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ianmeister89
Mar 14, 2010, 7:40 AM
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I don't have a trad rack, unfortunately, but I have heard that Crimson Chrysalis may be bolted enough to attempt as a "sport" route. Are there any pitches with almost no bolts (sub4), requiring crux gear, or entirely devoid of bolted protection? Also, please tell me If you think I'm crazy, or this is not achievable. I'm looking for a little direction here, so anything would be appreciated.
Thanks
-Ian
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j_ung
Mar 14, 2010, 3:21 PM
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ianmeister89 wrote: I don't have a trad rack, unfortunately, but I have heard that Crimson Chrysalis may be bolted enough to attempt as a "sport" route. Are there any pitches with almost no bolts (sub4), requiring crux gear, or entirely devoid of bolted protection? Also, please tell me If you think I'm crazy, or this is not achievable. I'm looking for a little direction here, so anything would be appreciated. Thanks -Ian
How are you with 100'+ runouts?
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marc801
Mar 14, 2010, 3:41 PM
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What he said. 22 protection bolts spread out over 9 pitches, the first occurring on P5.
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jacobbelsher
Mar 14, 2010, 4:42 PM
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instead: climb unimpeachable groping. 5.10A, well bolted. it is also right next door, (to the left i think). or, you could try dream of wild turkeys 10a, same deal. note: i think crimson is overrated anyway. these other routes are better.
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spoon
Mar 14, 2010, 4:59 PM
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You might also consider Prince of Darkness at 5.10b. It's first pitch is naturally protected 5.Easy, followed by bolted 5.10b. I think the third pitch has a section that takes pro but a set of nuts would probably more than cover it and it's not strictly necessary if you don't mind running it out a little.
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btg
Mar 14, 2010, 5:47 PM
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If memory serves me right :/ I think Crimson has at least one bolt about twentyish feet off the deck. But then things get kinda spacy.
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Hennessey
Mar 15, 2010, 5:20 AM
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spoon wrote: You might also consider Prince of Darkness at 5.10b.
Horrable climb. From what I remember It's the same moves over and over again
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flamer
Mar 17, 2010, 2:27 PM
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jacobbelsher wrote: instead: climb unimpeachable groping. 5.10A, well bolted. it is also right next door, (to the left i think). or, you could try dream of wild turkeys 10a, same deal. note: i think crimson is overrated anyway. these other routes are better.
Unimpeachable Groping is about as close to a pure Multi pitch sport route as you can get in RR.
However, it's more like 5.10c/d.
I've done it twice, and both times thought the grade was 5.10+.
I've climbed CC 3.5 times....2.5 as a rope solo. It's a fun route and a lite rack is needed. If you had Nut's and cam's to 2" you'd be fine.
josh
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boadman
Mar 17, 2010, 4:06 PM
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ianmeister89 wrote: I don't have a trad rack, unfortunately, but I have heard that Crimson Chrysalis may be bolted enough to attempt as a "sport" route. Are there any pitches with almost no bolts (sub4), requiring crux gear, or entirely devoid of bolted protection? Also, please tell me If you think I'm crazy, or this is not achievable. I'm looking for a little direction here, so anything would be appreciated. Thanks -Ian
I think the first two pitches would be the only truly dangerous ones. After that you'd be high enough off the deck that the bolts that are there would keep you off the ground. The route isn't worth that much commitment though. Sounds like it's time to invest in some gear!
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mtselman
Mar 17, 2010, 6:22 PM
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Registered: Jan 9, 2002
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ianmeister89 wrote: I don't have a trad rack, unfortunately, but I have heard that Crimson Chrysalis may be bolted enough to attempt as a "sport" route. Are there any pitches with almost no bolts (sub4), requiring crux gear, or entirely devoid of bolted protection? Also, please tell me If you think I'm crazy, or this is not achievable. I'm looking for a little direction here, so anything would be appreciated. Thanks -Ian
Depends on how good you are. These guys: http://www.fishproducts.com/mbs/crimson/index.html did it with just some draws...
Stay safe!
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mtnjohn
Mar 17, 2010, 6:38 PM
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Spoon, CC is NOT over rated.
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