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jcissell
Mar 23, 2010, 6:26 AM
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ok.... so I'm new to the sport and I've read all the faq's and sticky messages you have on the forum plus hundreds of reviews on these specific shoes. But not answer my question.
I bought a pair of evolve defy's over the internet. I don't have any place close to here to look at and try on climbing shoes. I wear a size 8 street shoe and most all reviews I saw at the time said order a half to whole size smaller. I was a little hesitant but my 8 street shoes and hiking boots have a little room so I thought at best the shoe would be snug. So I ordered a 7.5. Besides I have vibram five fingers that are a euro size 40 and fit perfect. These 7.5s say they would be a size 40 also. When I put these on they kill my feet. I can sit on the couch looking ready on the internet for about 10 minutes before I have to take them off. Actually they don't kill both of my feet, just my right. The right foot is scrunched up enough the top of the shoe rubs the tops of my toes and makes them hurt. The left doesn't do this though. Just wondering what some people's opinion is of this?
I've read some reviews that people say they hurt so bad when new they have take them off after every climb.
Thanks in advance.
Josh
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sidepull
Mar 23, 2010, 10:09 AM
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zappos allows you to try things on and send them back (they pretend this is all offered for free, but it's wrapped into the price - the point is, it's convenient for someone in your situation).
I think you misread most of the posts, particularly if you were just looking at those about the Defy. The Defy is a lined shoe - it won't stretch much. Most Evolv's are sized to match street shoe size. So if they're unbearably painful now, I think bought them too small. The best indicator is to put them on and see if you big toe bulges past the rubber on the sole. If so, you need larger shoes. If not, it could be they are tight but that they just don't fit your feet.
Better luck next time.
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jedasmith
Mar 23, 2010, 11:57 AM
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There are many climbers wearing many different types of shoes who take them off after every climb.
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angry
Mar 23, 2010, 12:53 PM
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The Defy isn't a foot crusher. It's best as a snug but comfortable shoe.
It's very thin though, so even synthetic, you do have a chance to stretch it a little.
If it's truly tight though, it's probably just too small.
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edge
Mar 23, 2010, 3:16 PM
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If you are new to the sport, then you need comfortable shoes so that you can focus on technique, not just getting to the next stance so you can take your shoes off.
Evolve shoes are all vegan, and they don't stretch as much as mold to your feet over time. I definitely think you bought them too small.
Also, if only one foot seems super tight, you may have slightly different sized feet. Evolve allows you to purchase different size left and right shoes for a nominal charge; of course you have to know what size you need before purchasing. Something to consider, anyway.
Good luck, stick with it, and look for comfort as you start out.
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tivs
Mar 23, 2010, 3:31 PM
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I wear 43s in fivefingers and 44.5 in the defy. They fit perfectly, in my opinion... a tight and snug fit but not painful. So, perhaps 1.5 up from your vibrams would work better.
Dunno about your different sized feet. Guess you'll have to get different sized shoes, too!
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jcissell
Mar 23, 2010, 5:04 PM
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I called evolve and they told me if I wanted to try I could boil water and let it sit in the shoes for a minute. Then dump the water out and put my feet in the shoes. He said this would stretch them out up to about 1/2 size, but if I bought a size 8 I would probably like them better.
I called steap and cheap (backcountry) and they still had a size 8 in stock. They are sending them out today so I will have them by my rock climbing trip on Friday and they aren't charging me for shipping. I just have to ship the 7.5s back and they will credit my account.
Honestly that's some of the best customer service I've had.
I've had a less than favorable experience with Osprey packs customer service this past month so I'm glad to see some companies try to go above and beyond to make sure people can use the products they buy.
Thanks for the help.
Josh
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edge
Mar 23, 2010, 5:07 PM
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Josh, that has been hard won info for you, and I thank you for passing it on.
Loran
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iowaclimber80
Mar 30, 2010, 2:28 AM
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i am quite surprised by this outcome because i bought my defys a whole shoe size smaller than my street shoes and they fit awesome and once i climb and sweat in them they stretch but if i bring them inside they shrink. I hope your new size works better.
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jcissell
Mar 30, 2010, 3:54 AM
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I got the 8 instead of 7.5 and they are much better. They are uncomfortable but not so painful that I can't stand it. Now I've only worn Merrell shoes for several years now, so unless they run big, my street shoe size is an 8. I have worn 8.5 and 9's in other street shoes but honestly can't say in what because its been so long since I worn anything but Merrell.
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nkane
Mar 30, 2010, 4:11 AM
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jcissell wrote: Honestly that's some of the best customer service I've had. I've had a less than favorable experience with Osprey packs customer service this past month so I'm glad to see some companies try to go above and beyond to make sure people can use the products they buy. Josh
Interesting. I had a great experience with Osprey last summer - a marmot ate the top of my pack at Tahquitz, and they replaced it free of charge and quickly.
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ShyneeThings
Mar 30, 2010, 7:31 AM
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jcissell wrote: I called steap and cheap (backcountry) and they still had a size 8 in stock. They are sending them out today so I will have them by my rock climbing trip on Friday and they aren't charging me for shipping. I just have to ship the 7.5s back and they will credit my account. Honestly that's some of the best customer service I've had. I've had a less than favorable experience with Osprey packs customer service this past month so I'm glad to see some companies try to go above and beyond to make sure people can use the products they buy. Josh
backcountry.com has by far the best customer service for an online company. and it's hard to argue with their unlimited return policy... where else can you go and take a pair of shoes climbing for 4 months, only to determine they never formed to your foot correct... they STILL take your return!
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scottek67
Mar 30, 2010, 10:40 AM
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saw them on steap and cheap for 40 bucks yesterday... lotsa sizes too so they'll be back!
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jcissell
Mar 30, 2010, 2:53 PM
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I ordered them off steap and cheap for $40.
To give Osprey credit, when I spoke to the lady last Monday she said she would note the account. I told her I was leaving Friday morning to go on another trip. She had my hip belt to me on Thursday. Sometimes things fall through the cracks. If a company does its job once that is discovered, they get an A in my book.
I can say the Osprey pack fits me like a dream.
So far I've dealt with Merrell, exped, backcountry, and Osprey, They have all had excellent customer service.
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iron106
Mar 30, 2010, 3:58 PM
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I have had several Defy's. The new model that is out VTR does fit differently. they are about 1/4 to 1/2 a size larger than the older Defy's. Granted they are not $40 anywhere now.
I have also had awesome customer service with Evolve. They are a good company.
Good to hear that about Osprey, also.
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gerbil
Mar 30, 2010, 4:36 PM
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edge wrote: Evolve shoes are all vegan, and they don't stretch as much as mold to your feet over time. I definitely think you bought them too small. In reply to: what about the royale? its a leather upper
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