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estwing
Dec 12, 2002, 2:17 AM
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I use a short daisy with a locking biner, but I have seen people who use a full length daisy. Is there any advantage to having this longer sling?
Thanks,
Sam
[ This Message was edited by: estwing on 2002-12-11 18:23 ]
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curt
Dec 12, 2002, 2:20 AM
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Never attack yourself, just take a few deep breaths, and calm down. Practice a little anger management--and be nice to yourself. If you don't love yourself, you can't love another.
Curt
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stewbabby
Dec 12, 2002, 2:22 AM
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attack!
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estwing
Dec 12, 2002, 2:23 AM
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oops
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natec
Dec 12, 2002, 2:26 AM
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A short daisy is cool, there isn't much of an advantage for a longer daisy.
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rmiller
Dec 12, 2002, 2:29 AM
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The rope.
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flamer
Dec 12, 2002, 2:31 AM
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Yes you should always use the rope. Daisy chains are nice to get yourself a comfortable distance from the anchor. BUT you should always tie in with the rope as well!
josh
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climbsomething
Dec 12, 2002, 2:35 AM
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When I thread anchors, or even *gasp! * am on the rare multi-pitch, I attach myself to the anchor with at least 2 pieces- i.e., 2 slings (my method), a sling and a daisy, 2 draws.
I didn't always do it this way, as I was once a gumby among other gumbies who didn't consider redundancy in personal anchors, but eventually was enlightened by an experienced somebody who thought it was better to teach me than to curse me with Darwin Which is really the preferred thing to do instead of laughing and bastardizing an iconic principle in biology! Was that out loud?
Anyway.
I don't know if sling length matters from a safety point of view, but a shorter anchor will give you less mobility. My personal anchors are made from shoulder length slings, which I almost always find sufficient.
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repete
Dec 12, 2002, 2:38 AM
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The longer daisy just gives you more options, though i just usually use a rope.
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climbsomething
Dec 12, 2002, 2:43 AM
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...and yes, when threading, the rope is on my person too, but my common experience with anchors has been that many are quite small. Explanation here.
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jt512
Dec 12, 2002, 2:48 AM
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Single-pitch sport: either two QDs or two full-length runners, biner gates reversed and opposed on my belay loop.
Otherwise: the rope.
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-12-11 19:01 ]
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petsfed
Dec 12, 2002, 2:49 AM
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I have a dedicated "single and a half" sling that essentially lives girth-hitched to my belay loop. If that's not long enough, then I use a double. And I always backup with the rope, at least with trad, where that's a legitimate option, as opposed to lowering off in sport climbs. For sport I always at least try to anchor some part of the rope to my person so I don't have that awkward moment where I (oops) drop the rope.
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climbsomething
Dec 12, 2002, 2:55 AM
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*...c-something feels like a bit of a heel for going all sporto-answer, even if it's not wrong, when most everyone else is talking about trad*
la la la
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shortfatoldguy
Dec 12, 2002, 2:57 AM
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For multi-pitch: Short daisy off my harness plus a clove hitch on the rope. Two points of attachment, both pleasantly and sensuously adjustable.
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apollodorus
Dec 12, 2002, 3:53 AM
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A little slack to move around on is nice. And you should back up the daisy with a fig-8 in the rope. Or just use the rope.
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stevematthys
Dec 12, 2002, 3:59 AM
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i use a clove hitch and a locking d. my back-up will vary depending on situation.
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nbrown
Dec 12, 2002, 4:49 AM
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Long Daisy chain w/ locking biner.
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petelasko
Dec 12, 2002, 4:55 AM
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Usually use 2 draws. Gets you pretty close, though. Usually isn't a problem. Like others have said, always have 2 points, and that doesn't mean 2 draws in the same quickdraw.
climb safely
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kman
Dec 12, 2002, 8:21 AM
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Daisy chain with locker and a clove hitch on the rope also attached with a locker.
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bmgard
Dec 12, 2002, 8:58 AM
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Take about 8 feet of 6mm cord. Tie it in a loop with a double fishermans. Now take one end and tie a prusike around your finger. Feed the other end of the loop through the prusike. Put a biner in the resulting loop and girth hitch the other side to your harness. Make two of them. Now you have adjustble daisys.
I love this system you can dial it in and be comfortable on about any belay ledge.
The best part is you can always put your foot in where the carabiner is and prusike the other side to the rope for an emergancy ascent system.
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estwing
Dec 12, 2002, 9:13 PM
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A lot of people responded that they used slings or daisies, do you prefer to girth hitch them to your belay loop, or through the tie-in points? Why the preference?
Thanks,
Sam
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mountainmonkey
Dec 12, 2002, 9:31 PM
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I will only use the rope as a tie in on multipitch. At the top of a 1 pitch climb I will either use draws or slings to clip in while I set up the rap. I only use daisy chains for aid and, in my opinion, that is all they are good for.
I have found that it is better to girth hitch the slings through the tie in loops because it frees up your belay loop for when you set up to rap.
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newland
Dec 12, 2002, 10:04 PM
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estwing, Girth hitch it through the tie-in points. Some people will say its safer, but I do it more because its a little more out of the way and you can also clip a little closer if need be.
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maculated
Dec 12, 2002, 10:39 PM
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Clove hitch, long daisy.
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drector
Dec 12, 2002, 11:31 PM
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With a sling-shot type belay, I would use a single piece of whatever I have, runners, quickdraw, climbing rope but I'd opt for redundancy. If the one peice broke, I'd still be attached with the climbing rope with the other guy on the other end but this could be dangerous if I pulled the leader off. A follower is not as serious a problem since he'd get a little tug up. I don't carry a daisychain since it has few other uses on a multi-pitch trad climb.
If I'm belaying off the anchor then I always use the rope or redundant runners. If I'm belaying off my harness, which is rare, then I'd still use the rope or be redundant and I would make sure that my belay device is threaded through the attachment runners/rope to keep from tearing my harness if the other guy falls.
Dave
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