falling on it.
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whipper
Feb 5, 2010, 11:59 PM
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not quite sure what you mean by still....I do sometimes, sometimes not
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suprasoup
Feb 6, 2010, 12:01 AM
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Bowline retrace with a double fishermans. Easy to undo and easy to check. Double- double- double.
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mrtristan
Feb 6, 2010, 12:10 AM
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whipper wrote: not quite sure what you mean by still....I do sometimes, sometimes not
I say still because it seems old school to me :)
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kennoyce
Feb 6, 2010, 12:24 AM
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The double bowline is the best knot for getting untied after a fall, I know plenty of people who use it.
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k.l.k
Feb 6, 2010, 12:25 AM
Post #7 of 45
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suprasoup wrote: Bowline retrace with a double fishermans. Easy to undo and easy to check. Double- double- double.
bingo.
unless it's easy and i'm just tying in w. a bowline-on-a-coil as i do maybe once or twice a year.
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hafilax
Feb 6, 2010, 12:34 AM
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Occasionally. I don't see why you're so attached to the 8.
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rschap
Feb 6, 2010, 12:53 AM
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I use it anytime I’m not doing multi pitch, and then I use a figure 8. I wouldn’t say “still” though, I was thought the figure 8 first and used it for a couple years before I started using the double bowline.
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majid_sabet
Feb 6, 2010, 1:07 AM
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a lot in rescue rigging
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vegastradguy
Feb 6, 2010, 1:11 AM
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mrtristan wrote: Just curious. I've never used one myself and have only seen one person use it. Do you? If so (or if not), why? I don't use it just because I really like the figure-8! If it ain't broke, don't fix it...
many sport climbers- because its easier to untie.
glad you like your knot- but the bowline isnt used because the figure-8 is (or isnt) broke- its a different knot for (usually) a different job.
personally, ive taken to using the double bowline when cragging- its a nice knot if you're untying and tying in alot over the course of the day. on multipitch, i still use the 8 with the yosemite finish.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Feb 6, 2010, 1:43 AM
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mrtristan wrote: Just curious. I've never used one myself and have only seen one person use it. Do you? If so (or if not), why? I don't use it just because I really like the figure-8! If it ain't broke, don't fix it...
Yes, occasionally.
I mostly use it in the gym if I plan to dyno on toprope-- which in my case means falling repeatedly.
One of my partners uses double bowline retraced with double fisherman backup excliusively.
It is good to be familiar with the knot so you can quickly check someone who uses it.
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coastal_climber
Feb 6, 2010, 2:04 AM
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I use a double-bowline for sport climbing only.
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shu2kill
Feb 6, 2010, 4:41 AM
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for those of you who use the bowline, how do you do it??
i saw on 2 magazines, two different ways of doing it. one was to tie a bowline and then retrace it, passing the rope twice through the tie in points. i tie a fisherman's knot to finish it.
and the other way was the bowline with a finishing knot. i actually found the scan of the magazine i originally saw this knot...
http://mx.images.search.yahoo.com/images/view?back=http%3A%2F%2Fmx.images.search.yahoo.com%2Fsearch%2Fimages%3Fp%3Ddouble%2Bbowline%26ei%3DUTF-8%26rd%3Dr1%26fr%3Dyfp-t-706&w=331&h=783&imgurl=netfiles.uiuc.edu%2Fro%2Fwww%2FClimbingClubatUIUC%2Fbowlineknots.jpg&rurl=https%3A%2F%2Fnetfiles.uiuc.edu%2Fro%2Fwww%2FClimbingClubatUIUC%2Fbowline.html&size=24k&name=bowlineknots+jpg&p=double+bowline&oid=9f5824837da1bb2a&fr2=&no=2&tt=663&sigr=120e7u3sg&sigi=11slulevl&sigb=12sj3r7gf&type=JPG
i have been using it for about 3 months, because im falling more now and its easier to untie than the 8 knot. however, i dont know which way is better. i use both of them, mostly the first method, the second one almost only when i have my PAS on the harness.
so, which one do you prefer??
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pendereki
Feb 6, 2010, 5:17 AM
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The scan from a magazine is a cool knot (or finish), thanks for posting that! That seems to turn the bowline into a knot I can trust.
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healyje
Feb 6, 2010, 6:00 AM
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shu2kill wrote: i saw on 2 magazines, two different ways of doing it.
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clc
Feb 6, 2010, 6:26 AM
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I know more people that use the bowline than the figure 8
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rgold
Feb 6, 2010, 6:39 AM
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I've been using bowlines for 51 years, the number of years I've been climbing.
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epoch
Moderator
Feb 6, 2010, 3:06 PM
Post #19 of 45
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I use a bowline with a Yosemite finish. Exclusively.
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MS1
Feb 6, 2010, 3:07 PM
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I mostly tie in using a doubled 8, but I'll use a rethreaded bowline if I expect to fall on it repeatedly.
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dreday3000
Feb 6, 2010, 5:01 PM
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epoch wrote: I use a bowline with a Yosemite finish. Exclusively.
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chrisnovak
Feb 6, 2010, 5:36 PM
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I use the double bowline with back-up a lot - maybe 80% of the time. As with others, mostly for cragging and at the gym, with the retraced figure 8 for multi-pitch/walls...or if someone leaves it in the line and I'm feeling too lazy to untie it when it's my turn to climb.
One other (small) reason to like the double bowline is because you don't have to remember to untie the knot from the line once you're done. That way, there's much less chance of someone (including me) starting to pull the line...and then noticing a knot still in the line when it's 20' off the ground. Of course, I always try to check before pulling the line...but it's one less thing to have to keep track of.
BTW - I think that the top picture is known as a bowline-on-a-bight (p. 123, Climbing Anchors, Long and Gaines, 2006), aka the Atomic Clip. It's useful for using the rope to create an anchor, especially to equalize two bolt anchors. This is a very different application from the double bowline that is used to tie in (as shown in the lower picture).
Chris
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tehbillzor
Feb 6, 2010, 5:44 PM
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typically i use the figure eight, but if i start putting the rope through my harness before tying the figure eight then i just switch to the double bowline.
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granite_grrl
Feb 7, 2010, 1:41 AM
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I use the bowling with a double fisherman's backup pretty much exclusively for rock. I still use a figure-8 when ice climbing 'cause I can't see what I'm doing as well with all my layers on and I feel more comfortable with it.
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ozoneclimber
Feb 7, 2010, 2:18 AM
Post #25 of 45
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For tying in I only use the 8 anymore. With all the buzz about Bowlines coming untied I just don't feel comfortable taking that chance that I might just get tired enough to miss something that I shouldn't have. I still use the bowline for rigging static lines while caving and/or cleaning routes...
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